Total overhaul project of an 1980 X1

I dont think that Zinc Spraying is the same as Cold galvanization, as you typical use a spraycan with zinc-colour when Cold galvanization.

This project would have been impossible if I did'nt had the space, tools, some knowledge and time, for obvious reason.
Yes you can send it away to a proffesional, but the cost would be far more than the worth of the car, unfortunately, hence not doable (unless you have a lot of money and dont care if you loose big time).
Obviously I will never get repaid for the work involved, but probably, it might even up with the actual money invested.
But, then, there is thw fun-factor, and the satisfying factor, and they are quite important, I think.
 
TomasL said:
Dipping it, I think is a bad Idea, since there are so many cavities with no access, and it would be difficult to drain.
There is however a way, I learned of, called Zinc Spraying, where melted zink is sprayed on the object.
Not to be confuzed with the spray cans.

Zinc spraying - galvanization types - galvanizing process

The zinc spraying procedure is carried out with particular kinds of spray guns that are continuously loaded with zinc wire. This galvanizing process...
www.gimeco.com www.gimeco.com
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I was thinking more of a galvanization process where the zinc is plated electronically. The heat of melted zinc dipping would warp the sheet metal.
 
Warm galvanization is not an option, it will destry the chassis, electroplating will not, however there are to many un-drainable cavities, so, its not an option either. Zink spraying is the, in my opinion, the only viable solution.
 
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The final bits and rust to be sorted.
After this a thorough clean-out, then wash primer, epoxy primer, loads of sealant.
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Seam weld the joints. They're all spot welded, but welding them solid can stiffen things up. It is a necessary move for the spiders if one is going to race them or just want a stiffer chassis, but maybe the x is stiff enough already.
 
Have been experimenting with TIG brazing.
As it transpired, it wasn't that easy, however I'm getting there.
Using CuSi3 rod with pure Ar.
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One screw for the fresh air flap housing is gone, and I need to replace it. Manufactured a fixture, so I can get the new one in correct position.
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Today I have put some sealant in all cavities and then a thick layer of what we here in Sweden call body-coat. An somewhat elastic coating, normally used inside wheel-arcs and on the underside.
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Think this is the last welding job, sort of, still has the A-pillars, ventilation flap and the engine hood to do.
Tomorrow I am beginning to clean it up and prepare for applying washprimer.
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TIG brazing is a useful process. It can be frustrating, but it is useful. To minimize frustration, supply backing gas to the opposite side of those holes when you are trying to fill them in. The bronze oxidizes rapidly at high temperatures, making it flow poorly.

I TIG braze where the situation calls for a low melting filler or where it is cosmetically appealing to use silicon bronze.

There is also aluminum bronze. I have only used it with success on AC. I think the aluminum in it doesn't tolerate DCEN. It is, in my experience, even more sensitive to backside oxidation.
 
Today I was supposed to get the engine up on the engine stand, well that did not work at all.
THe screws holding the gearbox is to short for the engine stand, and furthermore thay are fine-thread M12x1,25, basically unobtanium, at least today.
So, tomorrow I am going to get a couple of standard M12 screws and an M12x1,25 threading die, cut of the existing threads and do new ones.
 
2-K Wach-primer applied. About 3 l used for the body (4.5 l with hardener).
Thursday is going to be an Epoxy-day.
on Friday, we'll it's Midsummer, lots of beer, wine and snaps, Saturday, probably not so funny.
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