Ty Chamberlain
Starting out
Since I haven't started it yet I will wait and start with a good flush. If I have a problem I will get it rodded and cleaned
I am new here so please forgive my ignorance. Does the original radiator not work? I realize that sometimes change is good but is this change needed. My newly purchased X has 36000 miles and I have not started it yet. I plan on removing the rad and having it cleaned, replacing the hoses and vacuum filling the system. I have no need to just spend money but I don't need to waste money either
I'm not sure where you are in Northern CA, but I got a new core installed by a place in Redwood City. They told me the cores come from a factory in Benicia, CA. Unlike the original core, the fins are also copper so it should cool a bit better and solve the intermetallics issue that the original core died of. The cost was maybe a little less than a good quality aluminum unit but some claim that there are potential electrolysis issues with aluminum radiators and iron blocks. Copper is also a better heat conductor.Since I haven't started it yet I will wait and start with a good flush. If I have a problem I will get it rodded and cleaned
Harbor Freight also sells these.The vacuum filler tool works like a charm. OEM tools part #24444 $69.00 on Amazon. It's Prime, so if you don't like it, it's returnable. It pulled about 22 inches of vacuum, all the hoses went flat. Then closed the valve and waited to see if it held, which it did. The other hose goes into a bucket of antifreeze and just sucked it in. Started it up and ran it a few times, haven't needed to top it up and have no air at the bleeder.used it on an Infinity, same thing, filled it right up. The big test will be my Ford Expedition with rear seat heat, lots of hoses and 2 heater cores.
Performance of the radiator, can't complain. Ran it at idle on a 95 degree day for 20 minutes and it won't break 190, fans haven't come on yet. I do have a leak at the fan switch, which I think is the sealing surface on the radiator, it didn't look perfectly flat, think it's designed for an O ring, but the switch doesn't have the proper recess to use one. The copper ring leaked, tried an aluminum ring with #2 permatex, that worked, passed 15psi pressure test, drove it about 20 miles, then started to leak a little. I'll try another ring and be sure it's flat.
The shop is called OK Radiator, and the guy to talk to is Stephen Dellinger, the owner. He is one of the few guys left around here that does this kind of work. I had used him once back in the 70s and was surprised to find he was still actually working (Still open as of 6/2019). He had it back to me in two days (including time to order and install core) looking brand new. Not exactly close to Reno, however.I will have mine done (if needed) in Reno. Do you have the business name in Redwood City
I would flush with old parts in place and avoid putting harsh chemicals in to your new parts ,once the chemical or rad flush does it,s job reflush with water once or twice to get everything out,This seems to be as good a spot as any to ask this. I have a replacement radiator and all new rubber hoses ready to go. I'm wondering if there's any benefit to flushing to system with all the old components still in place before taking on the repair to perhaps dislodge anything that might be present in the parts that are not being replaced? Curious to know your thoughts.
I completely get what you are thinking, I had similar ideas when I was replacing my rad. It's kind of a two sided issue. If the engine and pipes are much worse condition (contaminated) than the old rad then I'd flush with the old rad in place. However if the old rad is much worse condition than the engine and pipes then I'd flush with the new one in place. In other words you don't want to introduce more crud from the old rad into the rest of the system, assuming the old rad is full of crud. And vice versa. Also I agree with @tony x19 that some flush agents might be a little harsh on the new rad. But most flush products available today are so mild (and ineffective) that it probibly won't matter.This seems to be as good a spot as any to ask this. I have a replacement radiator and all new rubber hoses ready to go. I'm wondering if there's any benefit to flushing to system with all the old components still in place before taking on the repair to perhaps dislodge anything that might be present in the parts that are not being replaced? Curious to know your thoughts.
If you were planning to do a "cold" flush as in just rinsing it out, then you could do it at the point where the old components are gone but the new ones are not yet installed. For example, if all five major external cooling hoses are removed and you're doing this with a garden hose....This seems to be as good a spot as any to ask this. I have a replacement radiator and all new rubber hoses ready to go. I'm wondering if there's any benefit to flushing to system with all the old components still in place before taking on the repair to perhaps dislodge anything that might be present in the parts that are not being replaced? Curious to know your thoughts.