Lancia Scorpion #1733 -- new owner, project start

Discussion in 'X1/20 Forum' started by RJ80, Aug 11, 2017.

  1. RJ80

    RJ80 True Classic

    Location:
    Kitsap, WA
    Today I visited the shop that's building my engine to check on progress. The bottom end is on a stand and slowly going back together and the head is back from machining, so assembly should be starting on that soon. I'm still stalled on the brakes for need of a new pedal, but should have that resolved in the next couple weeks if Dean's and my schedule ever align. Seems we both travel a bit!

    A couple engine photos below:
    IMG_1423.jpg IMG_1424.jpg
     
  2. RJ80

    RJ80 True Classic

    Location:
    Kitsap, WA
    Two or three weeks ago, I met up with Dean who kindly sold me a clutch pedal so I could get my pedal box put back together. After a little procrastination, I finally did just that today. Getting the clutch spring back on took a little thinking. In the end, I ended up using a seal pulling tool hooked into the spring's loop end and pried against the back of the clutch pedal to leverage it on -- worked pretty well, I must say.

    One other little thing, I noticed the nipples that came with my new brake master cylinder from Midwest-Bayless were a larger size than were on my existing cylinder, so I cleaned and reused the old ones which were in fine condition. I'm debating on replacing the hoses from the reservoir bottles... looks like a pain of a job so I may skip it.

    I also installed a set of bolt-on OMP pedal covers that were about as non-blingy as I could find. I've always hated the way the small pedals in my old X1/9 and 124 felt against my foot, these are about 50% larger and should give more contact area. Now to finagle the whole thing back into the car! What fun that should be.
    IMG_1993.JPG IMG_1994.JPG IMG_1996.JPG
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2019
    motoTrooper likes this.
  3. Dean Scharer

    Dean Scharer Daily Driver

    Congratulations on the progress. I forgot to tell you... another way to do the spring is to get a roll of quarters and slip them in each section one at a time. Eventually it will be expanded enough to slide into place. Then simply collect your change.
     
  4. RJ80

    RJ80 True Classic

    Location:
    Kitsap, WA
    Thanks Dean, that's the direction I was going to go after after searching for solutions here after my failed screwdriver attempts. Somehow a seal puller caught my eye on my workbench and I decided to try it. A minute later, job done.

    I do have one question for anyone who can answer. I'm hearing a lot about "bench bleeding" the cylinders... if I fill them with fluid, I feel like most will just spill out while I'm wrangling the assembly back into place. What are people doing there?

    Also, why is there what looks to be an electronic switch under the clutch pedal? Obviously, the one under the brake is the brake light switch, but what function does my (broken) clutch pedal switch serve?
     
  5. RJ80

    RJ80 True Classic

    Location:
    Kitsap, WA
    Got back to the brake system last weekend and got the pedal box back in the car. Huzzah! That's not a job I'd like to do again soon, but it wasn't quite as bad as I'd believed. I left the steering column out of the car until after the brakes were bled, in the event I had a leak or some other problem and had to pull everything out again.

    Since I had to bleed the entire system from nearly dry (I opted not to pre-fill the MC with fluid expecting that to make a mess on reinstall), I decided to buy a Motive pressure bleeder with the European cap. Turns out, the European cap is too large to get a good seal on the Scorpion brake fluid reservoirs, so after cleaning up the mess I made I reverted to the old-fashioned pedal pumping game, enlisting my wife to help. It had been some time since I last bled brakes, but it all came back to me fairly quickly after reading a few tips here on the forum. After pumping quite a bit of air, I got fluid at each rear caliper within the first 5 minutes. Moved to the fronts, same deal. Went back and bled the car again until I had clear fluid with no air bubbles running out of my clear plastic tubing, but by the end of it, the pedal was still pretty soft.

    Then I noticed a small puddle of brake fluid (maybe two or three ounces) on the floor under the engine bay. Crawled underneath and it looks like a six-inch run of hard line that was maybe used to bypass the deleted booster was leaking. Tightening didn't help and it seems to be dribbling not from the threads, but down the hard line out the middle of the fitting -- improper seal, I'm guessing. It only seems to leak under brake pedal pressure, not when the system isn't in use. I'm guessing that's why I can't get a firm pedal.

    One thing, I didn't keep the end of my clear tubing submerged in fluid inside the "catch jar" when I was bleeding. Was that a mistake? I figured that as long as I was seeing fluid moving out of the tubing, there was no way air could get back in the system. When I finished bleeding at each corner, the tubing was full of clean, clear, bubble-free fluid.

    Photos below of the rebuilt pedal box back in place and the leaky fitting. The leak comes from the lower line on the lower of the two brass fittings. Wonder if there's a copper conical washer sold in the proper size to seal it?

    IMG_2011.jpg IMG_2013.jpg
     
  6. RJ80

    RJ80 True Classic

    Location:
    Kitsap, WA
    After getting a better understanding of the Scorpion's brake system by studying a diagram I found, I learned that the U-shaped connection that is leaking is definitely a booster bypass line. There are better pictures of this below that I took under the car. Basically, the booster was bypassed way back in the engine bay, rather than up front in the "frunk," so I've got a whole run of hard line going up and down the middle of the car that I don't need.

    My solution is to replace it with the Monte Hospital bypass line that re-routes in the frunk and remove the extra line that will be bypassed. Unfortunately, that also means that I'll have to bleed the whole system again, but them's the "breaks," as it's said (pun intended). I also added a set of brass speed bleeders to my order since they were only incrementally more than standard brass bleeder screws as well as a Monte Hospital double-bubble roof panel. That means my Grantham-design roof panel just may be available if anyone wants a more "permanent" hardtop for their Scorpion.

    Any tips on getting the old run of hardline to the booster out of the center of the car? Mine will be a double chore in that it's already full of fluid.
    IMG_2011.JPG IMG_2018.JPG
     
  7. lanciahf

    lanciahf True Classic

    Location:
    New Jersey
    Sorry but the carpet and center console have to come out. The hard line runs along the center console on the passenger side.

    BTW What does the top look like?
     
  8. RJ80

    RJ80 True Classic

    Location:
    Kitsap, WA
    Bummer! Eventually I'll take the carpet out to redye it, but it's not a priority right now. I guess I'll do that job down the road.

    Photos of the top can be seen in post #55 of this thread.
     

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