Melted Piston.

Internet pix, digital cameras and computer monitors are all a little different.....that said, they look too white in the pix.

How about experimenting with a colder plug, might help the knock and the plug color at the same time.
 
Also Hussein, we now have a loaner shim tool to...

send out with the Mirafiori Shim exchange.

In your case though... you would just need to know what size shim you NOW have and ask for one that is a .001 thicker and send in your old one.

Alvon Elrod <ventura_ace*juno.com>

Best to send the few bucks to cover shipping up front as well... as this in a NOT FOR PROFIT friendly service.

Tell'um I sent ya and give him my regards...
 
Dan Sarandrea (Phila) said:
Internet pix, digital cameras and computer monitors are all a little different.....that said, they look too white in the pix.

How about experimenting with a colder plug, might help the knock and the plug color at the same time.
Click to expand...

Not a bad idea - I'd rather run a little more timing at idle - I can try WR6DC's instead of the 7's.

I ordered a billet 3.25" OD pulley to modify for the water pump. That is 1" smaller than the one I have now I want higher flow at idle regardless of timing - my idle rpms are lower than previously.
 
Installed the WR6DC's today - gapped at .028"

The other plugs really don't look white - have the normal sooting around the base & slight browning on the electrode. Only 300 miles on these

B4C5F946-0E1E-42AD-B320-5B3732219F04_zpsgjhztvc9.jpg


I don't hear any knock with these and the base timing close to zero. I only have about 20º total advance - I made markers at 15º & 30º.

I need to reset the cam timing to neutral. Then I'll try advancing the timing a touch.

I have the 3.25" pulley, so I'll get that machined to fit the water pump. That will give me greater coolant flow at idle to compensate for the higher cylinder temps caused by reduced timing at idle.
 
With the cam timing back at zero, I advanced the ignition timing a few degrees - about 4ºBTDC now. No audible knock & car pulls nicely.

I had a weird surge/lean condition at idle once the engine was hot, since converting to EZK. Finally determined it was the power stage acting up, with a replacement in place, all is good.

EDIT - was actually power supply voltage drop to coil.

Moved the power stage into the side well where the ign. ECU used to reside, to get it further from the bay heat.

X19_0383.jpg
 
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I thought you were running Allison's distributorless ignition? I see the distributor in the photos so what made you change your mind?
 
petex19 said:
I thought you were running Allison's distributorless ignition? I see the distributor in the photos so what made you change your mind?
Click to expand...

I replaced the Allison's system with a Volvo EZK117 - it has knock control and varies timing based on engine load, integrated with the Volvo LH2.2 fuel system. With this setup, I can modify the timing maps using TunerPro, once I modify an ECU for a removable chip :)

I'll be selling the Allison's setup.

I advanced the timing another couple degrees, still no knock - so the cam timing was the main issue. Advancing the timing again has lowered my idle coolant temps another notch. EDIT: 10/02 - moved the timing back, this adjustment in fact brought back light knock.
 
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Got the time to install the small pulley today

size comparison

X19_0340a.jpg


X19_0340.jpg


Dropped coolant temp at idle. Made a heat shield for the header from some Volvo firewall shielding - should help keep the alternator from getting so toasty.
 
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Still have an idle fluctuation that I cannot entirely clear up. The only thing left is the shaft/bore wear for the butterfly in the plenum.

Edit: voltage to coil was issue

I'm going to cut off the plenum intake section & replace it with a Volvo throttle body, 3" butterfly.

X19_0385.jpg


Have the 1/2" flange bored (drilled out with a hole saw), drilled & tapped for install. Just have to cut down the excess. Bore is tapered from 3" down to 2.25" for the inlet ID

X19_0357a.jpg


Have to make an adaptor plate for the early style throttle switch - it will be using a Volvo version (325) instead of the Fiat/Saab (300) version, since the shaft rotation is reversed. The stock linkage will be replaced with the adjustable rod shown in the first pic.
 
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rjplenter said:
I'm always aghast at your level of commitment to modify any part for any task. Keep up the great work!
Cheers, Rob
Click to expand...

Thanks, Rob.

Chopped off the inlet & made a new inlet section (2.75" ID) to match the larger TB

X19_0365a.jpg


X19_0357a.jpg


Just need to weld the flange, then weld the inlet to the plenum.

Then, I have to fabricate new linkage parts & base plate for the microswitch revised orientation.
 
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I recently saw a pic on one of the Euro FIAT forums where someone grafted a more modern MAF throttle body onto a FIAT L-Jet plenum as used on FI X1/9s and Uno Turbos by cutting off the end of the plenum tube (the end with the Cold Start Injector) like a slice of baloney, making a flange for the MAF throttle body, and welding that flange onto the end of the plenum tube.

The end result looked a lot like one half of an L98 or LS1 tuned port injection setup.
 
Dan - I had considered making that sort of a change - the problem I see is that the plenum is designed for a central inlet and moving to the end can create air distribution issues - the closest cylinders to the inlet can run lean if the correct orientation of the TB is not carefully considered. I wonder how they made out down the road.
 
Plenum is welded & everything except link rod is in place

X19_0365c.jpg


Didn't have a black 3" - 2.75" coupler, so I need to locate one

X19_0373.jpg


Throttle switch is a Volvo version 0 280 120 325 (3517068 - LH2.2/4 240/740 85-93) instead of the Fiat/Saab 0 280 120 300
 
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Finished up the linkage

Volvo parts...

X19_0364.jpg


Only had to cut the stop off of the standard V70 throttle lever (stamped 395 top right, next to Fiat lever) & it sat in the perfect position on the cam cover linkage to provide a nice clean sweep. Stock V70 link rod fit as is.

X19_0388.jpg



Played around with MAF voltage & regulated FP settings - definitely runs best with base regulated pressure of about 52psi (about 46psi under idle vac), and a MAF voltage setting of 1.5v. O2 sweeps nicely .1-.8v with these settings. Lower FP results in O2 voltage stuck on the low end.
 
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Put about a thousand miles on it since the rebuild. Runs really nicely - so much more power on tap when cruising. Around 3500 in 5th, I just have to ease on the gas & it takes off like a rocket :) I believe the speedo is very optimistic, though. I really would like a 6 speed trans now, to drop the revs when cruising.

The 2.75" butterfly has made a significant difference to the responsiveness, it must have been choking with the 2.25" bore I had previously made. Can't imagine how bad it would be with the restriction of stock FI butterfly/intake bore.


EDIT: surging was all due to voltage drop to LH2.2 ignition coil

The idle surging issue I had after installing the EZK117 ignition, seems to have been caused by my neglecting to connect the TPS WOT ground wire to the EZK ECU (LH pin 12 to EZK pin 15). Both idle & WOT connections also go to the LH2.2 ECU, so I can only presume there is trace voltage present that tells the EZK to maintain a steady advance at idle, even though the idle side is grounded through the LH ECU. The design & function manuals don't go into that level of detail. I found a Saab pinout that describes a 5v signal being present on the WOT side of the TPS/ECU circuit, so that would have been absent as I had it wired.

I haven't been able to refine/alter the timing maps as I need an older (v5) Willem Programmer AND an PC desktop with a serial printer port in order to program the old chips used. Not sure it's worth the additional expense. The main problem is that the Volvo system cuts fuel/ign around 6300rpm, which is annoying if I'm winding it out in 1st/2nd, otherwise there's not really a need to rev that high in street use. I would like to alter the curve to compensate for the current need to run under 10º at idle (to limit total advance), that is negatively effecting my idling coolant temps.

Now that I have an oil temp gauge (autometer), I can see that my oil temps rarely exceed 180-200ºF - which means the oil cooler isn't doing much - the built in t/stat begins to open * 203ºF / fully open * 230ºF. Although I haven't driven it hard continuously/extended periods, so it may still be good insurance.
 
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You must be close to getting it onto a rolling road dyno and seeing what sort of HP/torque numbers you've ended up with after all your effort...

Nice work as always.

SteveC
 
Couple of ???

First, continued kudos for your ongoing development reports!

Chances are these questions have been answered previously but Hey there are a million posts in this thread:):whistle:

1. The original LJet EFI used on our Xs fired all injectors at the same time. Does your current set up do that too, or have you improved to a sequential setup? If your setup has a crank position sensor I would assume that it does fire sequentially now.

2. The original LJet EFI injectors sprayed in what is called a pencil or firehose pattern. Do your current injectors spray in a single wider, more aerosol-like pattern, or in multiple narrow patterns?
 
All I can say Hussein is...

1. WOW

2. There goes your mileage!

3. WOWOWOWOW!

4. Really great work and you just gotta be the most dedicated Volvo enthusiast on the planet... outside of that guy who has a 1/2 million miles on his!
 
Hi Dan

Lh2.2 is similar to earlier L-Jet in that the injectors are also batch fired.

The injectors have a four hole fine spray pattern. Used on NA 850 / 960 series Volvo's. With revised runners and fuel rail, one could take advantage of newer design injectors on L-Jet also.
 
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