Headlamps dim
- Thread starter chumley
- Start date
Steve Thomas
True Classic
Poor headights probably means that the 4 pin connector into the ignition switch has a burned/melted pin and if it does, the ignition switch itself may be damaged. Yes, the relay fix works but you should check this connector as it will impact wiper and radiator fan as well as headlights etc.
Steve Thomas
True Classic
Depending on your year - maybe this
and regardless, definitely this
xwebforums.com
Low Beam Headlight Relay Mod for late fuse box X1/9 85-88
This is a tutorial to improve low beam light output and reduce the load on the light switch, column switch and the ignition switch by adding a relay to supply power to fuses 3 and 4 with minimal wiring changes or additions. This modification will compliment the existing high beam relay which...
xwebforums.com
and regardless, definitely this
Headlights - X1/9 Wiki
kmead
Old enough to know better
Welcome. It would be helpful for those helping you if you put some base information about your car in your signature, Year, AC or no AC, major modifications etc. There were basically three primary wiring systems in the X over the years (thus why the links Steve offered show very different solutions) so knowing what you have helps us direct you to or provide advice and info which will help you most. Help us help you
Most of the kits you see use substandard guages of wiring, if you are at all handy with wire crimping or want to become good at crimping, this is a great opportunity.
Bob Brown, one of our forum members, made very nice sets which replaced much of the existing wiring and added four relays (two per side, high and low beams) with new sockets. Once in a while you will see them for sale.
The reasons for poor light output start with the connection in the fuse box that brings power to the brown wire which feeds power to the ignition switch. This junction can become overheated and the connectors become loose. The next area is at the other end of that brown wire at the connection to the ignition switch harness which can also become overheated, after that the connections in the switch itself where high loads can degrade the metal contacts due to heat. Further down the chain is the light switch itself which is an X specific part which also can suffer from carboning up and overheating. After that, the connections in the fuse box can be problematic as the fuses may no longer fit well and followed by the connections to the bulbs themselves and finally the ground connection back to the body can be compromised by corrosion.
To start resolving the problem check the simple things first, which on any old car are the grounding connections. Upgrading the main ground wire from the battery to the body is an easy step as is making sure the bolted connection at the body. Follow that up with the ground connection of the wire to the ground bloom and unbolting the bloom from the body to clean that connection (doing this step around the car can improve function across the car if you clean up the various ground blooms and ground wire connectors).
Folow that with verifying the quality of the supply connections I mention above. There are many web sites where you can find info about cleaning electrical connectors and the materials to use, lots of opinions around this so I will duck that discourse. Each connection is a potential voltage loss so ensuring the wiring connectors are clean and tight will improve things.
The ignition switch is hard to take apart to clean the contacts within, they can be taken apart by drilling out the rivets and then reassembling using long screws with nuts. There is a MiraFiori.com how to around taking apart the 124 ignition switch, the X switch is very similar. Midwest-Bayless.com does offer a new Italian made ignition switch if that is faulty and can’t be serviced (you loose the connection to the key warning chime).
https://www.mirafiori.com/faq/content/switch/switch.html
https://www.mirafiori.com/faq/content/switch/index.html
There is some discussion about how to improve things with relays in those links instead of the ‘brown wire fix’ which puts more power into the ignition switch which can accelerate the degradation of the ignition switch.
The headlight switch is another area where heat and carbon buildup can reduce the power transfer to the lights themselves can happen. This switch is now rare (some versions of it extremely rare) but can be taken apart to be cleaned. Some internal parts of the switch are common to other switches which were used in Xs. Here a few links to this procedure, I think there are a few more around here as well: https://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/switch-internals.44634/post-432276
80-82 headlight switch repair
My headlights haven't been 100% reliable switching-on and I suspect my switch is a little flaky so I disassembled it. Some of the contacts were a little cruddy and the spring loaded arms that slide across the contact arms are worn -- especially one of them. I'm planning to clean all the...
xwebforums.com
The fuse connections can also be cleaned up like any other wiring connection and the tangs re-bent to provide better contact to the fuse depending on the version of your fuse box. There are also new fuse box assemblies where you can replace the existing ‘torpedo’ fuse approach with the modern blade type boxes. A Ukrainian company, LadaPower.com offers good servicable units which can be wired up to replace the now quite old fuse assemblies in the car and get rid of the those half length torpedo fuses you may have.
Lada Niva / 2101-2107 Fuse Box + Fuses EURO (13 fuses)
Lada Niva / 2101-2107 Fuse Box + Fuses EURO (13 fuses) Electric 1600
Updated Fuse Block for Early Cars
Bought this 13 ATC fuse block from Ladapower: http://www.ladapower.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&view=productdetails&virtuemart_product_id=2501&virtuemart_category_id=46...
xwebforums.com
Then there is adding a kit as you first asked about:
Inexpensive headlight relay kit from Amazon
I have been working my way through upgrading the lighting on my 85X. This past week I installed LEDs in the tail lights, front and rear turn signals and reverse lights. I put the proper LED flasher in the relay tray. Somehow, I forgot to order the marker LEDs and license plate LEDs. I will get...
xwebforums.com
And finally jumping over many of the electrical issues, one can go to the Jeep 7” LED headlights which some have chosen to reduce the power load and increase output all in one simple replacement. That they are bizarre looking on an old car is less of an issue with the X due to them being stowed most of the time.
I hope some of that helps.
Ok so did some cleaning of earths today and i want to do the brown wire mod so to clarify i found connection in fuse box with spare terminal can i just connect extra wire to this spare. I also read about joining by ignition switch aswell there is a slightly smaller diameter brown coming from connection in to loom do i have to do both or is it either or also noticed small drip from brake master cylinder while i was under there so looks like im gonna be busy
ecohen2
True Classic
After doing the Brown Wire fix and switching to LED headlights I have to say mine are brighter than my other cars. If you go the LED route, make sure you to get the lumen and temperature rating for the headlights. So many people buy LEDs online and end up with something that are dim or very blue, which is horrible..
kmead
Old enough to know better
One can add a second supply wire to the connection block there. This connection block can overheat from the amount of heat generated if one or more of the wire connections is dirty and or loose. One could leave it as is and instead run the new supply wire to supply new relays.
If you add inline fuses to power the relays for the headlights, there is much less need to run a second supply wire to the ignition switch. Personally I am not a fan of putting more power into the ignition switch. I am more in favor of making the ignition switch just trip relays for the loads as a couple of 50amp relays and an 30amp relay are much less expensive than replacing the ignition switch.
I would add a starter relay in the spare tire well and supply it off of the main lug of the starter with an inline fuse and switch the relay using the existing red wire that goes to the starter solenoid today. I would also add two 50 or 75 amp relays to take the loads off the ignition switch with your new supply wire going to a pair of fuses and then to supply the new relays. The existing wires the ignition switch switches today would then move over to the relays and smaller gauge wires would go from the ignition switch to switch the relays.
If you add inline fuses to power the relays for the headlights, there is much less need to run a second supply wire to the ignition switch. Personally I am not a fan of putting more power into the ignition switch. I am more in favor of making the ignition switch just trip relays for the loads as a couple of 50amp relays and an 30amp relay are much less expensive than replacing the ignition switch.
I would add a starter relay in the spare tire well and supply it off of the main lug of the starter with an inline fuse and switch the relay using the existing red wire that goes to the starter solenoid today. I would also add two 50 or 75 amp relays to take the loads off the ignition switch with your new supply wire going to a pair of fuses and then to supply the new relays. The existing wires the ignition switch switches today would then move over to the relays and smaller gauge wires would go from the ignition switch to switch the relays.
kmead
Old enough to know better
Yes, a common approach is to change the connectors to a ring connector and put a bolt through with a nut to clamp them and then add heat shrink over it to insulate.
Moving the headlights off the ignition and light switch loads helps the rest of the system greatly and you may not have a problem ever.
Steve Thomas
True Classic
and here is a pic of the 4 pin connector on the back of the ignition switch on a stock standard 1980. You can easily look at yours, drop the column covers and pull the plug...
Thanks mate
I had a quick look the other day but it's above the column thats when I noticed the master cylinder but ive got to drop it to do the brakes so ill check it then
Steve Thomas
True Classic
Like I said "easily" LOL