dragonsgate
True Classic
I hate when that happens.I have always left the inside of the piston as is.
Not very helpfull, but this is what extreme brake failure looks like.View attachment 36348
I hate when that happens.I have always left the inside of the piston as is.
Not very helpfull, but this is what extreme brake failure looks like.View attachment 36348
The "bowed" outer line is perfectly normal and has no effect on the operation of the cable inside.Continuing on, I found the post below from 2015 on another thread. I'll have to take the caliper back out and investigate. As mentioned in the post, it was hard to screw the piston back on.
Also, I noted when I put the ebrake cables back on they were partially "bowed" between the bracketing slots. I don't remember how they were when I took them off but I don't remember them as bowed, and perhaps this is indicative of the mechanism in the caliper not fully retracting. the ebrake lever in the cab is out of its holder so there's definitely no tension on the cable right now.
rear brake caliper problem
Hi, the brake caliper ceased on, that bad that smoke came off the wheel and the pads were toast. I tried to wind it back but it was stuck so I removed it from the car and replaced it with a spare which was winding back pretty good. I replaced the disk/rotar and pads but the brake is still...xwebforums.com
If you didn't mess with the pawl/lever mechanism on the back of the caliper and the lever is doing it's stuff now, and you can't screw the piston all the way in even when the cable is disconnected.... then that mechanism is not the problem. This is good news, becauseyou don't want to take that mechanism apart if you can help it - compressing the spring washers so that you can get the pawl back in is tricky.Thanks for the reply Tom, and I will definitely take you up on your kind offer. For the sake of the thread, I did not dismantle the caliber, only replaced the inner ring and dust boot and cleaned up the piston. The piston is definitely moving when i manually squeeze the brake mechanism.
Yea, I just did a rebuild with the standard kit. Cylinder ring and dust boot. It has definitely screwed in all it can and now just turns like it should without going in further. I'll follow your advice and give it a try.If you didn't mess with the pawl/lever mechanism on the back of the caliper and the lever is doing it's stuff now, and you can't screw the piston all the way in even when the cable is disconnected.... then that mechanism is not the problem. This is good news, becauseyou don't want to take that mechanism apart if you can help it - compressing the spring washers so that you can get the pawl back in is tricky.
You are pushing the piston in as you turn it, I presume? Silly question, I know.
By "inner ring" you mean the seal inside the cylinder of the caliper? At this point, I'd be inclined to unscrew the piston again, check the guts of the adjuster mechanism inside the piston for for free movement and no debris (but don't take it apart until you're sure you can put it back together again - it's not hard, but there''s not a lot of good documentation on how it's supposed to go together), check for messed up threads on the shaft, verify that the shaft is fully retracted, check for debris in the cylinder....
If that doesn't expose any problem, you might try removing the seal and screwing the piston in without the seal, see if it goes in all the way. It will be a lot easier to see where/why/if it hangs up without the resistance of the seal. If you do this, be careful with the seal or be prepared to buy another.
I would be reluctant to use a Dremel or any other powered abrasive - much too easy to round an edge at the seal groove or otherwise mess up the cylinder, and the tolerances here are pretty tight. Find a pointy tool wth a right-angle bend and use it to clean up the groove like @Jefco says - nothing awful will happen if you scrape the bottom of the groove. FLAPS will sell you a set of picks for a few bucks, and one of them will either be right or can be bent to make it right.I'll hit with a dremmel wire wheel. Fingers crossed.
How can I check is e brake plunger oriented correctly?The "bowed" outer line is perfectly normal and has no effect on the operation of the cable inside.
You said you "refurbed" the rear calipers... but did you dismantle them? Are you absolutely sure the e-brake plunger is correctly oriented and seated properly, and have you confirmed that the e-brake arm (and tapered key) is moving the plunger when it's rotated, before you repacked everything with the appropriate grease and sealed the rear boot back up?
How can I check is e brake plunger oriented correctly?