Working on the House....

[dllubin]

On my construction projects, I tend to use joist hangers and other connector types on most joints along with the fasteners (screws) designed for them. Aside from ending up with a stronger joint, I find that using an impact driver takes less of a toll on my body than a hammer does. It also makes it much easier to take things apart when necessary. I tend to use the Simpson Strong-Tie connectors as they are readily available around here, inexpensive, and well made.

 

[lookforjoe]

I will be scrapping the J channel idea. I can't find flashing that is corrugated for steel panels, or foam 'wave' closure that conforms to the panel contour, which was the main reason I was considering the J channel. I did find a 1" foam tape that is meant for metal panels, so I'll get that to use under the flashing, over the panel at the siiding, and at the facia end . Finding angle flashing besides drip edge seems to be problematic. I'll have to see what I can find.

I got 1x4's along the top & outer edge of the rafters, along with another strip when the upper & lower roof panels will need to overlap. I still need to add another length of 1x4 in the middle of the span. I put tar paper along the outer 1x4 overlapping the sub facia. I will see if I can pry up the siding to tuck flashing under. I wedged tar paper up under the siding ridge as it stands, I can seal flashing up against that if not under.



Test fitting the lower section of the roofing, with 3" overhang. I found that the 3rd rafter from the right is not 24" OC, so I need to add a sister rafter at 24" OC. Still have to buy the gutter. I had bought 1x6 to use as facia, not sure I need to bother with that now I have the 2x6

 

[kmead]

Normally you would skip sheath the roof and then place the metal. Skip sheathing is 1x3 with a space between each one. Always think about flashing as a process driven by gravity, overlaps of all pieces with each piece being higher than the lowest.

Skip sheathing is good in that it allows any driven water to easily drop and for the components to have a decent amount of air movement so they dry out. This is the way most barn type buildings are done as they aren’t conditioned space.

Never rely on caulk…

Another choice would be to fully sheath the structure with ply or wafer board, apply roofing felt and then add the metal roofing.

 

[lookforjoe]

Added the center 1x4 run & started figuring out the upper 2' corrugation overlap & flashing at the siding.
Overlap roofing will have butyl seal, and foam seal at the flashing. Waiting for the short screws for the overlap risers
Added a drip seal along the siding recess after this - since the flashing cannot fit behind the siding, I need to figure out an alternative sealing method for that.

Secured the two outer panels temporarily to check alignment & fit

 

[lookforjoe]

Normally you would skip sheath the roof and then place the metal. Skip sheathing is 1x3 with a space between each one. Always think about flashing as a process driven by gravity, overlaps of all pieces with each piece being higher than the lowest.
Skip sheathing is good in that it allows any driven water to easily drop and for the components to have a decent amount of air movement so they dry out. This is the way most barn type buildings are done as they aren’t conditioned space.
Never rely on caulk…
Another choice would be to fully sheath the structure with ply or wafer board, apply roofing felt and then add the metal roofing.

Thank you Karl

Part of the rationale for the wider spacing cross sheathing is that I need to be able to get up in-between to secure the panels as I work my way from one side to the other. I can't walk on the roofing to do that. I figured under 2" spacing on the 1x4 sheathing would be rigid enough. I definitely don't want to sheath it. I will likely remove it all in (hopefully) just a few years when I extend the garage rearward.

 

[lookforjoe]

To address the flashing, I cut a 1/4" groove in the siding for the 1/4 lip on the flashing, which I will fill with a urethane sealant & then nail the vertical below the groove, with sealant behind that.

Added joist hangers to the rafters at the subfacia. Added a stud, and finished out the panel behind the press to a depth of 58". Going to add another 2x10 plank for the platform to make it deep enough to easily walk on & move the heavy equipment around

The universal foam I bought from Home Depot is supposed to expand to up to 1", to seal the gap in the corrugation valleys. I don't think it's going to happen - I've left it unwrapped for over 24 hours, and 1/2 of it is just as uneven thickness as it was wrapped

Gutter will sit along these lines

 

[lookforjoe]

EPDM washer screws finally came (after Amazon first sent a "Baby Alive" doll) - so hopefully next week I can get back to that. My wife & I are in Baltimore for a few days out of town, the trip was delayed yesterday morning when we heard the sump pump screaming -



ld dead pump. -lasted about 10 years



new pump installed, also from Home Depot. Took only 4-5 min to clear the majority of the water





Cool tree grafting



what to do with your old Pontiac station wagon

 

[Lowtechprime]

Added the center 1x4 run & started figuring out the upper 2' corrugation overlap & flashing at the siding.
Overlap roofing will have butyl seal, and foam seal at the flashing. Waiting for the short screws for the overlap risers
Added a drip seal along the siding recess after this - since the flashing cannot fit behind the siding, I need to figure out an alternative sealing method for that.
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Secured the two outer panels temporarily to check alignment & fit
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Question? Why did you choose metal panels and not shingles that match your garage roof? The metal panels will be loud when it rains, form condensation on the underside when they cool possibly dripping, and eventually rust and look worn out.. Good shingles can last 30 years...

 

[lookforjoe]

Question? Why did you choose metal panels and not shingles that match your garage roof? The metal panels will be loud when it rains, form condensation on the underside when they cool possibly dripping, and eventually rust and look worn out.. Good shingles can last 30 years...

Good questions.
It's a temporary structure - I only need it to last a few years. The noise off the metal doesn't matter. to me. Sheathing and shingles would have cost a fair bit more & weigh much more, plus I did not engineer the supports with that additional structure weight. I don't want to add support posts, etc.

 

[Steve Thomas]

Question? Why did you choose metal panels and not shingles that match your garage roof? The metal panels will be loud when it rains, form condensation on the underside when they cool possibly dripping, and eventually rust and look worn out.. Good shingles can last 30 years...

Just re-sheeted my brother-in-laws, mothers roof. Was galvanised iron sheets and over 60 years old. Replacement was primarily cosmetic as had strong surface rust colouration. Replaced with new gal iron as was her preference - I would have used what is called Colorbond in Australia - high tensile steel sheet with a very fancy paint system. Nobody knows how long they last but I have cleaned up a place that had a pile of the stuff lying on wet ground for more than 20 years and it looked new

 

[lookforjoe]

Back on there roofing a bit - set the roofing for a 2" overhang into the gutter



Used OSI Quad calk (oil based) for the flashing



started putting the steel roofing on. Foam under the flashing, buytl under the panel overlap. The foam is uneven thickness - I used the EPDM screws to pull it down more evenly.



Home Depot had some (2) 4x8' siding sheets cheap (70% off), due to damaged overlap edge - worked for me for the backside of the end panel

 

[Steve Thomas]

Screws in the valley - never on a roof, yes on walls but not on a roof, asking for leaks. Not as structural either but not relevant in this case. No idea what your climate is like - maybe you will get away with it

 

[lookforjoe]

Screws in the valley - never on a roof, yes on walls but not on a roof, asking for leaks. Not as structural either but not relevant in this case. No idea what your climate is like - maybe you will get away with it

Seems like there is much debate over that. I read some quite passionate debates in favor of both approaches. The guide I found for these thin panels indicated in the valley for attachment to the structure, and in the rise for the panel overlap. Of course, looking online now for examples, all the ones I see show screwing in the rise, but they are all heavier gauge panels than mine. It's done now, so hopefully it doesn't leak.

 

[Steve Thomas]

so hopefully it doesn't leak.

The guidance from people who make and warrant the stuff is ridges. Valley OK on walls if not being used as structural... Valley definitely easier but also likely to leak compared to ridge cos physics. You'll probably get a few years without leaks anyhow.

 

[lookforjoe]

Cleaning up underneath yesterday after work. Not much daylight at the mo. I have to finish the gutter this morning. I think I'm going to add a panel at the end to make a 'cubby' where the bench press lives. It's going to snow/rain this weekend, so I'll get a better sense of how it all flows into the space. Haven't really paid attention in the past.

 

[86X]

Nice job. It was missing one thing. I fixed it for you.

 

[86X]

Sorry I couldn't help myself!

 

[lookforjoe]

Sorry I couldn't help myself!

All Kinds of car-porn going on in that garage ...
....edit - now I have that song stuck in my head, thanks ,

 

[lookforjoe]

Making good use of the pickup to carry about 800lbs of concrete mix and gravel - desperately needed to repair the approx 3x4' platform at the back door of the garage - I've dealt with a wooden ramp for years, however it gets very slippery in this weather & I'm just too old to be falling when carrying heavy crap to & from the garage.

Approx 7" deep, Concrete slab is blanketed and covered with wood to protect from frost.
Also finished the gutter on the awning

 

[lookforjoe]

The guidance from people who make and warrant the stuff is ridges. Valley OK on walls if not being used as structural... Valley definitely easier but also likely to leak compared to ridge cos physics. You'll probably get a few years without leaks anyhow.

Found the direction sheet from this brand / thickness corrugated panels - definitely doesn't make sense from a physics perspective. It's snowing now & going to rain & then snow again tomorrow - I will report the news either way.