Preparing For Dallara Body Kit

Discussion in 'Workshop Forum' started by lookforjoe, Mar 7, 2015.

  1. lookforjoe

    lookforjoe True Classic

    That's bigger than my house :D Thanks for the offer, though

    The paintless guys I've dealt with can't do much if they can't get behind it. I'll live with it for now.
  2. TonyK

    TonyK True Classic

    Grimsby Ont Canada
    Drill a few holes in the rib and you can put a rod into the space and flex it back.


    Grimsby Ontario Canada.
    Mike Schofield likes this.
  3. lookforjoe

    lookforjoe True Classic

    Thanks Tony - I'll have to look into that option.
  4. Black-Tooth

    Black-Tooth Tony Natoli

    Yeah... its bigger than my last house too!

    As Tony K said, that was what I was alluding to as well. BUTTTT... the paintless guys have a myriad of other tricks as well. Before you start messing with it, it might behoove you to ask for a few other opinions.

    BTW, I have no horse in this race... just trying to make life a little easier on you.

    Best regards....
  5. Michael Albers

    Michael Albers Daily Driver

    Barboursville WV
    Paint less dent co. will drill a small access hole and massage the dent out from underneath, then plug the hole with a small rubber plug.
    You would be amazed how completely they can repair a dent like that, and probably in an hour or so start to finish
    A buddy of mine has a car lot and they use these guys all the time. It is amazing to watch them work.
  6. rx1900

    rx1900 1981 X1/9

    Hey Hussein. I totally agree with Tony and Michael. Talk to a REALLY GOOD dent removal guy. They have their ways for most any situation. A good friend of mine is one. My granddaughter got a decent sized dent in her trunk lid where there was no access from behind and we thought there was no hope. He was unfazed. We watched - in horror at first - him glue a stud-like thing to the dent and attach a device that looked like a slide hammer. Couple of yanks and the dent was gone. Then some chemical to release the glue. The result was perfect.

    He made it look easy - but I know it was not....Like watching an artist at work.

    The trick is to find a really good one. I've used a few. Some are much better than others. Ask around at the better car dealerships who they use. Surely you must know the local Volvo dealership well...ask them.

    Good luck. Doug
    aarpcard likes this.
  7. lookforjoe

    lookforjoe True Classic

    Forgot to add this revision - switched to stiffer springs at the same time. Posted here originally

    Ordered a pair of the Ford mounts (KYB SM5607). I forgot the rear perch has the cone integrated. Fortunately, I had the parts I put together as an alternate top perch when I was making the coil overs, so these work just fine with my coilovers. I don't have a standard rear perch anymore to compare how these could work with stock suspension.





    Put in the 175/350 springs (for the K24) while I was at it.


    Drilled 3/8" holes (tried 5/16" first, but that didn't allow enough deflection for when the mount conforms to the arc of the tower cap, I used the inner hole as the guide, then drilled the outer (fore/aft) two, using a cardboard template made from the focus mount. Bolted the doubler plate in place for drilling. Stud spacing is approx 83mm



    dllubin likes this.
  8. kmead

    kmead Old enough to know better

    How happy are you with the end result?
  9. lookforjoe

    lookforjoe True Classic

    With the rear strut mounts? Yes. The stock ones (even with strut plate doublers) are just too weak for the heavier springs and coilovers. With the K24, I would imagine the stock ones would fail in less than the few years I got out of them. I would prefer lighter (then the current 175/350) rear coils, these are too stiff for my taste, but required for the K24 torque.
    kmead likes this.
  10. lookforjoe

    lookforjoe True Classic

    Worked in the trunk & quarters. Finally got to dynamat the inner wheel arches & added some of the left over trunk carpet from my targa mod. Added a layer of batting to the backside of my deteriorating access cover panel. Grey carpet will be swapped out for black when that arrives. Looks better even with the mismatched colors :)


    kmead and aarpcard like this.
  11. Black-Tooth

    Black-Tooth Tony Natoli

    Hey Hussein...

    You have a lot of stuff going on back there... The pockets and rope tie-downs... what do you use them for?

    The wiring and pin on the left? And lastly the "stepped" access cover? (DON'T you dare tell me these are Volvo items!)

    Have you left "no stone unturned"?


    Did ya ever get in touch with a paintless dent removal guy?
  12. lookforjoe

    lookforjoe True Classic

    Hey Tony
    The pockets are Volvo tool bags, contain Volvo lug wrench and Spanners. Stuff on left is factory wiring + Volvo vacuum lines (purple) that go to the Volvo vacuum holding tank (white plastic "balls") tucked up in there. The tank is for the (vacuum controlled) Volvo heater control valve. The stepped cover is stock, it covers the step in the access plate that is the air duct for the (removed) inj. fan

    Did I mention Volvo enough :D ?

    I'd have to go to a body shop to make an appointment for a PDR guy, they don't do house calls. I'll get around to it.
  13. Black-Tooth

    Black-Tooth Tony Natoli

    I didn't happen to notice until you mentioned VOLVO...

    Good on you about the PDR... hopefully it works out and he's reasonable. Around here though, a phone call and they come to you. You might try a few more, especially if he's not supporting a brick and mortar building and staff!
  14. Daniel Forest

    Daniel Forest True Classic

    Next projet will probably be a merge of both of your projects: an AWD X19 with the C30/S40)V50 drivetrain.
    kmead likes this.
  15. lookforjoe

    lookforjoe True Classic

    Daniel - I seriously considered the Volvo drivetrain & EMS, since I’m comfortable with it, but the 5cyl is just too wide. Given the fabrication involved, the fact that Volvo parts typically cost way over that of Honda, and the time it would take to figure a custom subframe and axle solution, it’s a non-contender.

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice