1976 Scorpion; Gold

My 77 Scorpion has Fiat 124 calipers, no booster and an adjustable proportioning valve. When I do the restoration and upgrade the engine, I'll probably upgrade the front brakes accordingly and then play with the valve to get the right amount of balance. Agree that the valve is key to getting it right.
 
carl said:
If I drive my (over boosted brakes) spider for awhile and then jump in one of my Xs then the brakes feel...er...lacking. If I do the opposite then the spider feels way too touchy. My Miatas felt fine and if I jump in the GTI after driving any car it feels like it wants to slam to a stop just by thinking of slowing down.

The point I was trying to make is you all complain the fronts are too strong in relation to the rears but no one focused on making the rears stronger. I don't really have a dog in this fight, I never had a scorpion and have never even sat in one.
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Two of the Bonalid boosters (front and rear) are used in US Alfa Duetto and Lamborghini Jalpa and Urraco.
 
The whole bottom of the car, including suspension and motor, was undercoated in the 1970s.
I believe this pan was originally semigloss black. However, at least for now, I just re-coated it with undercoating after cleaning it.
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The shocks were replaced with Konis 40 years ago and the calipers replaced 20 year ago. Both still look in good condition.
The entire bottom and suspension is undercoated. Maybe why this one is a rust-survivor.
Without a total rotisserie-type restoration it will never have a show-car undercarriage like some of the other cars on the forum. So I'll just leave it for now.
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Yes, gold is a little unusual and does not work on many cars. I thnk it is a nice 70's color. In fact my car would love to nudge its way into this picture:

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Hole re-drilled on the vacuum pump to align with the studs already on the car.
Again the pump was originally for the HVAC because the engine does not develop enough vacuum to move the controls, but I'm also hooking it to the brake booster. There is no connection at all to the intake manifold any longer. So, If it locks the wheels, then no big deal removing the booster vacuum line from the pump.
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Test fitting the vacuum pump. It is pretty much out of the way, under the spare tire. Near where the air pump had been.
The hose to the right goes to the HVAC, vacuum reservoir and brake booster. The blue line is power directly from the battery, tapped off the starter solenoid. There is a fuse on that line inside the relay box on the pump
THe un-used connector with orange wires from the emission system (behind the pump) has low amp 12V from the ignition switch. I'll use that to activate the relay in the pump so the pump stops when the ignition is off. I measured the Amps the pump draws and I could probably run the pump right off that line to the ignition switch, but they recommend a line straight off the battery, so that is what I did.
The pump has a built in sensor, so it is a demand pump.
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I had the wheel restoration shop keep the Pirelli P3 165/13 tire on the spare; the straps won't go around the larger tires.

My son pointed out the front disk on the family station wagon (16.5") is larger than the Lancia's wheel 😲

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That is an interesting observation! But keep in mind that an RS6 Avant is not exactly the typical family wagon ;)
Nice cars, enjoying watching you get this one back on the road!
 
icr said:
Test fitting the vacuum pump. It is pretty much out of the way, under the spare tire. Near where the air pump had been.
The hose to the right goes to the HVAC, vacuum reservoir and brake booster. The blue line is power directly from the battery, tapped off the starter solenoid. There is a fuse on that line inside the relay box on the pump
THe un-used connector with orange wires from the emission system (behind the pump) has low amp 12V from the ignition switch. I'll use that to activate the relay in the pump so the pump stops when the ignition is off. I measured the Amps the pump draws and I could probably run the pump right off that line to the ignition switch, but they recommend a line straight off the battery, so that is what I did.
The pump has a built in sensor, so it is a demand pump.
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Always best to remove loads from the ignition switch, it is old and already has excessive loads on it. Modern cars completely unload the ignition switch it effectively is just a relay trigger now of days.
 
Wow, what great and detailed proces. I do like 1970’s cars in gold, I had a 1980 TR8 in gold.
your car is a great example of good care and thoughtful storage. Wonderful Scorpean.
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To make sure the electric vacuum pump is not running all the time, I needed to check the system for leaks. The vacuum reservoir checked OK and the hose to the HVAC equipment in the dash also held vacuum. Previously I had checked the brake booster as good.

So almost ready to hook it all together.
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Getting closer. Turns out there were tornado warnings yesterday and today with hail so It won't be out this weekend.

I did get the pump all connected. I hooked up the car battery and indeed the pump only comes on after the ignition is turned on. So I have wired the relay correctly to be triggered from the line that previously went to the a valve on the emission equipment that has now been removed.

So it is a totally non-desructive addition. The pump essentially take the place of the EGR valve and not only mounts in its place, hooks to the car's wiring harness with the same connector.

The pump is a little noisy on startup but I expected that. It gets quieter and then does shut off after vacuum is developed.

The push button controls on the HVAC console now make the lever move up and down as it should and I can hear the valves open and close under the dash.

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