Budget hi comp high(er) hp motor build

Yep... it makes sense to me. Mike may haveta think...

about it for awhile though...

(HA!)

I would think no more than two degrees or so to start. I just read an article in Hot Rod Magazine about timing cams... with a compression tester. You tweak the cam until you have the highest compression.

Seems this would make sense as well! What do you think?
 
I haven't heard that one before

I guess you are talking about this article Tony?

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/1403_cam_install_from_the_start/

My only comment would be that this is only at starter cranking speed rather than at "normal" engine RPMs so port gas speeds etc. and therefore volumetric efficiency will be very different.

But apart from that I am struggling to find fault with the reasoning.

I'd love to hear thoughts from SteveC, Hussein and Bernice.

Cheers,

Rob
 
Exactly Rob... I didn't think of looking up...

the article online... and hate to try and scan them. Good call.

I think the logic seems appropriate as well... but even in the article it states that it is the place to START. Absolute performance highs will need to be proven with data from a dyno, the track, or the seat of the driver's pants.

I too respect and would like to hear the experience of those mentioned... but in any case... whatever they suggest would be a START as well and would need to proven by the same methods.

With the somewhat unlimited adjustment of the cam pulley, Mike can really have some fun with this!
 
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I'll just put this right here...

g582.jpg
 
Down to the nitty gritty

The No crap it's done list!


Replace radiator with aluminum style (Wire as well).
Replace all coolant lines with silicon style
Install front airdam and
find plastic to extend air dam (with fender flares)
"modify" front wheel arches to accommodate wider tires
Reassemble lower end (torque conn rods, install oil pump and oil pan)
Add oil and coolant
gas (and check fuel delivery to carbs)
Find connection nuts forgas pump
Charge battery
Install windshield
Finish instrument cluster wiring 99% done
Mount safety harness
[Mount pass seat and harness]
Mount fire extinguisher(s)
Correct exhaust manifold
Mount exhaust and intake manifolds
Mount carbs and install throttle linkage
Install CV shafts
Connect trans lollipop and adjust
New tires and Bassett rims (hopefully)

Start, Test and tune.
Click to expand...

And I have 7 days to do it!
 
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Aren't you out on Disability er sumthun'?

What happen to your JOB? Has your boss seen these posts?

HA!

Great stuff Mike and congrats! That HUGE exhaust reminds me of the sign you had over your shop door a while back... and I see yur carrying on with the "theme"!

 
So...

The problem with my exhaust manifold is that it is for a 1300 engine. I would assume that it would work as the head was decked flat. Not so I guess. I'm literally a smidgen too tight against the support brace. My thoughts are I can either fill the manifold with sand, heat up the upright tubes and try to bend them enough to gain the clearance I need. Or... I can cut a wedge out on the the back side of the tubing at the weld seam at the manifold mount and bend. The trick would be to NOT cut it completely thru.

If I had the time, I'd grind off the weld and re-angle whilst hanging on the head. Heck, I might just do that anyways...
 
So...

Attempted to start the engine over today. I have gas, but unsure if I have the timing set up correctly. Also, I'm starting with the Allison ignition system I've set the cam a several degrees advance due to the head being shaved (Paul S. taught me a cool trick). I set the crank 12 BTDC as per the ignition set up instructions and I have a red LED on the unit. Crank, and no sputter, nothing. One thing I notice is that it trips my 5a circuit beaker when I let off the start button. I'm stumped.
 
I think there are several steps to getting the ignition setup correctly, did you follow the entire procedure? I don't recall all the detail, so I printed them out for when I'm ready to fire mine up.

Plugs must also be gapped much wider than stock .045" I think.
 
lookforjoe said:
I think there are several steps to getting the ignition setup correctly, did you follow the entire procedure? I don't recall all the detail, so I printed them out for when I'm ready to fire mine up.

Plugs must also be gapped much wider than stock .045" I think.
Click to expand...

Didn't even think about the spark plug gap.
 
Black-Tooth said:
... not too long ago... to ship your motor to Matt and let him build it... complete with dyno sheets when it comes back to ya.

MARK MY WORDS... and it'll probably be less expensive (and less frustrating) in long run.

Remember to ask him for your senior citizen's discount... OH, wait a minute, yur not old... too bad...

Chris offers up an entirely different perspective... I'd love to see these two on track! I bet their methods are as different as East is from the West, or even the Mid-West for matter!
Click to expand...


^ this.

What a fiasco this is turning out to be. After 3 days, still can not get the engine to run. It's like it's not even trying. Too many variables at once. New ported head with a lumpy cam. Dual dcnf's that have never been run (but were rebuilt by Matt). Allison Automotive distributorless ignition. All that, and it's spitting out of the #2 carb inlet. Suspected bad valve, and low compression confirms it, but pull head, close valves, and fill with WD40, no leaking. Check #2 cylinder and piston, full with WD40, let sit for 10 min, no leaking. I did find some irregularities with the head gasket seal, so I cleaned up the block surface and will use a new head gasket.

All this and I have to race this car on Saturday.

In the three years it's taken me to build this motor and xar, I should've just had Matt build the motor
 
rjplenter said:
I

I'd love to hear thoughts from SteveC, Hussein and Bernice.

Cheers,

Rob
Click to expand...

I'm not expert on this - I would set the cam 3-4º advanced, since this will actually put the cam close to stock, perhaps with a little advance.

On mine, since my new head is not shaved, I'm going to loosen the Miller's Mule cam gear, and set the cam a couple degrees advanced by checking lift.
 
With the head off I can set the cam to absolute tdc for the cyl #1 cam lobes. I just need to match the adj cam pulley to my marks.

I'm half inclined to put the single carb intake that came off this motor. That way I can take the dual DCNF's out of the equation.
 
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