That's an impressive tool you built.I rolled my X!
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Now I have good access to the bottom of the car to tackle the rusty floors etc.
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Roy
Looks like you are not the first person in there rebuilding the floors. Some rather less than lovely work in the past.I rolled my X!
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Now I have good access to the bottom of the car to tackle the rusty floors etc.
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Roy
What year car do you have? Putting the info into your signature would help.Today I get to rip my doors apart and work on repairing or replacing the window regulators. (or at least one)
Is there another car that uses the same regulator as an X?
I thought I had seen one a few months ago but now can't find it.
Thanks
'75.What year car do you have? Putting the info into your signature would help.
To the best of my knowledge, the regulators if electric are specific to the X.
If the regulators are the cable variety, again I believe the spools are X specific.
Putting in the trunk and engine cover latches and trimming the cable and housing to the correct length. It looks like the housing is routed through two holes in the engine bay - are there supposed to be be rubber grommets that they go through?
In a day or two trimming to exact length and cleaning up/mounting latches.
You can buy the regulators with cable new. Given the age and that it was already ‘rebuilt’, a new one is likely in order.'75.
I pulled out the regulator, it turns out a P.O. had put in a cable that was too long and too thick. Par for the course on this car. The pulleys are all there and it looks like nothing is broken. I read somewhere that the cables are 330cm, I cut out the old cable and ordered some new online (X-long tandem brake inner cable). I should be able to fix them.
I'm with Karl, I'd just replace the entire assembly instead of attempting to replace just the cable. These are a nightmare to rewrap the cable onto them. And as he said there are lots of other parts that will be worn. The fact someone else has attempted prior repairs tells me it has pre-existing problems. I believe the ones from Ladas is a direct fit for very little money.'75.
I pulled out the regulator, it turns out a P.O. had put in a cable that was too long and too thick. Par for the course on this car. The pulleys are all there and it looks like nothing is broken. I read somewhere that the cables are 330cm, I cut out the old cable and ordered some new online (X-long tandem brake inner cable). I should be able to fix them.
I'm very intrigued by your front bumper treatment. Especially the 2 small overriders. Did it come that way? Did you change it? Do you have any closer pics from the side?Here are a couple more pics. View attachment 54986View attachment 54987
That’s the top rail from the stock ‘75 ladder bumper. I wanted it to be reversible so just disassembled the bumper ( it’s all bolted together) then collapsed the shocks and just attached the top bar. I made the end caps and overriders from some foam blocks I had left over from a boat project covered in West System epoxy then sprayed with bed liner. I’ll take some closer pics this weekend. You could even make them out of wood or any other material that can be crafted into the proper shape. They’re attached with polyurethane adhesive to the brackets.I'm very intrigued by your front bumper treatment. Especially the 2 small overriders. Did it come that way? Did you change it? Do you have any closer pics from the side?
I'm also using a single rail of the '75 bumper, but not as nicely finished like with your overriders. I'd love some pics. ThxThat’s the top rail from the stock ‘75 ladder bumper. I wanted it to be reversible so just disassembled the bumper ( it’s all bolted together) then collapsed the shocks and just attached the top bar. I made the end caps and overriders from some foam blocks I had left over from a boat project covered in West System epoxy then sprayed with bed liner. I’ll take some closer pics this weekend. You could even make them out of wood or any other material that can be crafted into the proper shape. They’re attached with polyurethane adhesive to the brackets.
I ran into that. I'll probably just run a small hole saw through it. The metal piece pops off on the back, or at least mine does. I don't think the cigarette lighter will ever go back.I TRIED to replace the ciggy lighter with this more useful voltmeter/USB charger. Who knew cigarette lighters were 3.3mm narrower back then. Opening is 25.5mm, new unit is 28.8mm.
I‘ve been searching online all day for one which fits, but they all seem to be juuuuuust a little to wide.
I really don‘t want to butcher the original center console, but if I decide to, what tools would be needed to bore out the hole 3.3mm? It’s the metal in behind the console I’m not sure how to cut…ideas?
Or, if anyone has a unit sourced which actually fits the 25.5mm (1”) hole, please post.
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