To rust repair or not to rust repair

Ananda

True Classic
took the X in to my local body shop for his thoughts the rust issues. $7k for a reaspray, 15k for full glass out down to the metal restoration. But his advice was tha the rust wouldn’t get any worse out here in California and don’t worry about it. Here are some pics. I am open to other ideas, short or long term solutions.
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i would ask to another shop, maebe a panel beater instead of a painting shop, looks like your shop is not interested on carry out this kind of job..

dont know the weather in your area: no rain at all? far from the sea? unless you are in a desert, this rust will grow up, not so fast as if the car were in UK, but anyway will go ahead..

for the minor bubbles, you can make a temporary home made repairs (sanding\rust stopper\primer\paint, with small brushes), i made like this on my car in many little spots: so the shop can wait
 
took the X in to my local body shop for his thoughts the rust issues. $7k for a reaspray, 15k for full glass out down to the metal restoration. But his advice was tha the rust wouldn’t get any worse out here in California and don’t worry about it. Here are some pics. I am open to other ideas, short or long term solutions.
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Know the feeling. Just noticed a blister at bottom of windshield by the right hand wiper on my car.

Eighteen years ago I pulled the windshield and cut the bad spots and welded new metal around the frame but knew this day would come.

Oakland is fairly dry but it does rain occasionally and while California dusters are nice you will have to wash the car every once in a while.

Once the slow fire starts it is near impossible to stop with out major surgery.

In my case my X body is so modified that it is beyond any thoughts as a restoration car so when it starts looking bad enough the average admirer notices it I plan on digging out the rash, prepping best I can and filling the hole with good old bondo then trying to match the paint best I can.
Trouble is once you start poking at those spots they tend to grow.

A glass out and welding is the right way but getting the windshield out with out cracking it is always a gamble no matter how careful you are so it is best to have a spare on hand just in case.
 
Pull the windshield, there is no sense in putting a band aid over this problem. When I purchased my X 1979 I knew that the lower windshield area was prone to rust, has to there is a pocket there that holds water. I took masking tape and taped the seam between the trim and the body then at the top of the glass trim poured wax rust proofing around the remaining open part of the trim. ( it took days to fill it) The rust proofing filled the void, cured and I have never had a problem in this area. That was 39 years ago.

TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada.
 
i thought that car body shops in italy where expensive..but 15000 USD to restore a small body like the X, with available repro panels in the market in my book it's crazy..it doesnt make sense ..i'm pretty sure you can found a good and honest panel beater there..once the metal work it's done the respray will be more affordable priced

how it's the rest of the car? did you made a serious inspection under the carpet, undercarrige, struts mounts zone etc?
 
I’m real not worried about recouping expenses, but it bothers me that it would be cheaper to buy a whole new one without rust. Just looked and found a purported rust free one near me for $8800 obo. It is hard to wrap my mind around buying a new car rather than fixing the one I have. I’m a conservationist at heart but logically it seems I should trade up.
The body shop guy mentioned a product that could patch in but it stays black so it would compromise the sweet paint style.
 
i thought that car body shops in italy where expensive..but 15000 USD to restore a small body like the X, with available repro panels in the market in my book it's crazy..it doesnt make sense ..i'm pretty sure you can found a good and honest panel beater there..once the metal work it's done the respray will be more affordable priced

how it's the rest of the car? did you made a serious inspection under the carpet, undercarrige, struts mounts zone etc?

The rest of the car is good, maybe a couple tiny spots but no major bubbles or bad spots. It was taken down to the metal about 13 years ago.
 
You really need to weld in new metal if you are going to fix it. Sanding down and painting over only works if it's really light rust.

If it's on the backs of the panels it will start to bubble up again fairly quickly.
 
That would bother me. Even if you remove the loose paint to prevent moisture pockets & treat the metal with a rust convertor, that would be better than nothing (but kinda ugly). A full-on strip & repair of the windshield frame is obviously required at some point, since you are invested in this car.
 
Have you done some shopping around for other estimates. You won't know if this guy is way out line unless you compare to other shops.
 
concerning the "rust free" priced 8800: keep in mind that the words "rust free" dont get along with the words "old car \ fiat", you should make a good inspection of that car, and often rust is well hidden..if you are confident with the rest of the body of your car, i would save it: i guess that you simply asked to the wrong shop, maybe they prefer working on new cars that it's a different job (replacing parts and panels it's rather different than welding patches), so rather then say to you "i dont want make this job" they tried to discourage you

i often watch vintage enthusiast car websites as retrorides (UK) and oldschool NZ (newzealand): there are guys that bring back to life incredible rotted cars in their shed with a small MIG welder and an hammer: replacing a windshield frame is not that big issue
 
I’m not going to switch cars, I’m hoping this one will get me through the zombie apocalypse. What type of welding would that require? There are welding schools here. Oh I see ghost dancing answered, MIG welding and a hammer, cool.
Meanwhile I’ll ask a few shops and also look for a windshield.
 
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I'd have to consider my overall goals and long term intentions with the car. Are you looking to have a "show car" or just "transportation"? How much total investment have you planned for the car overall and how does the paint cost fit into that? What else does the car need in terms of repairs, improvements, etc - and the associated costs? Is this more than a "car" to you (some people seem to be 'heavily involved' with their X1/9, while to me it is just a heap of parts)? And other such questions. In other words don't lose sight of the big picture.

In particular those estimates sound quite high in my experience, short of a show car result. Shop around; the body/paint industry is a HUGE money maker and the shops are making WAY more profit than you could ever imagine. One of my richest friends started with one body shop, profited enough to open three more, which profited enough to buy a Honda car dealership, which profited enough that he owns a mega yacht, multi multi-million dollar homes, property in other countries, a plane, and on and on. So don't be taken in by their overly priced estimates. It isn't magic what they do - the actual work is typically done by laborers that never had any formal training. I've seen lots of examples where a shop convinced the owner the only way to do it right was to completely strip the car to a bare metal shell and start over at a exorbitant cost - only to end up with a horrible result. Trust me on this - you can get top-level excellent work done for a fraction of those numbers.

That being said, you may decide not to have the car completely redone. Most of the pictures you showed really aren't that bad. They could be ground down, treated, filled, and the paint blended in with many many years of satisfaction. It all depends on your answers to the initial questions - for you, your car, and your personal situation/goals - not mine or anyone else's.
 
Definitely don’t want a show car, just a healthy runner that will stick around for a while so I can learn and have fun.
 
As you look around for estimates, ask the shops if it would be cheaper if you provided a replacement windshield frame and cowl area. If they say yes, talk to Chris O at FiatPlus to see if he has a full windshield cowl and frame. If not, check with MWB. MWB has an upper frame listed now, but they may have more than what is shown on the site. Don't forget shipping costs which could make the idea to repair or replace a wash.

Just FYI, my 85 didn't have windshield rust, but I recently had MAACO finish up some body work and spray the car. They did a nice job and it wasn't $7K. Not even close to $7K. So talk to them if you have a location nearby. It isn't show car work, but it is definitely a decent job for the money.
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Great, I’m obviously a grade “A” rookie so I appreciate the common sense and voices of experience as least as much as the technical knowledge.​
 
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