My Car So Far...

Great that you are getting the wiring sorted out Ben. I can imagine how good that must feel to be making it up that mountain. My wipers were not working 4 months ago so as I started down that path I somehow got convinced to rework the entire dash!!! Be careful in there ... it's not too much of a stretch for us do-ers to bite off a big chunk. (I'm really speaking to myself right now and trying to remember that I bought this car to actually drive it) :)
 
If you could lift them by hand, it's mean they are mechanically disconnected. Otherwise you would have to turn the headlamp motor to knob to raise or lower them. Good chance also the PO remove the linkage because the motor diodes were no longer working. So first, you will have to look if there is some linkages left.
 
Ben, nice work. My '79 was similar; a good body shell but lots of other issues that kept it from driving. Mine seems to be more hydraulic systems problems, but plenty of wiring issues as well. I found a lot of places where the insulation had become hard and broken off, leaving exposed wires. So I can relate to any frustration you must have experienced, but also the feeling of finally getting things to work.

Regarding the headlights not coming up. One possibility is the two diodes that are connected to the motor on each light. It is very common for these to fail. Though it's a bit odd that all of would them fail preventing all function of the motors; usually one light will go up but not down, or both will do opposite functions, or other odd behavior. So if yours are not responding at all then it might not be the diodes. But keep this in mind, who knows. Sometimes after one fails another is overloaded and also fails, etc. I'll include a link about it below. Also check the wires around the motors. They are subjected to movement every time the lights go up or down, plus exposed to the elements, road grim, etc. I had a couple wires there that were either broken completely, the insulation had come off allowing the wire to contact a ground, the connection was displaced, etc. And like all wiring issues, check the grounds and connections.

I think it was wise to retain the unused wire harnesses for the AC and heat. The systems are complex and cutting things out may have lead to further problems. Plus like you said, who knows if you might need to reinstall something later.

Diodes:
http://www.visualimpressions.ca/fiat/diodes.htm
 
@ Daniel
Sorry I meant lifted the with the knob. But still the linkage might be suspect
@DrJeff
Yes it feels great! Im much more comfortable with mechanical things though Ive been learning a lot about electrical lately. Thanks for the link!

Ive had the dash off 2-3 times for other things and it was bad. Everytime I had to button it up again leaving it like that I cringed. And I was never fully sure if my car would suddenly burn to the ground. Last nite I left the cars lights on turnings things off and on repeatedly till the battery started to drop voltage, about 45 min with no problems. And overnite I was confident so I left the battery connected. I still have a car so looks like all is good. Soon I will take a closer look at the headlights just ran out of time.
 
Some more shots of heater parts

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Things are dirty but generally in great condition
 
@Clark
Wait you can drive these things?
Jk I know exactly what u mean. Things snowball fast

Real quick any thoughts on the Achilles 185/60 tire?
 
I've tried using the 'print screen' key before but could not get it to work. However your explanation includes a couple things (additional keys/steps) that I did not know to do. So I'll try it again your way. Thanks.

Personally I prefer full sizes pics....less steps to view them.
I use "Gadwin PrintScreen" very useful .. I can draw Box, add text, etc...
https://www.gadwin.com/printscreen/
 
Finished the fuel system refurb. All mounted with new filter and fuel hose plus cleaned up and tested fuel pump. Then buttoned up the rest of AFM, air filter, snorkel etc. Also drained the tank and caught a few particles (prob not all)

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A good analog for where Ive been and where Ive not on this car is where the bottom of Afm bracket mounts. Clean on the left grime on the right.
 
Heres the big one

Finally hard mounted the copper plumbing.

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Using a map torch for long enough to heat the joints this close to the gas tank will really test your nerve. Clearance in the back is really tight I recomend doing the back first so if you need to you can slightly rotate the pipe to get solder throughout. Aluminum foil will burn with Map but is adequate enough with several layers. Likely your undercoating will still burn a little

Have these on hand!!!
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One thing to note:
The threads in the head are closest to 3/8 NPT however a regular 3/8 plug is .05” too big. Its not much but I guarantee you it will not fit. It took me a few trips to Ace until finally a plumber standing in the isle watching me fret gave me a crucial tip, 3/8 flared plugs are slightly smaller for some reason and fit perfect. Use liquid sealant and you’ll be golden. Also a copper washer would be good under the hex in hindsight.

Made sure everything was secure and tight I filled her up and waited. After 48 hrs there wasnt so much as a weep!!! (Well coolant anyways) Hooray!

While I had the console still apart I also cleaned up the shifter, regreased, and installed
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I finished buttoning up the wiring and dash as well. Everything all secure I warmed the car up to 180 heard the fans go, then blasted around the neighborhood for 10-15 min. No leaks. Then today I took a longer 20-30min drive up the cannyon and no leaks. Thanks to my Vapor I had a good temp and rpm reading. Temp went between 175-195 iddling, cruising, and at hard revs as I approached the last couple miles to my house. Still not a weep. Result!

Also I find these dash patterned spacers that shim the dash hilarious
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Looking good, making a lot of progress, nice work. Your "sweat" (solder) joints are clean, unlike the ones I've done...never been my thing.

Was it any problem removing the fitting for the heater hose here...
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Mine is frozen into the head.

It is best for fuel injection hoses to use the high-pressure type clamps instead of the standard worm style, especially everywhere past the fuel pump (where the pressures are high). You can get them at your local big-box parts stores...
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Have these on hand!!!
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Yes, having a motorcycle close by allows for a quick escape when things catch fire. :)
 
Lol I suppose if my car caught fire past the point of no return I could just start the single turn the bike around and use the exhaust pulse to fan the flames, quickening its demise. It would be the humane thing to do.

Yes the outlet at the head was a real b****
I soaked with penetrant heated it up and still had to put so much torque to it I cracked the retaining nut. Also access is horrendous
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My parts store was out of stock so ordered clamps online should be here soon. I was eager to get the car going
 
Nice work on the coolant pipes - I was wondering what the aluminum foil was for when I glanced at the first pic :D

Pretty certain that fitting is just a straight metric thread. Mine came with a crush washer under the locking nut. I cut the elbow off & used an AN elbow fitting, so the section in the head never needs touching. Even the pipe thread sections in the t/stat housing are metric - No reason Fiat would ever use UNC or F hardware.
 
@lookforjoe
I agree it would be illogical for Fiat to use NPT and it probably is metric. I tried the threads of the elbow in all metric and pipe thread NPT-F blanks to try and find the right pitch threads and diameter and even 1.5 metric thread was way too fine. Lining the elbow threads up with 3/8 NPT was a near exact match to whatever fiat used. I wish I took a pic its spot on. The only difference is that the thread profile (shape/thickness) is a bit different because NPT threads are designed to be used with sealant. So to clarify 3/8 FLARED bungs should work without issues. I was able to hand thread about 1/2 way and with sealant there was almost no drag and no self cutting of new threads while still getting good engagement. Im glad you bring it up though maybe someone out there knows the exact
M?x1.something sizing.

Having said all that well see if it holds up
 
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@Dr.Jeff
Yes it was small torture going 1/16 of a turn at a time praying like hell nothing snapped. Plus everytime I wrenched it went eeeeeee eeeeee eeeeee but in the end nothing was damaged. Better out than in they say

Plus I knew that if I didnt destroy the threads toooo bad I could probably drill them out and cut new ones. Ive already helicoiled or cut about half to a dozen threads on the car already. I actually had an exhast stud break and then pull out while I was using a stud extractor on it o_O

Part of the beauty in resurecting a basketcase is that its hard to make it worse
 
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