What did you do to your X1/9 today ?

JNewm said:
So in this photo from @Dan Sarandrea (Phila), the bushing has not yet been pressed into the lollipop(?), but everything is in the right order(?):

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On my car the bushing is flush with the lollipop.
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That picture appears to be incomplete. I'm sure it was just to show some assembly work in process. Look at the following picture from that same thread instead. I believe you can see the wavy washer in between the bushing and the lollipop, with things tightened down. At least that's how I'm seeing it:
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If this isn't right then someone please correct us. As has been mentioned there is some question about how the manual illustrates things. But as I said earlier, I think it should be obvious once you have the parts in hand and see where things best fit...the ID of the wavy washer should dictate where it will go.
 
Dr.Jeff said:
After doing a aggressive cooling system flush on one of my X's the lower coolant tubes started to leak. I guess they were on the edge of leaking and the flush opened things up. So I drained the complete system (even removed the engine and all hoses at both ends in preparation for a major restoration project). The car sat parked for awhile before I pulled the tubes out to replace them. When I did a TON of more rust and scale came pouring out. Apparently despite having just been flushed and cleaned, sitting with even a trace of water inside caused that much more new rust to form. These steel pipes are not the ideal material for a car cooling system.
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Yeah, Jeff...
Tim H. was just telling me he always replaces the tubes. Smart. I'm sure these suckers will start leaking juuuust after I get all other systems sealed up and working properly. I ran bore brushes down 'em as far as I could. Flushed front to back several times under pressure. I'm also sure an astonishing amount of crap will show up the first time I charge the system. Block has been cleaned, new thermo housing, cross tube and water pump to install. I'm probably an idiot for not doing the final step (longitudinal tubes replaced), but i'm lazy that way. This is what my driveway looked like... And that was just the first flush!

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Dr.Jeff said:
After doing a aggressive cooling system flush on one of my X's the lower coolant tubes started to leak. I guess they were on the edge of leaking and the flush opened things up. So I drained the complete system (even removed the engine and all hoses at both ends in preparation for a major restoration project). The car sat parked for awhile before I pulled the tubes out to replace them. When I did a TON of more rust and scale came pouring out. Apparently despite having just been flushed and cleaned, sitting with even a trace of water inside caused that much more new rust to form. These steel pipes are not the ideal material for a car cooling system.
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Agreed in regards to the material. But then how long was it supposed to last in the first place? I don’t think these were heirloom pieces intended to be passed on to future generations… :) they had a finite intended life span. All of these cars are well beyond that.
 
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Finally got around to replacing the wrong crank pulley on the b16. It had the ls pulley which is bigger and heavier. Also spun the alt too fast at high rpms. I found a damper that only has the alt belt pulley and fits much better. The ls pulley only left about 1/2 inch clearance between it and the x's frame rail. Now it has over 1.5 inch clearance.

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Odie
 
autox19 said:
Finally got around to replacing the wrong crank pulley on the b16. It had the ls pulley which is bigger and heavier. Also spun the alt too fast at high rpms. I found a damper that only has the alt belt pulley and fits much better. The ls pulley only left about 1/2 inch clearance between it and the x's frame rail. Now it has over 1.5 inch clearance.

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Odie
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Is that pulley only for the alternator? Or will the smaller diameter also affect other components?
 
I have this kind of underdrive pulley on my Ford Probe. It gives you a couple of extra horses. The bad thing is poor charging when idle.
 
Bjorn Nilson said:
I have this kind of underdrive pulley on my Ford Probe. It gives you a couple of extra horses. The bad thing is poor charging when idle.
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The diameter of this one is actually the same size as what is supposed to be on the b16. The pulley I had on it apparently was from a non vtec engine. Output at idle (750 rpm) is 14.2v with the new one. I have a voltage drop above 6k and I am curious if the old pulley over spun the alt. Won't be able to take it for a drive until tomorrow evening to validate

Odie
 
Painted manifolds white.
Maybe 20€ in the bin :D
At least also resurfaced planes that attaches to head
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Dr.Jeff said:
Is that the MIG ceramic spray? I'll be interested to hear how it holds up.
Did you find the manifold surface wasn't flat? Turbo manifolds get very hot and can warp easily.
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Exhaust manifold had ~1mm gap at some point, resurfaced with belt sander. Intake manifold ~0.5 that I shaved with big file.
Head has ~0.04mm gap in the middle, this time I’ll try to give it to professionals this time, not do it myself with sanding paper, because am lazy, not because I think they will make surface more flat :D

Yes that is MIG ceramic spray. Actually it doesn’t come off as easy as remembered, finger becomes a bit white, but I guess this will help a lot. And looks cool :D
Didn’t paint top of the intake because think that it’s need to release heat from there...
 
I have a thought about resurface the head. If the head has a gap in the middle (like yours), that means the head is banana shaped? But if resurfacing it that would cause the cam not to run 100% straight with heavy load on cam bearings as a result? This is just a thought but I couldn't resist Google it, and this is one of the results I got:
Would be interesting to hear other members opinion about this. Resurface or bend back?
 
Repaired the rust in the rocker panel/door threshold on the driver side of my X. Where the factory drilled a hole to affix the weather-stripping it rusted badly enough to not allow the fasteners to hold the weather stripping down. Had to perform surgery and replace with some donor sheet metal from "Rodger". I suck at welding but in this area of the car its good enough and will outlast me. Mission accomplished. Now I have to re-drill the holes, then some slight body work... prime then ready to paint.
 

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Bjorn Nilson said:
I have a thought about resurface the head. If the head has a gap in the middle (like yours), that means the head is banana shaped? But if resurfacing it that would cause the cam not to run 100% straight with heavy load on cam bearings as a result? This is just a thought but I couldn't resist Google it, and this is one of the results I got:
Would be interesting to hear other members opinion about this. Resurface or bend back?
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Because the SOHC cam box is separate from the head, it is less likely to bend "banana" shape at the cam journals. The head would need to be very badly warped to do so. However it can happen; I have one SOHC engine that the prior owner drove so hot it bent the head, cam box, AND the cam. Lots of other major damage to it also, making the head (and the block) unrepairable anyway.

This is a bigger problem for other engines where the head is one piece - no separate cam box - and the cam rides directly in journals in the head (especially ones without real bearings). When those heads warp it does upset the cam journals, and resurfacing the head does not correct them. However I do not believe a warped head can be straightened like that - most likely end up with a much bigger mess.
 
Janis said:
Exhaust manifold had ~1mm gap at some point, resurfaced with belt sander. Intake manifold ~0.5 that I shaved with big file.
Head has ~0.04mm gap in the middle, this time I’ll try to give it to professionals this time, not do it myself with sanding paper, because am lazy, not because I think they will make surface more flat :D

Yes that is MIG ceramic spray. Actually it doesn’t come off as easy as remembered, finger becomes a bit white, but I guess this will help a lot. And looks cool :D
Didn’t paint top of the intake because think that it’s need to release heat from there...
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Please keep us updated on the MIG coating after the engine is running again. ;)
 
Bjorn Nilson said:
I have a thought about resurface the head. If the head has a gap in the middle (like yours), that means the head is banana shaped? But if resurfacing it that would cause the cam not to run 100% straight with heavy load on cam bearings as a result? This is just a thought but I couldn't resist Google it, and this is one of the results I got:
Would be interesting to hear other members opinion about this. Resurface or bend back?
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I would view this as purely internet entertainment. The only place this repair methodology would be considered mainstream is on Youtube.
 
jimmyx said:
I would view this as purely internet entertainment. The only place this repair methodology would be considered mainstream is on Youtube.
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I still have my cylinder head straightening oven and all the fixtures. It will get to 700 degrees. There are forms and wedges and hold downs so you can apply force to untwist a head with heat. I use it mostly for powder coating though
 
BEEK said:
I still have my cylinder head straightening oven and all the fixtures. It will get to 700 degrees. There are forms and wedges and hold downs so you can apply force to untwist a head with heat. I use it mostly for powder coating though
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I think a 700 degree oven is slightly different than some yahoo wielding a 3,200 degree oxy-acetylene cutting torch ;) Oven straightening can actually yield some passable results, although heads with integrated cam saddles are best relegated to the recycling bin if new replacements are still available. Haven't seen an oven in use for many years, but who knows, there must be some out there still using them?
 
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