What did you do to your X1/9 today ?

[Jonohhh]

Were they missing the boots on the e brake system? Whoa.

Yeah. Completely absent .

Considering I live 1000ft from a sand beach and the caliper was always covered in brake fluid from the leak...it was a recipe for disaster. No wonder the left side sticks.

 

[Jonohhh]

I haven’t thought about my brakes yet - is keeping an eye on the fluid level in the reservoir where you start, as basic safety maintenance?

As the pads wear, the fluid level will decrease slightly as the pistons move out- this is normal, but the reservoir should be sized such that the brake fluid level will never reach a dangerously low level given wear alone. Add fluid to the very top with worn pads and you'll get quite the gift when brake fluid goes everywhere down into the cowl upon pushing the pistons back to install new pads.

In my case, the brake fluid level was decreasing because it was exiting the system and ending up on the inside of the right rear wheel. Surprisingly, the leak was so small it didn't squirt or spray whenever braking (even full pressure stops) but it would slowly leak and drain the res- about a 12inch diameter puddle over the course of two days.



I'd definitely check it every week or so on an older car like this.

 

[Dr.Jeff]

I have seen where a worn caliper seal has a slight leak that causes a slow mild leak onto the ground - not a big "spray" with pedal pressure like some leaking hoses can do.

 

[Jonohhh]

I have seen where a worn caliper seal has a slight leak that causes a slow mild leak onto the ground - not a big "spray" with pedal pressure like some leaking hoses can do.

That was the behavior- the leak seemed to be from the parking brake assembly, I assume wherever the rod or whatever it is enters the pressurized part of the caliper.

 

[tvmaster]

If there's a leak on the pressure side, it will squirt out the leak. You will likely not have a solid pedal.
Most likely leak is internal to the MC, pedal sinks, but system does not lose fluid.
External leakage usually bad hose or rusted out line.
Where would it squirt out the caliper?

Like I said, you learn something everyday....lol

 

[tony x19]

What I did today , finish sanding front drivers side fender ,sand blast windshield frame ,and start striping nose

 

[Jonohhh]

Yes....that tool worked great for separating the ball joints and tie rod ends. I actually found the cheaper one ( the black one only $20 Canadian ) worked better on the X as the fork part was a bit thinner. Popped them apart with ease and without damage to them. Some tools may require a bit of grinding to fit better on the X. I actually got lazy and just used it with an impact gun.

Perhaps a US member could recommend one available down there that worked well for them.

There is also this type that might work too :


View attachment 47821

Unless desperate...do not use this type of tool:
View attachment 47822

Usually works...but also usually tears the boot.

Some here claim to be able to separate the joints with a pair of heavy hammers. One resting against the side of the knuckle, and then a sharp blow on the opposite side with the other. I've not had much luck with that.....

After you do get the joint apart....I highly recommend servicing the joint. As you can see...there are no grease fittings on them...but rather "greased for life". But I dont reckon they intended a service life of more than 10 years or so. My joints were all okay with no play ( car had been sitting for many years )...but I popped off the boots... and inside was rather scary. No grease in sight !!! All dried up. Surely would not have lasted long at all like that. Clean them up inside and work in some new grease as best you can.

I think you said you you just got a new automotive multimeter ? Which one did you get ? But did you say it did not seem to test RPMs very well at all ? And which timing light did you buy ? I'm looking for a new one.

Just remembered I forgot to get back to you on this. The timing light is just a regular digital timing light from O'Rileys- an Innova 3568. It works well, the update rate for the tachometer is pretty high, and the dial back function is quite nice.

The multimeter is also an O'Rileys special, but is surprisingly good quality. The display is clear and sharp, and it does not do the "wandering" cheap multimeters seem to do. It is very fast to read and stabilize, and comes with a pair of alligator clips that attach to the end of the probes.

I am not sure on the model number but it is a Performance Tool Digital Multimeter. It was $37.

 

[Ron Avery]

Took my X1/9 to its first cars and coffee, wouldn’t you know it sprinkled. Also added 1/2 of oil after1000 miles of driving.

 

[NEG]

Fitted new track rod ends today, this eliminated the slight play in the L/H front wheel. Also fitted replacement front control arm ball joint boots with thanks and help from Dr.Jeff who pointed me at a couple of suppliers in my location. The old boots had split and grit had started to make its way into the joints, luckily they where ok with no play.

Also took the opportunity to squirt some 90 weight oil into the steering rack gaiters to keep them lubed up.

 

[NEG]

An ’interesting’ day to say the least. Started out well, took my car to have a 4 wheel alignment done after replacing the track rod ends, that all went well. The guys I use have set the car up in the past and did a great job again….



However…..when I got home I left the car on the drive and only put it in the garage a few hours later…I noted a large puddle of oil on the drive where the front left hand (passenger) side of the car had sat.

Crawling under the car I found:



I immediately blamed the guys at the shop for splitting the steering gator but on closer inspection it seems OK…alright they shouldnt have left it twisted like that but not split….then it dawned on me…can anybody spot what is wrong here?



To cap it all, upon putting the car back in the garage I noted an odd noise coming from the engine, I‘ll try to post a video in the workshop forum…

 

[ecohen2]

Passed an emissions test
Passed a safety check
Replaced a faulty window switch
Experimented with Adams Waterless Wash...

Busy day

 

[tvmaster]

An ’interesting’ day to say the least. Started out well, took my car to have a 4 wheel alignment done after replacing the track rod ends, that all went well. The guys I use have set the car up in the past and did a great job again….



However…..when I got home I left the car on the drive and only put it in the garage a few hours later…I noted a large puddle of oil on the drive where the front left hand (passenger) side of the car had sat.

Crawling under the car I found:



I immediately blamed the guys at the shop for splitting the steering gator but on closer inspection it seems OK…alright they shouldnt have left it twisted like that but not split….then it dawned on me…can anybody spot what is wrong here?



To cap it all, upon putting the car back in the garage I noted an odd noise coming from the engine, I‘ll try to post a video in the workshop forum…

I’m not sure what’s going on, but am interested to find out. Are 4 wheel alignment‘s pricey where you are?

 

[Ron Avery]

Passed an emissions test
Passed a safety check
Replaced a faulty window switch
Experimented with Adams Waterless Wash...

Busy day

That looks very clean

 

[ecohen2]

@Ron Avery Thanks! It hadn't been washed since being transported out and the first time I tried washing a car without soap and water...

 

[fiatfactory]

can anybody spot what is wrong here?

that's a drivers side rack boot on the passenger side of the car....

 

[NEG]

Correct Steve, beer on me! (and no, it wasn’t me who fitted it).

 

[RoyS]

Had the hose and cleaning supplies out so decided to tackle the wheels.

Before and after:

The other 3 didn't come out quite as clean. 3 rounds of Spray Nine and firm bristle brushes.

Then, since they were freshly degreased:

All 4 are now gold. Should look good against the black body of the X.


Roy

 

[Dr.Jeff]

Had the hose and cleaning supplies out so decided to tackle the wheels.

Before and after:
View attachment 48117

The other 3 didn't come out quite as clean. 3 rounds of Spray Nine and firm bristle brushes.

Then, since they were freshly degreased:
View attachment 48118

All 4 are now gold. Should look good against the black body of the X.


Roy

First time I've heard of "Spray Nine". Does it work this well on engines/transmissions/suspensions with decades of baked on oil and grease?

 

[RoyS]

First time I've heard of "Spray Nine". Does it work this well on engines/transmissions/suspensions with decades of baked on oil and grease?

Auto Archives - Spray Nine

www.spraynine.com

Seemed to work pretty good on my brake caliper brackets and dust shields.

For the engine I will probably use something stronger:

Roy

 

[Dr.Jeff]

For the engine I will probably use something stronger

Thanks. That's why I asked about it for engines, trans, etc. On old cars like these the crud gets really cooked into the pores of the cast metals, making it difficult to clean without a LOT of manual scrubbing. Especially tough to get into all the 'nooks and crannies'. So I was hoping this stuff might work great for that without as much scrubbing.