Midwest front anti sway bar

That is one issue with sway bars on the X, reducing ground clearance....which is already at a minimum.
 
Someday, there may be a better choice available. I had posted a hint about it a while ago. https://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/fender-rolling-the-x.39352/
I liked the fender rolling information in this thread. When I did mine in 74, I mostly used my fingers and sometimes a block of wood. I was pretty surprised how soft the metal was. No issues with paint flaking off. I only needed to roll the inner lip up and out of the way - no radius change or flaring.
 
That is one issue with sway bars on the X, reducing ground clearance....which is already at a minimum.
The beauty of Doug’s bar choice and mounting design is that the lowest point of the bar is actually slightly higher than the tunnel and the floor pans.
E0F69BFD-DA35-4985-A9A5-0FAED7E3C116.jpeg
 
I think it also comes down to the application. For a street car, I see no issue with a roll bar. However, on my all out autocross car (not street legal) I did not run one, instead, I used the coil overs (500lb rear and something higher on the front, I forget now) and that was a great ticket.

Of course, running that high of a spring rate on the road will instantly kill your kidneys!

The roll bar gives the extra resistance when needed but still allows for a more comfortable ride.

Now, on my Race 128, I ran a 1 1/4" (31mm) rear roll bar (I called it my tree trunk) That was fun! At some point I joked about hard mounting the rear suspension to get the best front end grip! hahaha.
 
Of course, running that high of a spring rate on the road will instantly kill your kidneys!
If you don't care much about your kidneys, how does the car behave on high-speed tracks? I can't decide if going for stiffer springs at the front coils or an anti-roll bar? I am mostly into high-speed track racing, not much auto crossing/slalom.
 
That is a cool sway bar, nice and clean underside, looks like you have a home 4 post lift as well
Yes, I do. I bought the lift about three years ago when I moved to my current home. I love it and wished I had bought one years ago. It was a godsend when I was working out the suspension and alignment settings for my K20.
 
I liked the fender rolling information in this thread. When I did mine in 74, I mostly used my fingers and sometimes a block of wood. I was pretty surprised how soft the metal was. No issues with paint flaking off. I only needed to roll the inner lip up and out of the way - no radius change or flaring.
Wow... That was not my experience on the 128 fender rolling struggle! They must be wildly different sheet metal specs between X19 and 128.... I started off with a small bat to roll the rear fender lips, all that did was destroy the bat! The sheet metal did not move a millimeter... I eventually had to go to a plastic mallet which I applied gradually, I got pretty far without damaging the paint but after I passed 45° it started to flake off. I had to feather it out and repaint the lip. It looks decent from 5 feet away🙄
 
Wow... That was not my experience on the 128 fender rolling struggle! They must be wildly different sheet metal specs between X19 and 128.... I started off with a small bat to roll the rear fender lips, all that did was destroy the bat! The sheet metal did not move a millimeter... I eventually had to go to a plastic mallet which I applied gradually, I got pretty far without damaging the paint but after I passed 45° it started to flake off. I had to feather it out and repaint the lip. It looks decent from 5 feet away🙄
The X's front fenders aren't too bad. But the rears are a totally different story; they are double layered and given their contour they are quite robust.
 
Yes, there is a 6’x3’ x 3” high mounting plait. It does require 220v power to run. And is rated for 4500 pound. None of my car weigh over 3700.
 
Back
Top