kmead
Old enough to know better
The Fiat Freak Out in Detroit last summer. In Milwaukee this year, you should come.
Tie-downs when trailering
- Thread starter Peter Cecil
- Start date
The Fiat Freak Out in Detroit last summer. In Milwaukee this year, you should come.
Rod Midkiff
True Classic
I am on the left coast (Oregon) Last year we went to the Ashland camping weekend. Looking forward to doing that again.
Being that I work a full-time Job going the distance for fun instead of work does not happen much.
Being that I work a full-time Job going the distance for fun instead of work does not happen much.
kmead
Old enough to know better
I know the feeling. Work keeps me from doing many of the things I really enjoy. Going to the Ashland camping weekend for example.
Peter Cecil
True Classic
I am still considering purchasing a trailer. Any recommendations as to length, ramp lengths, tilting beds etc?
Andy
True Classic
Several years ago I bought a light weight trailer designed to haul ATVs. It turned out to be just too small for the intended load (4 ATVs).
It is 13 x 8 and works perfect for hauling an X 1/9. I added brakes, and had a local shop build some ramps for me.
I helped a friend move an Subaru Outback once, I had to bend the lip of the fender out so it did not cut the tire, I learned from that to not carry anything heavy on it. I do haul 124, X 1/9, 128, fequently with no issues.
No need for a big heavy tailer is all you are looking to move is an X 1/9.
I had D rings welded to the corners of the tariler and use chain to tie the car down in the rear. Front is tied down with a come-along. Certainly over kill, but the car will never come off that trailer unless I remove the chains.
It is 13 x 8 and works perfect for hauling an X 1/9. I added brakes, and had a local shop build some ramps for me.
I helped a friend move an Subaru Outback once, I had to bend the lip of the fender out so it did not cut the tire, I learned from that to not carry anything heavy on it. I do haul 124, X 1/9, 128, fequently with no issues.
No need for a big heavy tailer is all you are looking to move is an X 1/9.
I had D rings welded to the corners of the tariler and use chain to tie the car down in the rear. Front is tied down with a come-along. Certainly over kill, but the car will never come off that trailer unless I remove the chains.
Dan Sarandrea (Phila)
Waitin' On Parts...
As to length and providing enough tongue weight, just remember that the fore to aft center of mass for the X, plus or minus an inch or two, is the square hole for the tire jack. If you can get that square say a foot or so ahead of the trailer axle centerline, you should have enough tongue weight.
If you are going to tow with a substantial vehicle, then what the trailer is made from is not that important. OTOH, if your tow vehicle doesn't have a lot of capacity, don't waste that limited capacity hauling a heavy trailer, choose one that is smaller yet still handles the car, or choose one made from aluminum to save weight. If you choose one with tire channels vs a continuous flat load floor, make sure the channels are not so high as to rub the chassis during load/unload. Lastly, check the approach angles to see whether you will be able to drive right on, or will have to come up with supplemental ramp material
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Peter Cecil
True Classic
Andy, thanks. My main concern is being able to clear the ramps with the lip of the front air dam.
Peter Cecil
True Classic
Dan, thank you. My desire is an aluminium framed trailer. anything over 13 ft is great but the concern is clearing the ramps with the front spoiler.
Hi Peter,
I bought this trailer a few years ago. It has served me well. It is not aluminum, but this trailer and any one of my Fiats is within the towing capacity of my Honda Pilot. I wanted a full deck, but that added too much weight. Of course, an aluminum rig saves a lot of weight which opens up option, but adds a lot of cost. I couldn't make the leap to the aluminum rig's price. I am cheap.
An X1/9 fits on this trailer really well. The builder will narrow the distance between the ramps and drop the fenders a few inches for you. I can open the driver's door over the fender well with at least 2" of clearance. My 124 sedan requires a little bit more care in placing the weight on the trailer, but when properly positioned, it tows very well.
TonyK
True Classic
The reason I load my car on backwards on my 13' trailer is because of tongue weight. With the engine in the back of the car I need more weight on the front of the trailer.
Also when loading I leave the trailer connected to the truck and lower the trailer jack to put the bed of the trailer on an angle. With the stock ramps the front spoiler does not have issue with scrapping the ground.
TonyK.
Grimsby Ontario Canada.
Also when loading I leave the trailer connected to the truck and lower the trailer jack to put the bed of the trailer on an angle. With the stock ramps the front spoiler does not have issue with scrapping the ground.
TonyK.
Grimsby Ontario Canada.
Peter Cecil
True Classic
Tony, thank you. Loading, back end first is a good idea. I take it you have no issues with wind trying to lift the Targa top by the lip at the back. This has been mentioned here before.
Rod Midkiff
True Classic
also make sure all your other hatches are latched as well. their are 4 things that could go VERY bad with rear towing an X1/9. But if they are all latched well should be ok.
Warren Smith
Wazza
As far as tying down a car on a trailer, we subscribe to the method where it is tied down to the wheel or to suspension arms close to the wheel. If you can't get a strap through the wheels, then a strap over the top of the wheel is the best method. My son and I have been towing a multitude of cars for around 20 years with a lot of our trips being long distance and we have never put an X1/9 on backwards. Apart from the risk of losing the roof, the back window is vertical and acts like a parachute!
Our current trailer has steel mesh runners so our ratchet straps go over the top of the tyre (tire), and the hooks go into the mesh vertically. If you get the type of ratchet straps that have an extra mid-strap hook that can slide along the strap, then the ratchet can be placed horizontally along the deck and easily tightened down. The car will not move and I don't know about in the States, but here in Australia, the big car carrying trucks use this method.
FYI, years ago we welded a hook onto the body of our home made special, and the result was that on a trip, with all the suspension movement and the car bouncing up and down, it ripped this hook off the car. We've never tied a car down via the body since.
As for the best type of trailer, my son has one on order that he should get in a few weeks called a Race King trailer. It has no ramps and you just hydraulically lower the whole trailer to the ground and drive onto an almost flat deck. You then pump it up to normal ride height. No issues with front spoilers.
Our current trailer has steel mesh runners so our ratchet straps go over the top of the tyre (tire), and the hooks go into the mesh vertically. If you get the type of ratchet straps that have an extra mid-strap hook that can slide along the strap, then the ratchet can be placed horizontally along the deck and easily tightened down. The car will not move and I don't know about in the States, but here in Australia, the big car carrying trucks use this method.
FYI, years ago we welded a hook onto the body of our home made special, and the result was that on a trip, with all the suspension movement and the car bouncing up and down, it ripped this hook off the car. We've never tied a car down via the body since.
As for the best type of trailer, my son has one on order that he should get in a few weeks called a Race King trailer. It has no ramps and you just hydraulically lower the whole trailer to the ground and drive onto an almost flat deck. You then pump it up to normal ride height. No issues with front spoilers.
Peter Cecil
True Classic
G'day Warren, thanks for the feedback. I have seen video of the type of trailer that you have on order. It is a very practical concept. I am with you about securing the car around the tyres. On a move, when we lived there, from Melbourne to the Sunshine Coast, jus north of Brizzie, the truckie looped his tie-downs around the top portion of the tyre and then attached the hook to the strap running up to the tyre. He then ratcheted the straps really tight. Again, thanks.
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Rod Midkiff
True Classic
the Truck's that transport new cars are mostly going to the tire tie down as well. When they were tieing the body down they were pulling them tight enough to bottom the suspension down (before the tire tie down method they were doing a LOT of damage)
MikeHynes
True Classic
Can you recommend a tire tie down that will fit a tire that fits a Fiat? The only ones I've seen are way too big to clamp the tire down (145/80 -13 for example)
bpimm
Brian Pimm
If you go with something like this it's adjustable and fits any tire, I went this way after finding the same thing you are, they're all to big.
It also keeps the ratchets out away from the car for easy use, you do need a center tie point on the trailer. It also offers complete tiedown without reaching or crawling under the car, just flip the strap behind the wheel, adjust then tighten it down.
The straps came from a company called truck n tow, they were the only place I found the short axle straps without steel rings.
https://www.truckntow.com/auto-haul...-eyes-3-300-lbs-safe-working-load-2-x-22.html