tvmaster
True Classic
any particular reason you chose one method over the other? I’m having discussions with my painter, and this has come up. He likes the enamel because that’s how it was painted originally. Thanks.It is base coat
any particular reason you chose one method over the other? I’m having discussions with my painter, and this has come up. He likes the enamel because that’s how it was painted originally. Thanks.It is base coat
Did they disintegrate when you removed them?Has anyone changed the inner window felts , any info on what’s available, thanks
They look fantastic. Please tell us what you used, X1/9 in particular.
They look fantastic. Please tell us what you used, X1/9 in particular.
Saw that. Very impressed, good job. Following the "one job at a time" philosophy seems to work pretty for me too.Agreed. I really enjoy rebuilding systems on my car and making them like new again. Attention to detail goes a long way. My pedal assembly rebuild was an example: https://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/what-did-you-do-to-your-x1-9-today.10638/post-383742
Hey Mark, looks great. I'm about to start my dash resto. Was gonna try that "Flex Paste" method posted here a bit ago. Hope it comes out half as nice as yours.The X1/9 dash had the typical 2 cracks in the top running to the defroster vent. It was badly warped. I had to remove the foam from the underside so I could correct the warpage. I used epoxy resin, fiberglass cloth and milled glass fibers to reinforce the cracked areas. I also repaired the radio cutout in the same manner. Body filler was used where needed to flatten the surfaces. I used a black 2K primer surfacer to fill in the vinyl grain texture. I then applied a splatter finish with the 2K and finished it off with a urethane matte black. Month long project
View attachment 52269
View attachment 52270
If you find these cheap or compatible replacements please let me know. Mine are completely rotted.Has anyone changed the inner window felts , any info on what’s available, thanks
I purchased a 20 foot length of universal felt trim from a antique car restoration supply company. It comes in about 20 different configurations so I had to take a sample of the old stuff and match it to the new ones. It was around $30 for the length, which is easily enough to do two X's. Fits and works like the original.If you find these cheap or compatible replacements please let me know. Mine are completely rotted.
Mark, you have the right idea there to cover the whole top surface with filler and fibreglass repairs. And the top coat looks great. Mine was cracked just like yours, I found I could flatten the warpage using a hot air gun fairly well, ground out the cracks and used a flexible plastic filler just in the cracks, but when spray painted with plastic bumper texture coat I got hairline cracks on one side of the filler and the original dash plastic, no matter what I tried.The X1/9 dash had the typical 2 cracks in the top running to the defroster vent. It was badly warped. I had to remove the foam from the underside so I could correct the warpage. I used epoxy resin, fiberglass cloth and milled glass fibers to reinforce the cracked areas. I also repaired the radio cutout in the same manner. Body filler was used where needed to flatten the surfaces. I used a black 2K primer surfacer to fill in the vinyl grain texture. I then applied a splatter finish with the 2K and finished it off with a urethane matte black. Month long project
View attachment 52269
View attachment 52270
I recently rebuilt a dash as well. I can't say for sure what made the difference, but I did not end up with any residual cracks and there is no evidence of them after the fact. And I only filled the cracked areas - I did not cover the entire dash surface as Mark did (excellent results on his).Mark, you have the right idea there to cover the whole top surface with filler and fibreglass repairs. And the top coat looks great. Mine was cracked just like yours, I found I could flatten the warpage using a hot air gun fairly well, ground out the cracks and used a flexible plastic filler just in the cracks, but when spray painted with plastic bumper texture coat I got hairline cracks on one side of the filler and the original dash plastic, no matter what I tried.
I ended up grinding the cracks out again and filling with Urethane sealant, sanding flat, and top coat with Plastidip. Unfortunately the repairs are still visible no matter how many coats I do, including sanding the plastidip coating.View attachment 52271
Plastidip top coat.
View attachment 52272View attachment 52273View attachment 52274
Flexible filler and Bumper texture coat.
If you’re not doing the work yourself, more expensive for base coat I imagine?In my opinion, base coat is easy to apply goes on like primer , wait half hour put on clear ,three coats if you happen to get dust or run wet sand with 2000 grit and polish , better shine , no fading of colour , over all in my opinion just better
Yes a bit more, three litres of base ,and base maker ,$350 ,then gallon of clear , clear was around $150 , and the time three coats of base then three coats of clear, with the other types two or three coats ,If you’re not doing the work yourself, more expensive for base coat I imagine?
Excellent - not that much really. The blue is looking good If you find a good source for replacement felt, let us knowYes a bit more, three litres of base ,and base maker ,$350 ,then gallon of clear , clear was around $150 , and the time three coats of base then three coats of clear, with the other types two or three coats ,
Not to take away for the tow hook you made, but I am intrigued by the plastic pouch more. Please explain the RF welding process and some details on the right type of plastic to use for this.Making a RF welded pouch, Nylon fabric with PU coating
Will doExcellent - not that much really. The blue is looking good If you find a good source for replacement felt, let us know