tvmaster
True Classic
Well this looks familiar: https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10785678...&utm_campaign=shopping&utm_content=10785678en
Nice Find! In an ideal world, I'd like to have a Prototipo & a stock X1/9 to go with my DallaraWell this looks familiar: https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10785678...&utm_campaign=shopping&utm_content=10785678en
I am very happy with the new Solo Stealth muffler. It is their quietest performance muffler, but I would not say that it is quiet by any means. It has a nice deep resonance at idle and cruising but no drone and makes for enjoyable driving. It's almost a kind of V-8 deep resonance. Step on the gas and it definitely opens up but not to the level of the SSW and no where near the Magnaflow. When you are driving at a steady speed and back off the gas slightly, the exhaust has a wonderful "burble" to it. When decelerating with your foot off the gas, there is a bit of drone sound then, but that is a short lived situation. I still want to do a driving video but just haven't gotten to it yet.Thanks for the input, Rodger.
I also used the K-Tuned upper housing (the one on the back side of the head) to connect to the t/stat/water housing - I was also concerned about the very small passage, however it does seem to be an non-issue.
The other thing the tuner suggested (if I really wanted to do it) was hooking up the ECT control ground for the rad fans - to use the engine temp to govern onset vs. rad temps. At this point, running an extra wire (neatly) in the loom from the bay back through the cabin and on to the front of the car would be more work than I care to do. Maybe I'll run supplemental harness inside the water tunnel ..... He did also say though, he tracks his K24/K20 motor & can see 220-240 temps, while far from ideal, he was not concerned about the motor suffering/ performance loss simply because the operating temps climbed that high.
On the exhaust, I tried looking for your post regarding the muffler - I recall you found a quieter muffler - how is that performing? Have you driven the car hard to put the VTEC to the test? Did you Dyno your setup, I don't recall. EDIT. - found the post - had to go through several pages of your post history - can't select "threads by xxx" in the User CP.
Davies -Craig 12v EWP80Sorry I not intend to post the same image three times. But to summarize I think that the Honda water pump at idle does not like the long coolant lines and bends that it takes to run through the Fiat system. I also have an under-driven pulley and assumed that was part of my problem.
I have been thinking about en electric pump for my X (whether it is needed or not). Having the pump in the engine bay puts the pump in the loop of the engine to thermostat to pump to engine, as well as the heater loop which is engine head to heater core to back of pump to engine. When the thermostat is open it is engine to thermostat to radiator to pump to engine and the heater loop continues to function as it is within the thermostatic loop and the inlet and outlet of the pump.Davies -Craig 12v EWP80
Bringing this back - did you take any pics/measurements of the pump assembly prior to install? I'm also assuming you have it set as a puller since it's on the outlet side of the rad?
There seems to be no question that the stock Honda w/pump doesn't like the system length - on mine, the rad outlet is cooler to the touch (after driving) until the car sits & engine temps go over approx 205f, then the temp finally goes up at the rad outlet & low temp fan comes on, shortly followed by the high temp fan. This seems to be 'normal' for the K24, and the tuner said not to worry about it - I'm just not sure I can live with looking at the gauge sitting at 210 (past center 190 marker) - I just have too much PTSD from years of overheating issues .
I am going to wire the Honda ECU fan control & drop the onset temp, and see if that changes anything - however it does seem like any fan control adjustments are all reactive - bumping the coolant flow at low rpm seems like a more proactive arrangement.
That looks like an alternate radiator with the cooling tubes swapped (Scirocco?) so a push from the hot side low as possible up front.I'm also assuming you have it set as a puller since it's on the outlet side of the rad?
Hi Hussein, Anyone correct me if I'm remembering this wrong, but I thought the original water pumps on the 128 motor (x1/9) and also the 124 motor (scorpion) were different than their mid-engine counterparts due to this reason. I remember on my original X1/9 needing a replacement water pump at some point, and when I went to order one from International or Bayless (this was in the early 90's) I was told that I could not use the 128 pump they had in stock because the impeller blades were different. The X1/9 pump needing to push the coolant the extra long distance vs. the short tubes on the regular FWD 128 cars, so the pumps wee not the same. I've been wondering if this will be an issue on my K24 swap as well.Davies -Craig 12v EWP80
Bringing this back - did you take any pics/measurements of the pump assembly prior to install? I'm also assuming you have it set as a puller since it's on the outlet side of the rad?
There seems to be no question that the stock Honda w/pump doesn't like the system length - on mine, the rad outlet is cooler to the touch (after driving) until the car sits & engine temps go over approx 205f, then the temp finally goes up at the rad outlet & low temp fan comes on, shortly followed by the high temp fan. This seems to be 'normal' for the K24, and the tuner said not to worry about it - I'm just not sure I can live with looking at the gauge sitting at 210 (past center 190 marker) - I just have too much PTSD from years of overheating issues .
I am going to wire the Honda ECU fan control & drop the onset temp, and see if that changes anything - however it does seem like any fan control adjustments are all reactive - bumping the coolant flow at low rpm seems like a more proactive arrangement.
The Davies Craig units have had good longevity. Their design is much the same as what you see on Bosch and other supplementary cooling pumps.Hi Hussein, Anyone correct me if I'm remembering this wrong, but I thought the original water pumps on the 128 motor (x1/9) and also the 124 motor (scorpion) were different than their mid-engine counterparts due to this reason. I remember on my original X1/9 needing a replacement water pump at some point, and when I went to order one from International or Bayless (this was in the early 90's) I was told that I could not use the 128 pump they had in stock because the impeller blades were different. The X1/9 pump needing to push the coolant the extra long distance vs. the short tubes on the regular FWD 128 cars, so the pumps wee not the same. I've been wondering if this will be an issue on my K24 swap as well.
It seems an electric pump would be a good alternative, but reading recommendations on K20a.org, it seems the electrics were not recommended for street use due to high service or replacement intervals, which is fine for a track car. Even the K-Tuned electric pump kit is listed for "race only." Anyone else concur on this or have better news about using one for street? It seems that a no-thermostat system with a variable speed pump would be perfect and could even be set to run after the engine is shut off like the Abarth 500 or many turbocharged Audi's.
Hi Hussein, Anyone correct me if I'm remembering this wrong, but I thought the original water pumps on the 128 motor (x1/9) and also the 124 motor (scorpion) were different than their mid-engine counterparts due to this reason. I remember on my original X1/9 needing a replacement water pump at some point, and when I went to order one from International or Bayless (this was in the early 90's) I was told that I could not use the 128 pump they had in stock because the impeller blades were different. The X1/9 pump needing to push the coolant the extra long distance vs. the short tubes on the regular FWD 128 cars, so the pumps wee not the same. I've been wondering if this will be an issue on my K24 swap as well.
It seems an electric pump would be a good alternative, but reading recommendations on K20a.org, it seems the electrics were not recommended for street use due to high service or replacement intervals, which is fine for a track car. Even the K-Tuned electric pump kit is listed for "race only." Anyone else concur on this or have better news about using one for street? It seems that a no-thermostat system with a variable speed pump would be perfect and could even be set to run after the engine is shut off like the Abarth 500 or many turbocharged Audi's.
I mention all this as it is important to consider the flow around the three effective circuits: warm up; heater and at temperature running. This is quite different on the Honda but it will have similarities of function and require judicious rerouting and consideration. I know Odie and a gentleman from England were having a fair amount of problems with just a standard pump.
My swap is not to the point where we can compare notes yet. Because there are relatively few X conversions running down the road, information is a little scarce. You might want to invest a little time searching the Lotus Elise forums. The K20/24 swaps have been wildly popular with tons of them completed. The Elise cooling system is very similar to an X and if anyone has run into cooling issues it would be this crowd. Might be worth a shot?
I don't know what normal oil temp is on these things - mine stayed over 220ºF (!?) with sustained rpms around & over 4K
Not 100% certain on cars, but the normal range on my airplane is 160* - 210*, maximum 245*