You can buy the outlets and add them during the machining of the block. When you get to doing this as a full on build it would be an important step.Could you further explain how you would plan on adding additional oil squitors? That may be something I'm interested in.
Also, on a side note. What are your plans for head gasket?
Regarding the intercooler I promise to update soon. My wife and I are currently away celebrating our 1yr anniversary
Quick question - where did you get this expansion tank? It's a nice size for turbo installs!
Also - I would recommend a water to air intercooler if you haven't already.
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This is the best pic I can get; the charge cooler is blocking me from having a full profile pic. The fuel rail is about 10mm above the tube.This was an great example I was trying to remember, but couldn't recall who it was. As Karl said he moved the "rod" portion of the dogbone down by off-setting it. That allowed it to clear under the fuel rail. That pic is a little deceiving due to the angle. Maybe Bjorn has a pic more from the side to show the profile?
At the moment I don't plan to add any oil squirters. More on that later. But I understand it isn't too difficult to do so. There are some small "nozzles" used on other engines (e.g. Dodge Cummins diesels) that are very similar to the ones used on the later Fiat engines. They look like this (yellow tubes) - ignore the crowbar in the pic:Could you further explain how you would plan on adding additional oil squitors? That may be something I'm interested in.
Also, on a side note. What are your plans for head gasket?
Regarding the intercooler I promise to update soon. My wife and I are currently away celebrating our 1yr anniversary
Regarding the headgasket (HG). I'm sure I'll get some slack for saying this, but it seems to me the stock ones (including most of the aftermarket ones) have a MUCH higher failure rate than I'd consider normal. Just based on the number of HG failures that get reported on this forum, even after careful proper preparation, makes me think they must be a weak design.Could you further explain how you would plan on adding additional oil squitors? That may be something I'm interested in.
Also, on a side note. What are your plans for head gasket?
Regarding the intercooler I promise to update soon. My wife and I are currently away celebrating our 1yr anniversary
I didn't know that also the X1/9 engine has oil squirters. If this is true it should be ok to lower compression and put boost on it. -A lot of boost, as this engine is probably not weaker than the UT engine.I saw a good pic of a X1/9 connecting rod that helps illustrate the stock oil squirters.
The green line is to show how the hole is angled to aim the spray toward the piston. The blue arrow is the inlet hole for the squirter on the other side of the rod. They are oriented in opposite directions to offer more coverage of the piston.
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Piston underside squirters are only part of the story of the cooling differences between an X19 1500 and an Uno Turbo engine.I didn't know that also the X1/9 engine has oil squirters. If this is true it should be ok to lower compression and put boost on it. -A lot of boost, as this engine is probably not weaker than the UT engine.
This is the UT engine. I haven't seen an equivalent picture for the X 1.5l so if someone has it please post it.
It's a tiny fractional difference in size that is the difference.... so you may find that regular 1500 bearings will give the oil clearance you require, just depends how worn your standard crank is.I have a question on bearings (main and connecting rod) for the Mk1 UT engine - the 1.3L Mk1 UT bearings are not the same part number as the 1500cc engine, but they do fit - I'm going to need a set real soon for my Mk1 - is there a good source for the proper bearings? I haven't found any reliable source to buy them (prefer not to buy from Ebay, and I certainly want high quality bearings in standard size).
Thanks! (slightly off topic, but I see lots of convo around connecting rods so I thought I'd chime in!)
Thank you - interestingly though, they have a different amount of holes on either the crank or connecting rods - I just can't recall which one is which.It's a tiny fractional difference in size that is the difference.
no the uno T mk 1 conrod and the X19 1500 conrod are the same thing, it's the same rod.. no difference in oil spayer holes... it's the journal size of the crank that is fractions of a thou difference in size.Thank you - interestingly though, they have a different amount of holes on either the crank or connecting rods - I just can't recall which one is which.
Eventually the engine will go off to the rebuilder - they can measure the crank, issue is that the UnoT was never sold here and finding bearings always means ordering them from overseas. So I figured I'd have a set of fresh standard ones on hand
With the UT oil squirters mounted in the block, they have a fixed position with a fixed oil spray. Therefore the piston will be at different positions relative to the actual spray of oil as the piston continually moves up and down through the stroke. So the spray will hit the piston for a portion of its travel as the crank rotates, but not during the rest of the crank rotation when the piston is in a different location in the cylinder. The spray hits the cylinders when the piston is not in direct alignment with the spray.Whereas the supplementary oilers off the main bearing journals as used by the Uno turbo engine definitely spray right up at the piston crown underside.
We talked about all this before in another thread, and I mentioned the multiplication factor and use of the standard production block being reasons the engine is configured like this...Interesting thread, drifting as usual .
I didn't think about the non siamesed cylinders on the UT which makes room for more water cooling and there is probably other differences as well.
My absolute favorite driver/car/build is Johannes Graversen from Denmark. I wonder what kind of block he used on his 370hp/340Nm@1.5 bar build:
-1425 cc
-Bore 86.4 mm
-Stroke 61 mm
-CR 6.5:1
As Steve S says, the cylinder walls would be very thin if reboring an UT to 86.4 mm so how did he manage?
The stroke is rather short. -A way to lower compression and making it rev to10k rpm?
It seems like Graversen used a 1500 block of some sort with shorter con rods.
Actually the crank web mounted sprayers are aimed roughly at the centre of the bore, they don't have the conrod in the way, so the relative position of the piston up or down the bore wont make an appreciable difference over the engines 63.9mm stroke to where the spray will point, it will still be roughly the middle of the piston, certainly on the piston crown underside where it's going to have the most benefit.With the UT oil squirters mounted in the block, they have a fixed position with a fixed oil spray. Therefore the piston will be at different positions relative to the actual spray of oil as the piston continually moves up and down through the stroke. So the spray will hit the piston for a portion of its travel as the crank rotates, but not during the rest of the crank rotation when the piston is in a different location in the cylinder. The spray hits the cylinders when the piston is not in direct alignment with the spray.
When turbo engine builders are converting a non-turbo engine for use with boost they often redirect the angle of the oil squirter to aim it at the piston crown. If desired this could be done on the X by angling the little holes in the rods slightly differently. Between doing that and adding additional oil squirters to the block (ala UT style), it might be a question of what is easier to do, which has a greater effect on the piston's life, and how much is actually needed for a specific spec of build. I imagine for the X engine with a low boost turbo there really isn't any need to add more squirters or modify the existing ones.