Coolant Pipe Rework Surprise! Pipe Maker?

In the past on other classic car forums I never wanted to ask to many questions for fear of being ridiculed. But on Xweb I find everyone genuinely wants to help! Must be the love for the misunderstood little Italian car.

Actually we are only helpful because we are worried that sometime in the future we may need help and hope by seeding quid pro quo that it will be forthcoming...

There is of course the deep state forum where we all go to make fun of you... :D
 
The new SS pipes have arrived and are very shinny! Although even though I presented Rick in NC with Dia dimensions on a drawing they took liberties with the coolant pipes Dia. I requested 1.5" dia yet the pipes are 1.25". The end sections are almost 1.4" which should work ok with the new hose kit I have, I hope.
Cooling Pipes.jpg Pipes Engine End.jpg

The piggybacked heater pipes fit well in the box and up thru the hump into the interior together.
Heater Pipes Stacked.jpg Pipe Ends.jpg

So either they don't have 1.5" SS or the original set they did for Paul Davock was 1.25" and they didn't want to change their computer files.

And here is the pretty new heater pipe waiting to get hooked up.
Heater Pipe.jpg

Still waiting for the 1/2" roll of SS to arrive that I will be bonding over all the holes in the box tunnel.

Stay tuned for more...
 

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I presented Rick in NC with Dia dimensions on a drawing they took liberties with the coolant pipes Dia. I requested 1.5" dia yet the pipes are 1.25".
Sounds like they failed to meet the terms of your purchase agreement. I'd get them to redo them correctly at no charge.
 
The difference in diameters might be a metal tubing manufacturing thing I didn't know about. Like a 2"x4" piece of wood is really like 1 3/4"x 3 1/2". My know how is in plastics not metal or wood.

I'll test mount a hose and if it's nice and tight then it won't make any difference. I do wonder how they expand the ends of the cooling pipes to a larger dia like they are. Do they heat the ends then insert something that expands the pipes?
 
Exhaust "tubing" is accurately called "pipe" and measured by the ID. So a 1.5" pipe is actually bigger than 1.5" on the OD (usually under 1.75" depending on the wall thickness).
 
Are you measuring the inside diameter or the outside.

The stock exxe tubes are 1-3/8" outside diameter and 5/8" outside diameter. 1-3/8" is an oddball size. 1-1/4", 1-1/2" are very common for tubes.

RZSR X, can you get some close-ups of the ends for both? Almost looks like it's a sleeve that was welded on.
 
I'm the one guilty for causing this difference in tube dimension. When Rick and and me discussed this set of coolant tubes for the exxe about a decade ago, we decided to use the SST tubing they had as normal stock. This is the same seamless stainless tubing they use for NASCAR coolant and other race car coolant systems. It is very high quality tubing and the difference in diameter is not too significant in the overall scheme of the cooling system.

Know the original tubing used in the exxe is metric, due to the USA industry remaining as imperial standards, the identical metric size to OEM is not realistic. BRMS does not have 1.5" tubing as a standard size, as previously written. The coolant tubes for the Lancia Scorpion-MonteCarlo were 1.5" which was special ordered for that group of coolant tubes. This 1.5" tube is too big to fit into the exxe coolant tube box. There will also be difficulty fitting the hoses on to the tube ends.

The 1.25" coolant tubes presented a problem when fitted to the OEM coolant hose which is metric. Initially Rick suggested using a T-bolt or similar clamp to cinch down the hose to create a seal. My reply was no. This is how the welded-built up ends with beads were implemented as a workable solution to the inch to metric tube transition. The other adders were the drains similar to OEM at the bottom of these tubes.

There ya have it, this is the history of how these coolant tubes came to be for the entire exxe community.


Bernice




The new SS pipes have arrived and are very shinny! Although even though I presented Rick in NC with Dia dimensions on a drawing they took liberties with the coolant pipes Dia. I requested 1.5" dia yet the pipes are 1.25". The end sections are almost 1.4" which should work ok with the new hose kit I have, I hope.

So either they don't have 1.5" SS or the original set they did for Paul Davock was 1.25" and they didn't want to change their computer files.

Stay tuned for more...
 
Yes, they are a stainless steel sleeve specifically made to match the stock metric size hose, then TIG welded to the end of the 1.25" tube. As previously mentioned, this was our solution to making the transition from imperial sized tubing to metric sized tubing.


Bernice

RZSR X, can you get some close-ups of the ends for both? Almost looks like it's a sleeve that was welded on.
 
darwoodious, Bernice,

Now that makes sense. The tubing is 1.25 (OD with my calipers) as can be read on the pipe in the second image and not an oddball 1-3/8". Thus the larger welded on ends with beads.

The previous owner made the copper pipes without beads so he must have gone with the 1.5" OD for a very tight fit. Good to know you did all the leg work for the rest of us Bernice. And Rick just ignored my OD dimension because he knew better!
 
No idea how many sets of these coolant tubes were made by BMRS over the decades. If there were problem, most would have surfaced by now then corrected.

This is essentially how these stainless steel coolant tubes came to be and why they should work when ordered as originally designed.


Bernice
 
Rick at BMRS is interested in a follow up on how well my 2nd heater pipe with the two small dimension changes fits once completely imstalled.

Then the educated guess work will be taken care of for anyone else that would like to run both heater pipes in the tunnel box.

At which point I will actually be adding info to the forum instead of always taking away!
 
The new SS pipes have arrived and are very shinny! Although even though I presented Rick in NC with Dia dimensions on a drawing they took liberties with the coolant pipes Dia. I requested 1.5" dia yet the pipes are 1.25". The end sections are almost 1.4" which should work ok with the new hose kit I have, I hope.
View attachment 8258 View attachment 8259

The piggybacked heater pipes fit well in the box and up thru the hump into the interior together.
View attachment 8260 View attachment 8261

So either they don't have 1.5" SS or the original set they did for Paul Davock was 1.25" and they didn't want to change their computer files.

And here is the pretty new heater pipe waiting to get hooked up.
View attachment 8262

Still waiting for the 1/2" roll of SS to arrive that I will be bonding over all the holes in the box tunnel.

Stay tuned for more...

RZSR X - You must have been the customer for the other set that was being made when I ordered mine. Thanks, they made mine the same day I ordered because yours were being made that day. Rick did let me know about the 1.25" diameter. I specified drain plugs in the stock location and they did an excellent job with placement. If anyone else would like to get these tubes with the drains located in the stock location just let Rick know you want to use the locations I specified.
 
Yep that was you. Yours were for a race car without the tunnel box so the drain location didn't matter but another forum member said that location ends up In The Box!

So best to move the drains forward and clear of the box. 4" minimum as I recall him posting.
 
Yes, they are for a racecar (sucks to have a pipe leak at a race!). But the drains I had them put in are in the stock location so they would fit outside the box. 26.75" back from the front of the tubes, and rotated to the side far enough that they are above the lowest point.
 
I may have missed it mentioned earlier in the thread, but anyone care to share a ballpark cost on these tubes?
 
I may have missed it mentioned earlier in the thread, but anyone care to share a ballpark cost on these tubes?
I paid $235 each for the cooling tubes. I believe I was quoted $90 for the heater tube. Shipping was fast and reasonable.
 
On Monday I covered the drilled through holes on the sides of the tunnel box with Fusor 112B slow and about 9 pieces of SS.
Today when I checked it out I found the Fusor was still sticky and not a solid hard glue like I was picturing it to be.

Is this a bad or old batch Fusor? The packaging says don't use after 24 months but best by 18 months. The tube has 2016 printed on it. It also says it should be cured in 8 hours and it's been 2 days.

Now the dilemma - do I continue to use it for the strips that are going to cover all the lip holes and from there count on it for the tunnel box mounting to the X?

Here is the product at Lord Fusor:
https://www.lord.com/products-and-solutions/adhesives/fusor-112b113b-metal-bonding-adhesive-(slow)

I bought It off Amazon at ToolDeals.

Thanks,

Carl
 
Just to clarify - you bought the dispenser gun & the mixing nozzles that premix the 2 part as it exits the nozzle, correct?

What temp is it where the car is located?

The Lord products I have used all harden well within the window they give - in my case Lord Fusor 116B & then 208B - fibreglass to metal, not metal to metal. Principal is the same, and assuming you made sure metal was bare in contact & not exceeding 1" width, and temp in car location is at least 65ºF, it should have cured in the given time frame.

Sounds like you may want to either raise the temp & see if it cures, or strip it all off & get a refund from the vendor.
 
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