FFO 2022 the old guys will attend

TonyK

True Classic
This year Bob Martin and I will be attending FFO 2022. The intent is that we will trailer 2 cars together. So let us back up a bit. My wife Sarina purchased a 2017 Fiat 124 Spyder with 5,000 miles on it. She has been attending FFO with me since 2005 and finally at Green's Borough said I want my own car and that is what she did. Now comes the conflict, who's car to take to an event. So, searching the intra net I found the solution, a stacker trailer. A custom stacker trailer. Well as events go the issue at hand was that there was a conflict for FFO 2022. Sarina has a business trip to attend in Jamaica with 12 other ladies and it is the same dates as FFO 2022. The solution was that Bob Martin and I will attend together. Just to let you know Bob is stage 4 prostrate cancer. He is doing fine currently, gets a bit tired through the day but is managing. Confronted with all of this I made a decision to source out a manufacture that builds stacker trailers. I don't need to move 2 Escalades but rather 2 Fiat's. I need an enclosed 20 foot trailer with an interior head room of 9' ( feet). Simple. But what I got was argument and reasons why I should have 11 feet clearance and 24 feet in length. All costing a lot of money that at this time I said well this is plain stupid. I found one local builder that said he could do it and then 3 months ago backed out he was just too busy to take on the project. The solution is that Bob and I will rent a 24' flat bed trailer from Grimsby Ontario and I have built some ramps from 2 X 12's that are 14' long and will install 40' of E track to secure my car, then trailer to Bob's and load his car and a day or so latter and the adventure will begin as my Ram 2500 with a 6.7 Cummins manual 6 speed hits the road for the Woodlands Texas. I will update this thread as we proceed to FFO 2022.

So I have a few pictures for you. The trailer that I had hoped to have built for the trip and the ramps that I have currently built to load the 2 cars on the flat bed trailer.

Say a prayer. FFO here we come.

TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada.

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BrettM

1981 RHD X1/9
I look forward to seeing you both at the FFO. When are you leaving to head south? I am leaving the Sunday prior to the event and going down a little early.
 

NigelProdrive

True Classic
Why isn't a longer non-stacker enclosed 2 car trailer offering better gas mileage an option? More floor space. if you aren't taking both cars toss the patio furniture inside to use to lounge in, have shaded shelter from rain while car inside, tools, ..... I have 4 different car trailers. Not a stacker fan. Aerodynamics of a barn with silo.
 
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Brayden_connolly

True Classic
Keep things simple and keep the cgs low, I have a 28' tag trailer that fits 2 X1/9s, its a bit tight but only because I added a work bench on the front wall.

A 26' would work fine and leave room for 2 without needing to pull bumpers.
 

Dr.Jeff

True Classic
Tony, be sure to test those 14' 2x12 ramps a few times before it gets too late. I built some like that and found they won't support the X's weight when all four wheels are on them. The length of the ramps seems to be the issue as that allows the full weight of the car to be suspended along the middle of the span as it is being loaded onto the trailer. Shorter ramps will hold the weight but significantly increase the approach angle. Perhaps you have better quality wood there though. I went to aluminum ramps and even then I had to add a steel reinforcement "spine" along the back side to keep them from bowing with a long span ramp.
 

kmead

Old enough to know better
Periodic vertical supports from the ground to the ramp will keep them from bowing under load. Easy to make and affix in the field so they an stow flat.
 

JKIDD

Auto Addict
Tony, be sure to test those 14' 2x12 ramps a few times before it gets too late. I built some like that and found they won't support the X's weight when all four wheels are on them. The length of the ramps seems to be the issue as that allows the full weight of the car to be suspended along the middle of the span as it is being loaded onto the trailer. Shorter ramps will hold the weight but significantly increase the approach angle. Perhaps you have better quality wood there though. I went to aluminum ramps and even then I had to add a steel reinforcement "spine" along the back side to keep them from bowing with a long span ramp.
You always add a "T" board vertically & taper the end for the ground. Essentially making a truss to support more weight.
 

TonyK

True Classic
Why isn't a longer non-stacker enclosed 2 car trailer offering better gas mileage an option? More floor space. if you aren't taking both cars toss the patio furniture inside to use to lounge in, have shaded shelter from rain while car inside, tools, ..... I have 4 different car trailers. Not a stacker fan. Aerodynamics of a barn with silo.
Well that is why I want the 9' height and shorter trailer. 28' is getting long and it takes up room to store as well. I could have a bench in front like you with a 20'. My 2014 ram with manual transmission and 6.7 Cummins is very good on fuel. On recent trips from my house to Bob's in Kentucky I average 23.5 miles to the US gallon.

TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada.
 

TonyK

True Classic
Tony, be sure to test those 14' 2x12 ramps a few times before it gets too late. I built some like that and found they won't support the X's weight when all four wheels are on them. The length of the ramps seems to be the issue as that allows the full weight of the car to be suspended along the middle of the span as it is being loaded onto the trailer. Shorter ramps will hold the weight but significantly increase the approach angle. Perhaps you have better quality wood there though. I went to aluminum ramps and even then I had to add a steel reinforcement "spine" along the back side to keep them from bowing with a long span ramp.
The ramps will be supported in 4' intervals with solid blocks and jack stands. We will also look for areas where we can use a slight grade or hill to make the distance a bit shorter and more flat to load and unload the cars.

Thanks for the comments.

TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada.
 

TonyK

True Classic
I look forward to seeing you both at the FFO. When are you leaving to head south? I am leaving the Sunday prior to the event and going down a little early.
Brett we will be leaving Sunday morning from Bob's place in Kentucky as well and expect to take 2 1/2 days to get there.

TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada.
 

Dr.Jeff

True Classic
Periodic vertical supports from the ground to the ramp will keep them from bowing under load. Easy to make and affix in the field so they an stow flat.
You always add a "T" board vertically & taper the end for the ground. Essentially making a truss to support more weight.
Unfortunately adding vertical "T" supports was not possible due to the terrain where I load and unload my trailer. The combination of it being soft and very uneven ground meant I would have to use different height ones every time; perhaps stacking blocks, or adjustable extensions, plus add footings under them. And I did not want to have to do all that...I wanted to keep it quick, easy, and simple. Also with my physical handicap I was trying to keep things as lightweight as possible, to maneuver them without the extra supports if avoidable. That's why I went to aluminum ramps. But they still bowed more than I liked until I added a extra spine to the back side. I dream of getting a nice custom enclosed trailer with better ramps and other accessories. Although my car building days are coming closer to ending so it likely won't happen.
 

Longitudinal

True Classic
Unfortunately adding vertical "T" supports was not possible due to the terrain where I load and unload my trailer.

I would go for it even if you have to compromise them at the ends. Keep in mind that the ramp is loaded differently in the middle from how it is at the ends. The load at the ends is more like a shear load, whereas the load in the center is a bending load. The middle part is where the brace is really stiffening the ramp, even if it is compromised at the ends. Feather the T member back far enough to allow it to work on your terrain, and you are still better off.
 

TonyK

True Classic
Thanks for all of the comments. Your concerns have been addressed in the build. Today I picked up the trailer. It is 24' 4" long and an X1/9 is 12'".8" long. So a bit of both cars will hang over the front and rear of the trailer by about 12". I can live with that. The ramps I built needed a change in the attachment so that is what I worked on today. I will have to drill a hole in the back C channel on the trailer to insert a 5" x 1/" bolt to hold the ramp to the trailer. I will weld it back in when I return the trailer in 3 weeks. The trailer deck boards are 2x6's and only secured at the splice point and each end and are not suitable for E track attachment. I then used long Teck screws to secure the boards that the E track will be fastened to. So... I figured out the track of the car and chalk lined the track of the car on the deck of the trailer so that the E track can be secured. The trailer is 32" off of the ground so, I will bring a short step ladder to access the deck and the cars. Tomorrow I will load my 87 Abarth powered X1/9 on the trailer and move all of it into the barn waiting for Thursday night to load up the truck with tools and spare parts for the trip to Bob Martins. To move the trailer around my yard I use my John Deere 2032 R tractor with a 2, 5/16" ball on the draw bar. The tractor is nimble and I have great visibility of where the trailer is when backing up. I will be working on this tomorrow and will update then.

TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada.

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TonyK

True Classic
Yesterday and today I worked on preparing the trailer to carry 2 X1/9's. First thing I noticed was there were some loose deck boards which were 2x8 or 2x6's. The boards were only fastened at each side of the joint and the other end is captivated by a length of C channel. Hmmm. To make this work I purchased 40' of E track to be screwed to the deck boards. To firm things up I drilled the deck and installed new counter sink Teck screws on every steel cross member to the board that I will have the E track fastened to. I also installed Teck screws through the E track at every intersection of steel frame on the trailer. So what I have is a secured board from front to back on the trailer. E track secured to the board and at 16" intervals the Etrack secured through the board to the steel structure of the trailer. I spent hours doing this. With this completed I loaded my car and used blocks to support the ramp boards. I did not screw the blocks to the ramp boards and this was a mistake as one shifted as I put the car on the trailer. Nothing happened and the car is now loaded in the centre of the trailer for the trip to Bob Martin's in Kentucky. When at Bob's I will move my car back toward the head board and Bob's car will be nose to nose with my car with about 2" between each car. I moved the trailer into my barn for the next few days. Having a 2 5/16" ball on my 3 point hitch on the trailer is very easy to back the trailer into the barn. Here are a few pictures.

TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada
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kmead

Old enough to know better
Yesterday and today I worked on preparing the trailer to carry 2 X1/9's. First thing I noticed was there were some loose deck boards which were 2x8 or 2x6's. The boards were only fastened at each side of the joint and the other end is captivated by a length of C channel. Hmmm. To make this work I purchased 40' of E track to be screwed to the deck boards. To firm things up I drilled the deck and installed new counter sink Teck screws on every steel cross member to the board that I will have the E track fastened to. I also installed Teck screws through the E track at every intersection of steel frame on the trailer. So what I have is a secured board from front to back on the trailer. E track secured to the board and at 16" intervals the Etrack secured through the board to the steel structure of the trailer. I spent hours doing this. With this completed I loaded my car and used blocks to support the ramp boards. I did not screw the blocks to the ramp boards and this was a mistake as one shifted as I put the car on the trailer. Nothing happened and the car is now loaded in the centre of the trailer for the trip to Bob Martin's in Kentucky. When at Bob's I will move my car back toward the head board and Bob's car will be nose to nose with my car with about 2" between each car. I moved the trailer into my barn for the next few days. Having a 2 5/16" ball on my 3 point hitch on the trailer is very easy to back the trailer into the barn. Here are a few pictures.

TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada
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Any through bolts with washers and nuts going through a plank and that hold down track? I know, belt and suspenders but there are some bumps in the roads ahead…

I hope Texas isn’t too flat so you can get the cars off using an embankment :)

Safe travels!
 

Dan Sarandrea (Phila)

Waitin' On Parts...
I seem to remember that conventional wisdom states one should always tow/haul an X nose-forward, due to the perceived possibility of the windstream getting up under the rear overhang of the targa top and peeling it off at high speed.

Of course, if this is a concern, one could always use a suitable rachet strap(s) and cushioning to secure the top.
 

NigelProdrive

True Classic
I seem to remember that conventional wisdom states one should always tow/haul an X nose-forward, due to the perceived possibility of the windstream getting up under the rear overhang of the targa top and peeling it off at high speed.

Truth: I lost a Scorpion roof towing backasswards. I got it back but was destroyed.
 

autox19

True Classic
I seem to remember that conventional wisdom states one should always tow/haul an X nose-forward, due to the perceived possibility of the windstream getting up under the rear overhang of the targa top and peeling it off at high speed.

Of course, if this is a concern, one could always use a suitable rachet strap(s) and cushioning to secure the top.
I am not sure pulling it with a John Deere it will go fast enough for that... :)

Odie
 

kmead

Old enough to know better
I seem to remember that conventional wisdom states one should always tow/haul an X nose-forward, due to the perceived possibility of the windstream getting up under the rear overhang of the targa top and peeling it off at high speed.

Of course, if this is a concern, one could always use a suitable rachet strap(s) and cushioning to secure the top.
That actually occurred as an owner was pulling their car to the MWB Open House a couple of months ago to a Saratoga Top o_O
 

TonyK

True Classic
I have always pulled the car in reverse as I need to put weight on the front of the tractor and the engine is at the back end of the car. I have a loop that connects the roof to the E brake with a ratchet strap to secure it from lifting off. The deck boards of the trailer where the E track is fastened is screwed with TECK screws to each cross member. I installed these. Then at each cross member a long 2" teck screw fastens the E track to the trailer frame. The rest of the E track is secured every other hole with 1 1/2" deck screws execpt the ends where 5 holes on either side are screwed to the deck board. I will check it at stops and have other strapps that I can ratchet to the car and secure it further. Just a note, each wheel is fastened to the E track I only put on 2 when I moved the trailer with the John Deere tractor.

To get both cars on the trailer I need to let the back ends of each car hang over. One car must be placed on backwards. Bob Martin agrees with you about only placing a car facing forward so his car can face forward and mine backward and both cars will be nose to nose.

Thanks for the comments.

Wheels up 5:00 AM Friday morning.

TonyK.
 
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