To rust repair or not to rust repair

As others have said, it's all about what you're after, and sounds like a car for a bit of fun. I'd go with Dr. Jeff's recommendation and that is to grind it down to metal, give it a really good dose of rust converter, let that dry out, then use a good quality filler, as there will be holes (don't be scared, if holes are big, leave the filler a bit longer before applying so its a bit thicker and you'll need to be quick) then several good coats of a rust inhibator primer and then top coat and a clear coat. You should be able to easily source a couple of colour matched cans of spray and touch it up yourself, may not be Shop Finish, but $6,950 cheaper than the $7,000 quoted by the Body Shop.
Also, your local body shop is talking bollocks saying it won't get any worse! As the saying goes, Rust Never Sleeps, and if it isn't going to get any worse in California, then it wouldn't be there in the first place. Trust me, I've had rust removed from a couple of X1/9's and what lies below the surface is a lot worse that what you are seeing. Think of it as a fortunate warning sign and kill it as soon as you can. Once sorted, the golden rule of rust prevention, Wax & Polish, Wax & Polish, Wax & Polish at least once a year. Not only does it keep your pride and joy looking smart, but is the first line of defense against rust.
 
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I'm pulling my windshield, I am just an amateur welder, but with tin snips, I can cut and weld in bit from junkyard cars to get real metal in then lots of grinding and sanding, a little skim coat, and tah dah!! I definitely recommend a basic welding class at the local community college. Also, buy one step up from the harbor freight welder. I ditched mine for the Eastwood and it made me a much better welder!
 
carl said:
In that case you need to join the ranks of rat car owners and just forget about the rust and drive your car till the wheels fall off (I actually had a 124 sedan where one of the wheels did fall off). I think rust is the only thing holding my windshield in place and it didn't cost me anything to do that.
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LOL Carl, unfortunately I think you are right but that wasn’t what I was hoping for.
 
Eugene Harvey said:
As others have said, it's all about what you're after, and sounds like a car for a bit of fun. I'd go with Dr. Jeff's recommendation and that is to grind it down to metal, give it a really good dose of rust converter, let that dry out, then use a good quality filler, as there will be holes (don't be scared, if holes are big, leave the filler a bit longer before applying so its a bit thicker and you'll need to be quick) then several good coats of a rust inhibator primer and then top coat and a clear coat. You should be able to easily source a couple of colour matched cans of spray and touch it up yourself, may not be Shop Finish, but $6,950 cheaper than the $7,000 quoted by the Body Shop.
Also, your local body shop is talking bollocks saying it won't get any worse! As the saying goes, Rust Never Sleeps, and if it isn't going to get any worse in California, then it wouldn't be there in the first place. Trust me, I've had rust removed from a couple of X1/9's and what lies below the surface is a lot worse that what you are seeing. Think of it as a fortunate warning sign and kill it as soon as you can. Once sorted, the golden rule of rust prevention, Wax & Polish, Wax & Polish, Wax & Polish at least once a year. Not only does it keep your pride and joy looking smart, but is the first line of defense against rust.
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Thanks Eugene, appreciate the knowledge!
 
I'm out of touch with repair/restoration costs in this decade but $15,000 seems a bit high. For that type of investment I'd expect an acid dip followed by a primer dip. That's the only way I know of EVER reaching those spot welded areas. They should rotate the car in the acid/primer bath to get all areas.Attached 850 is the next best but still didn't get to ALL areas. Norb McNamara did this once to an Abarth Allemano Spider and relayed all he got back was a bucket of chips.
thumb_1221615337FrankDigioia primer fiat.jpg
thumb_1221615337FrankDigioia primer fiat.jpg
My suggestion is to ask yourself how long will I have the car? Also do I like it enough to where the cost can be considered "therapy."
 

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Frank L. Di Gioia said:
I'm out of touch with repair/restoration costs in this decade but $15,000 seems a bit high. For that type of investment I'd expect an acid dip followed by a primer dip. That's the only way I know of EVER reaching those spot welded areas. They should rotate the car in the acid/primer bath to get all areas.Attached 850 is the next best but still didn't get to ALL areas. Norb McNamara did this once to an Abarth Allemano Spider and relayed all he got back was a bucket of chips. View attachment 17766 View attachment 17766 My suggestion is to ask yourself how long will I have the car? Also do I like it enough to where the cost can be considered "therapy."
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Frank, That 850 is looking very fresh.
$15,000 is a high estimate but this is a super inflated area and a very reputable and small place. The owner is famously gruff and maybe on the moody side. I think he was in a bad mood, I have a feeling when I show up with a windshield and all the fixings he will relax a little. He told me when I first met him that he met his wife in an X1/9. I’m counting on a sentimental feeling to soften his heart.
 
Best of fortune! Painting is incredibly labor/time intensive and also requires an artistic touch. I'm more into bolting stuff on or preparing for the painter.
 
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