I'll try to answer your questions the best I can and in some sort of order..
The engine is a 3+ year project that has gone under several reiterations. As it stands right now:
1500cc carb block with deck milled (planared)
ported and polished 1500 head, decked flat
Race cam (mfg and configuration unknown. Some sort of one off from Matt B.) valves are stock w/ heavy duty springs and Miller's Mule adj, cam pulley.
dual DCNF 40's. Rebuilt by Midwest-Bayless (jets/emulsion tube sizes unknown). Rebuilt with instructions to suit this engine configuration.
Long tube exhaust manifold
Pistons are in the 9.5:1 range
SCAT H-beam rods
crank journals are polished and flywheel lightened to 10.5# (crank/flywheel balanced as a single unit.)
Allison distributorless ignition
Timing is set for 0* at crank and 0* at cam (via adjusting cam pulley). dizzy is set for approximately 12* BTDC per Allisons instructions. When running, lowest possible rpm is about 1,000rpm. The timing mark at crank shows 5* (first notch). This is with timing light attached to #4 plug wire. With these settings, engine is responsive as you see in the video. As for idling, this is with throttle linkage disconnected and idle set screw backed off completely. Also note, I have not visually checked the carbs to see if the butterflies are slightly ajar. I know I have a slight vacuum leak on the #3 and #4 carb intake to head (verified by hitting area with starting fluid and rpm dipped.
Temperature issue is probably caused by me. I have a leak at the top radiator hose (front pass side) thanks to ebay silicon hoses. I'll swap them out with oem rubber hoses and recheck. Quick question, I'm running straight water (it had water wetter in it, but alas the leak). Should I continue using water or just throw some anti freeze in it? This is a non street legal race car, and will not have coolant in it over the winter. I'm sure timing and carb imbalance can contribute to heating issues as well.
Well, thats my story. any help would be greatly appreciated
Mike,
jigging the throttle like that can't help anyone diagnose anything...your simply actuating the pump jets and not giving any indication of the idle circuit, transition or the carb balance.
You need to hold the engine at idle, and then very slowly and steadily raise the revs to about 2000 and hold there for maybe 10 seconds, then 2500 and hold, then 3000 and hold... then we might be able to help you diagnose the problem.
I've searched thru this thread, and it's very scattered and can't find the actual current specs of the engine (static CR / cam duration and lift / cam timing) or carburettor specs....
I have read that Matt rebuilt the carbs, but simply getting bounced around during shipping can alter the float levels...have you checked them? Is the manifold correct for the engine tilt of the X19?
Do you know the internal specs of the carbs?
Idle jet
air corrector jet
main jet
emulsion tube
aux venturi
main venturi
pump jet
pump cam
needle and seat
What ignition static advance do you currently have?
where is your cam timing set?
have you done a leak down test since your timing belt mishap? the reason I ask is that besides the obviously bent valves in that picture, it is also obvious that valve to piston contact occured with some of the other valves as well... did you remove them all and check that they were not slightly 'tweeked'? (mount in a chuck and put a dial gauge on the valve heads periphery while rotating them?)
I know you've had several changes along the way, and a couple of mishaps... last thing you want is to overheat or damage the thing before you get a chance to drive it!
Is the cooling system bled entirely of all air?
Nothing simple like a slipping w/pump drive belt?
SteveC
