Total overhaul project of an 1980 X1

Now, I have created a "puller" for the offending pin-screw
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Finally, got the pistons out, needed to use an 70x70 mm on the top and 30X20 mm wood on the bottom, together with an sledge hammer.

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So, what happens now, I need to do some initial honing in the cylinders, so I can find out how affected they are, and if I need to bore them or not.
If I am boring, I am obviously going to use the largest diameter possible for this engine.
 
Didn't some very light honing with 240 grit stones. Don't think there should be any problems.
I cannot feel anything, so it seems to very light.
However I'm going to take the block and pistons to an specialist.
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If you need to replace the pistons, and you might based on how they had to be removed, then you should bore the cylinders to go with the new pistons.
 
Well, they where remove by wood and a 5 kg sledge hammer, so, yeah, think I need to bore the cylinders and get new pistons.
WHat is the largest diameter possible and availability on pistons to use with a 1500 engine?
 
One thing that always worries me about rust in the cylinders is rust on the rings. When the rings rust they expand. Did the rust expand enough to crack the ring lands on the pistons? I suppose you could do some testing to look for cracks, but is it worth taking a chance on reusing pistons that have been in baldly rusted cylinders?
As for the biggest piston available, you can get pretty much whatever you want if you have them made. Obviously there's a limit to how much you can cut off the cylinder walls, so you cant go crazy. But you should make sure the rings you want to use are available in the size you choose, and that you can get head gaskets that fit. 87mm is a common oversize choice, but you can go larger with the right parts.
 
This with cracking ring-landings/grooves was nothing I had thought about, need to check, thanks.
Guess that I have to find a decent piston supplier, preferably here in Europe.
Thanks for the warning.
 
Sprayed the under side with Body Coating (rust and gravel protection as well as sound reducing)
It turns black, when its dry.
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Got an option to get an engine with gearbox, for aprox $500:-, so, I got it, ovehaueled gearbox (synchro meches and some gears replaced), new clutch, head leveled etc, also got an engine lid for $75:-, think I did a good bargain. (obviously I have translated the amount in SEK to US$)
Also, have removed all paint, to bare metal on Frunk lid, Trunk lid and one door, next dor will commense tomorrow.
 
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