Electronic Ignition setup

AKimball92

AKimball92

True Classic
So I have posted of this multiple times I know, but now I have the full system, plus a few bit of extra pieces. Looking for advice on which to use as is or to do the HEI mod whether in the box our out of it.

Towards the end of this thread by Bob Brown I acquired a Yugo electronic ignition containing this dizzy which is shot and needs full rebuild. I won't be using this because I recently received an dizzy and The Box from someone on Facebook. This one does not have the attached wiring. I hate to admit it but some of the descriptions towards my Yugo controller vs the other went over my head.... :confused:

Would it be best to use the new dizzy with the (1)large box, (2) large box with upgraded GE HEI controller, (3) loose HEI controller, or (4) the Yugo controller.

Yugo controller pic here: Bosch 0-227-100-123 IMG-2397.jpg. How does the Yugo controller compare to the X1/9 box or the HEI system?

I do not have the wiring for The Box but I do have it for the Yugo controller, including the 2 pin connector that fits both distributors. I do not have the 6 pin that fits The Box. It appears to be different from the Yugo controller.

Also I would like to attend a cruise on 10/3 if I can get the car to not shake. Two new hopefully round tires are in the mail to replace the one bad tire. I believe my carb is good enough but will drive and further test tires and carb out tomorrow.
 
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AKimball92 said:
So I have posted of this multiple times I know, but now I have the full system, plus a few bit of extra pieces. Looking for advice on which to use as is or to do the HEI mod whether in the box our out of it.

Towards the end of this thread by Bob Brown I acquired a Yugo electronic ignition containing this dizzy which is shot and needs full rebuild. I won't be using this because I recently received an dizzy and The Box from someone on Facebook. This one does not have the attached wiring. I hate to admit it but some of the descriptions towards my Yugo controller vs the other went over my head.... :confused:

Would it be best to use the new dizzy with the (1)large box, (2) large box with upgraded GE HEI controller, (3) loose HEI controller, or (4) the Yugo controller.

Yugo controller pic here: Bosch 0-227-100-123 View attachment 36699. How does the Yugo controller compare to the X1/9 box or the HEI system?

I do not have the wiring for The Box but I do have it for the Yugo controller, including the 2 pin connector that fits both distributors. I do not have the 6 pin that fits The Box. It appears to be different from the Yugo controller.

Also I would like to attend a cruise on 10/3 if I can get the car to not shake. Two new hopefully round tires are in the mail to replace the one bad tire. I believe my carb is good enough but will drive and further test tires and carb out tomorrow.
Click to expand...
I ran a Yugo Bosch distributor with the Yugo ignition module pictured along with the Yugo wires and clips. It worked just fine on my 1500 X 1/9 SCCA H production road race car. I like to have the car ready a month before the event. That gives me time to work out the fine tuning. If yours is a technical event, and the folks there have expertise that you trust, show up with a non op car and hope they will fix it for you
 
johnph said:
I ran a Yugo Bosch distributor with the Yugo ignition module pictured along with the Yugo wires and clips. It worked just fine on my 1500 X 1/9 SCCA H production road race car. I like to have the car ready a month before the event. That gives me time to work out the fine tuning. If yours is a technical event, and the folks there have expertise that you trust, show up with a non op car and hope they will fix it for you
Click to expand...

Sounds like I should install option 4 tomorrow and see how it goes, X1/9 dizzy with the Yugo controller. Both the Fiat and the Yugo dizzy look to have the same vacuum advance or retard attachment. For the life of me I can't keep them straight on if either is different or which one is prefer.

My event is a cruise among coworkers, however 1.5 hours away, While knowledgeable, only one has ever worked on a Fiat and his dad actually raced x1/9s in the distant past in Kansas. I doubt he or anyone would know odd details like this for a less than popular non American muscle car in the middle of Detroit.
 
I doubt the Yugo module will be compatible with the X1/9 electronic distributor, but I'm not sure. Since you do have the small two-wire plug that fits the X1/9 electronic distributor, then I'd use that dizzy and forget about all of the (unusable) Yugo parts. But because you don't have the large connector and wire harness for the stock Bosch ignition module (large box), then I wouldn't use the box at all. That way you can wire a GM module easily by making a custom wire harness to fit it. Only 1/4" quick-connect (slip-on) crimp or solder connectors are needed, and therefore it won't require the large plug. Plus it's my understanding the GM module is improved over the stock one. So X1/9 dizzy, Yogo small 2-wire plug, GM module, and make a simple custom harness to connect them.
 
I feel like we had this discussion before - if the Yugo dist. has the same trigger wheel setup as the X1/9 dist., then there is no reason not to use the the Bosch power stage (controller) since you have all the wiring for that. I'd choose Bosch over GM :D
 
The Yugo Bosch ignition controller would be preferable, they are much more reliable than the GM chip. Many use that or a similar version of that chip for aftermarket injection systems to control spark.
 
Just to cover your bases, the Bosch module you show is very similar to the one used on Volvo 740 Turbos; it needs to be mounted with heat transfer paste under it (and securely fastened!) to control operating temperature.
 
The two dizzy part numbers are:
X1/9: 0-237-002-058
Yugo: 0-237-002-129

it’s only the last digits that differ. What’s the difference between the parts?
 
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AKimball92 said:
The two dizzy shots are:
X1/9: 0-237-002-058
Yugo: 0-237-002-129

it’s only the last digits that differ. What’s the difference between the parts?
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Those are the Bosch part numbers, not Fiat or Yugo manufacturer numbers per se. The units likely also have a different number on each that represents the Fiat and Yugo parts numbers.
So the Bosch numbers are more generic, representing the general style of distributor, overall size/configuration, advance curve, electrical properties, basic application, etc. They group the numbers into three digits, each group applying to a category of description. If you want a specific breakdown of what each group of numbers means, you might find some old Bosch info online. However you may not find those exact numbers any more.

To help illustrate how the numbers work, here is a chart for some old VW Bosch distributors with a similar design as ours:

And to see how Bosch has superseded a whole lot of old part numbers into a much smaller group of replacement parts, see this page:

Ignition distributor

Bosch Classic, ignition distributor
www.bosch-classic.com www.bosch-classic.com
 
There are two different Bosch part numbers for the X distributor. One is for the carb models and one is for the FI cars. The FI model has a much more suitable advance curve than the carb model unless you are into keeping the emission controls.
 
Jefco said:
Just to cover your bases, the Bosch module you show is very similar to the one used on Volvo 740 Turbos; it needs to be mounted with heat transfer paste under it (and securely fastened!) to control operating temperature.
Click to expand...

YES - I meant to mention that there is a heatsink that needs to be used with it.

Looks like this:

PXL_20230913_215504316.thumb.jpg.ae7a0e0286272fb75c268fa0d9fa0fc6.jpg
 
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The Fuel Injection Distributor # is 0237002050. Also here is a comparison of there advance differences. Noting that the carb is based on 5 degree static advance and the fuel injected is based on 10 degree static advance.

1601163813863.png

1601163829764.png

Advance specification will depend on your engine specification and fuel used.

I have a fuel injected distributor with the vacuum advance removed (2X DCNF etc.). I modified the mechanical advance mechanism to increase the amount of total advance to suit my engine. Prior to the modification, the engine fell flat at higher RPM. I drove with the access cover removed so i could "play" with the timing while driving at various RPM and found the best timing advance characteristics for my engine. If I had the static advanced to the point of good performance it would not turn over with the starter. This is why I changed the mechanical advance - keeps the static at a reasonable advance but then allows the engine to pull strong throughout the RPM range I use.
 
Coming back to this - someone on the TB forum pointed out this module (0 227 100 123, BMW 12141273298) would have also worked on the Datsun, since it has the same pickup requirement (as the X1/9). Searching that part number brought up this post. If I had found the Bosch # earlier, I think I would have gone this route since it keeps everything in the bay + waterproof & potentially cooler than in the cabin with limited air circulation.

The question would be, finding the schematic to match the appropriate I/O, since we only need 5 of the 7 wire connections for the Fiat or Datsun install.
 
AKimball92 said:
The two dizzy part numbers are:
X1/9: 0-237-002-058
Yugo: 0-237-002-129

it’s only the last digits that differ. What’s the difference between the parts?
Click to expand...
My 1996 Bosch Ignition parts catalog shows 002-129 for Yugo, and shows no 002-058. It does show 0 237 002 050 for 80 -88 X 1/9 (FI).
 
Brad Garska said:
The Fuel Injection Distributor # is 0237002050. Also here is a comparison of there advance differences. Noting that the carb is based on 5 degree static advance and the fuel injected is based on 10 degree static advance.

View attachment 36716
View attachment 36717
Advance specification will depend on your engine specification and fuel used.

I have a fuel injected distributor with the vacuum advance removed (2X DCNF etc.). I modified the mechanical advance mechanism to increase the amount of total advance to suit my engine. Prior to the modification, the engine fell flat at higher RPM. I drove with the access cover removed so i could "play" with the timing while driving at various RPM and found the best timing advance characteristics for my engine. If I had the static advanced to the point of good performance it would not turn over with the starter. This is why I changed the mechanical advance - keeps the static at a reasonable advance but then allows the engine to pull strong throughout the RPM range I use.
Click to expand...
I had to do the opposite on my Ducelier distributor. It had way too much centrifugal advance, perhaps to offset the vacuum retard. My camshaft wants 20 degrees static and low 30s above 3,000 rpm so I only needed a bit more than 10 degrees centrifugal. I made a blocking plate to limit how far the weights could move and used weaker springs to get full advance by ~3,000 rpm.
 
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