What did you do to your X1/9 today ?

Wheel styles and colors is a great topic with lots of interest. Perhaps this discussion should be moved out of the "today" thread and into one of its own? That will make it accessible in the future.
 
KBabcock said:
Love that Gold and black combo but back to the matter at hand. I'm so-so with Gold wheel on a Red car, I really like the wheels you have now and I have seen some users put accent colors that can have a nice effect. Painting the inside of the spokes with black could be a good look on your wheels. If you want to test it get some black vinyl and cut out the patches to see how they look, don't like them just peel them off.
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PlastiDip would be a test option as well
 
75 degrees here in South Florida. Took the two running cars out for a drive. Got my torque fix with the Vette and handling fix with the X!

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Drove it to the office on a sunny, warm day (left top at home) to take a car-buddy colleage to lunch. Drove great but stumbles a bit on throttle when cold. Starts immediately and has a smooth idle, and clears up within a minute or so then revs fine, but "warming up" is something I think of with carbed cars not FI like my '82.
Not a big problem but curious why it would do this. Any ideas/easy fixes?
 
Nurburgringer said:
Drove it to the office on a sunny, warm day (left top at home) to take a car-buddy colleage to lunch. Drove great but stumbles a bit on throttle when cold. Starts immediately and has a smooth idle, and clears up within a minute or so then revs fine, but "warming up" is something I think of with carbed cars not FI like my '82.
Not a big problem but curious why it would do this. Any ideas/easy fixes?
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Are the plug wires new? I had a tip in stumble on my 86 years ago and was advised to replace the old plug wires. The new wires resolved the issue. Your issue may be different, but I thought I would throw that out there.
 
JimD said:
Are the plug wires new? I had a tip in stumble on my 86 years ago and was advised to replace the old plug wires. The new wires resolved the issue. Your issue may be different, but I thought I would throw that out there.
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no idea how old they are. Don't see any evidence of replacements in the last ~7yrs of receipts I got with the car a few weeks ago, and while they don't look fresh I don't see any exposed wiring.. name brand wires at least!
If one/more were bad wouldn't that affect running hot or cold? The stumble clears up within first minute of driving.
thx for suggestion!
waiting on a Bayless parts order now: fuel/air/oil filters, rubber elbow after air filter (mine is cracked), fuel line, shifter wavy-washer, X1/9 coffee mug etc. Will R&R parts and put new brake fluid in when car is up on blocks for next couple weeks while I redo wheels and seats get re-upholstered.
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Elanplus2 said:
I haven't done this TO my car yet, but I'm considering changing the look of the wheels that came with the car. They have some rash, and the surfaces are just in need in general. Our cars (especially the 70's one) are - in my opinion - a bit ostentatious by design... more conservative Stratos? So... I like the idea of going with som
Elanplus2 said:
I haven't done this TO my car yet, but I'm considering changing the look of the wheels that came with the car. They have some rash, and the surfaces are just in need in general. Our cars (especially the 70's one) are - in my opinion - a bit ostentatious by design... more conservative Stratos? So... I like the idea of going with some period colour(s). My son is pretty adept with computer graphics and worked up these samples for me. Off the top, the black ones bore me. Thoughts and suggestions? Ciao!
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UPDATE... I decided to take the job on myself. It's QUITE a tedious one, but becoming well worth it! The progression photos show where I started and where I'm at. LOTS of curbing and maring has now been polished out. 2 coats of Etching Primer, 3 coats of Filling Primer and 4 coats of Paint. Multiple coats of matte clear coat to come. If anyone has a lead on center caps for these, I'd appreciate the info. Cheers!
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Nurburgringer said:
no idea how old they are. Don't see any evidence of replacements in the last ~7yrs of receipts I got with the car a few weeks ago, and while they don't look fresh I don't see any exposed wiring.. name brand wires at least!
If one/more were bad wouldn't that affect running hot or cold? The stumble clears up within first minute of driving.
thx for suggestion!
waiting on a Bayless parts order now: fuel/air/oil filters, rubber elbow after air filter (mine is cracked), fuel line, shifter wavy-washer, X1/9 coffee mug etc. Will R&R parts and put new brake fluid in when car is up on blocks for next couple weeks while I redo wheels and seats get re-upholstered.
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Have you checked the cap & rotor?
 
excellent!! Great color.
What brand paint did you go with?
What is the color called (just gold?)?
What are you using for a stand to paint them on?
I'm tackling mine in a few weeks.. thx!
 
Today finished installing front end kit and new struts with bearing kit, front end kit and bearing kit are from RX1900, nice kits
 
Nurburgringer said:
no idea how old they are. Don't see any evidence of replacements in the last ~7yrs of receipts I got with the car a few weeks ago, and while they don't look fresh I don't see any exposed wiring.. name brand wires at least!
If one/more were bad wouldn't that affect running hot or cold? The stumble clears up within first minute of driving.
thx for suggestion!
waiting on a Bayless parts order now: fuel/air/oil filters, rubber elbow after air filter (mine is cracked), fuel line, shifter wavy-washer, X1/9 coffee mug etc. Will R&R parts and put new brake fluid in when car is up on blocks for next couple weeks while I redo wheels and seats get re-upholstered.
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Sounds like something in the "warm-up" circuits. The equivalent to a carb engine with a sticking choke.

The AAV (idle control air bypass valve) can get dirty and stick open or closed. Remove it, inspect its function (factory workshop manual has the procedure), clean it and reinstall. The TTS (temperature switch) may be faulty - but I doubt it. But it can also be tested (also in the manual).

Especially with a vacuum leak at the intake hose (cracked item you are replacing), the air fuel ratio will be off. Causing a lean mixture which would contribute further to such problems. But it's not likely the real cause of it because that affects all operating conditions, not just warm-up.
 
Dr.Jeff said:
Sounds like something in the "warm-up" circuits. The equivalent to a carb engine with a sticking choke.
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Thanks for tips!
Will investigate AAV.

The crack is directly after the air filter so before the MAF but maybe leakage through that is causing turbulance the MAF doesn't like... replacement will be here in a few days so that'll be easy to check.
cheers!
 
Nurburgringer said:
Thanks for tips!
Will investigate AAV.

The crack is directly after the air filter so before the MAF but maybe leakage through that is causing turbulance the MAF doesn't like... replacement will be here in a few days so that'll be easy to check.
cheers!
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Ok, that isn't likely to have any real effect. I was thinking the crack was after the AFM.

I'd start with the AAV. To test it you'll have to stick it in the freezer for awhile and check the size of the internal opening. Then connect it to 12V for a bit and check the opening again. If it is frozen or sticking they can be a bit difficult to clean out. Try some spray carb cleaner, and lots of it. Or even drop it in a gallon can of carb cleaner soak. And work the valve door back and forth with a long narrow screwdriver.

Also look for other cracks / vacuum leaks everywhere else. These systems are sensitive to it. A vac leak will affect all operating functions, but often more so for the warm up cycle because it is more dependant on a rich mixture.
 
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