Budget hi comp high(er) hp motor build

Mike... something bothers me about what you said...

1. "With the head off I can set the cam to absolute tdc for the cyl #1 cam lobes. I just need to match the adj cam pulley to my marks."

What the hell is that supposed ta mean? Cam to its MARK, Crank to its MARK, and Dizzy ready to fire on Number 4!

With this distributor-LESS ignition I don't know how yur supposed to do that.I'd invite Mr. Brown over and then chain him to the car until he figures this out for ya...

I too am sorry for all this trouble you are having and will not GLOAT over my own words... that are apparently now beginning to haunt you. I also don't understand the pressure about racing this Saturday. I'm glad you are actually functioning this well considering your recent past. There will be other races... Take care!
 
Black-Tooth said:
If so... CONGRATS...

What was the problem?
Click to expand...

A few seconds after that video ended, this happened.

4ci5.jpg


fuxrh.jpg

three bent valves and atleast 2 valve guides. All because the timing belt adj bearing wasn't fastened tightly. Nut fell of, belt fell of as I hit the kill switch. I had put that assy together 2 years ago, I should have rechecked it...
 
BTW Tony..

This race was a goal to get the Booger up and running AND make an attendance. It's also therapy for my recuperation.

The "fat rabbit" for the low cylinder #2 compression was a bad or not sealed head gasket. New head gasket solved that issue. As for the cam timing, there were way too many variables. Shaved head, fat cam and adjustable cam pulley with not one, but two timing marks.

Even tho' the engine committed hari kari, I did get it to run, which is a land mark considering none of these parts worked together. Now that I know it runs, its just a matter of fixing the borken parts and continuing on with the tuning.
 
Congrats on getting it running

...and having a positive attitude after it broke. I know the feeling - I bent all ten intake valves on a brand new build I had multiple startup issues with a few years ago... Very frustrating, but as you said, it did run eventually, and after that it was fix what broke & move on :)
 
Ouch

Damn Mike,

Thant sucks and makes me wonder if I even want to try to start the simple 1500/MWB head project I am attempting to finish. I am not sure my attitude would be as good as yours in the event of a failure like that.

What is it with you and failing valves lately???
 
JimD said:
Damn Mike,

Thant sucks and makes me wonder if I even want to try to start the simple 1500/MWB head project I am attempting to finish. I am not sure my attitude would be as good as yours in the event of a failure like that.

What is it with you and failing valves lately???
Click to expand...

Jim, I wouldn't let my misfortune shy you away. I built a high strung motor and it needs TLC. It'll always need TLC. As for the valves, well, they all can be repaired.
 
Mike - you were lucky

I am amazed that the damage was so little. I know it doesn't feel very lucky, but to loose a timing belt and only have to replace a few valves and guides is a lot better than it could have been. I don't see any significant damage from loose metal bits. We can get that put back together in no time.

Paul
 
Paul Stoltze said:
I am amazed that the damage was so little. I know it doesn't feel very lucky, but to loose a timing belt and only have to replace a few valves and guides is a lot better than it could have been. I don't see any significant damage from loose metal bits. We can get that put back together in no time.

Paul
Click to expand...

Yup, I was fully expecting pistons with holes in them. Luckily it stopped almost immediately when it failed. One of the valve guides was partially embedded into the #1 piston. Left a mark about the size od a grain of sand. I'll hit it lightly with a fine nylok.

I'll tear down the head on Monday, and see how much damage actually happened.
 
...and you actually MET YOUR GOAL!

The race was kinda short-lived though... but ya got it running!

You are someone to look up to in many respects... 1) being a soldier and serving our country... 2) surviving heart surgery... 3) rebuilding this engine just weeks after that surgery and 4) knowing what's really important and having the great attitude!~

Congrats on all counts!
 
Black-Tooth said:
The race was kinda short-lived though... but ya got it running!

You are someone to look up to in many respects... 1) being a soldier and serving our country... 2) surviving heart surgery... 3) rebuilding this engine just weeks after that surgery and 4) knowing what's really important and having the great attitude!~

Congrats on all counts!
Click to expand...

Thanks Tony, and thanks for your service as well. As well as the well wishes with the surgery, to be more precise, it was 2 open heart surgeries in 3.5 years. Seems this is the only way I could get this project done is some sort of major recuperation period!
 
That being said...

The Booger is complete. All items checked off (well, except for the passenger side seat). Rebuild head is back on, timing is set, but now I find myself reluctant to start it.

This to will pass...
 
I'm in data overload with these DCNF's

And probably way over thinking them. There are 3 mechanical adjustments on the carbs as far as I can tell. Idle mixture screws, Air bypass (correction) screw's and carb balance adjust between the carbs. Can anybody tell me (in layman's terms) what the idle mixture and air correction screws actually do? I really just need to understand there functions.
 
Well... we useta use...

1. Our ears and our butts.

2. Then we got something like this and insured what our ears and butts said were accurate.

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=81274&SortOrder=10

We then verified our findings with our ears and our butts again.

3. Here is another method used on (old) bikes, primarily...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/380765849257?lpid=82

4. Lastly, for some reason... I like this one the BEST!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOTION-PRO-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a1250cb7e&vxp=mtr

In all cases... try and make sure both (all?) carbs are PHYSICALLY operating in concert... then adjust the idle... then adjust the fuel/air ratio at idle. This is not as important on a LARGE engine... but every little bit makes a BIG difference with a SMALL engine.

The internal metering or jets, rods and tubes will have an ultimate effect on its running once the throttles are cracked, and especially when wide open. Along with your CENTRIFUGAL advance range, spring rate and rpm. Vacuum advances are usually NOT effective and are generally eliminated on multiple carb engines... with lots of "tuning" and years of messing around with the dizzy as well as the carbs to follow. (Remember Alex's joy-rides back in '06?)

HA!

Before long you will become and EXPERT at these things because you HAVE to... in order to have fun. There is NOTHING like the sound of these engines with a great header system and 4 wide open throats of the carbs!

Keep up the good work and I hope you find a synchronizer that works for you. They are primarily just for the IDLE though...

OH... looky here:

http://www.piercemanifolds.com/category_s/307.htm

Find synchronizer tools and ADAPTERS for DCOE's etc. I think I would call these folks, tell them of your carb type and ask their recommendation for TOOLS and TUNING KITS and TIPS...
 
A buddy of mine

Gave me a Motometer just like your first link. And I used to have one of these:

$_57.JPG


I know how to use one of them and I might figure out how to tap into the single barrel vacuum. This way you can adjust all 4 barrels simultaneously.

Oh, and Tony, I'm dizzy-less
 
I would prefer to have the pair on the right rather than the one on the left. Sorry couldn't resist.

Never seen that particular tool before, seems like it would be easier than doing each barrel separately.



Motorboat
 
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