Selling the X & Bought an 75 Datsun 280Z

[lookforjoe]

Finally figured out how I can use all the 5 speed settings of the Volvo resistor pack. Been looking for a 4 speed switch without any success, ones I did buy listed as 4 speed, were not so.

I decided to add one of the micro switches originally installed with the aftermarket AC.

Modified the supplied bracket (sectioned, spot welded to correct the offset) so the microswitch lever sits behind the fan speed switch lever in the off position, and turns on between off & first speed detent

 

[lookforjoe]

Finally found a rubber seal that should work to refurbish the rear hatch Louvre. Also found a thin U-channel that will work for the center ridge.

 

[86X]

@lookforjoe just curious what AFR are you looking for at WOT? I use lambda its sampler for my small mind. I use lambda .8 or about 11.7 on the tune I have on my Exige for now. It has a SC on it so I was wondering on a NA car what would be a good number.

 

[lookforjoe]

@lookforjoe just curious what AFR are you looking for at WOT? I use lambda its sampler for my small mind. I use lambda .8 or about 11.7 on the tune I have on my Exige for now. It has a SC on it so I was wondering on a NA car what would be a good number.

I have no way of altering the system to change the WOT AFR's, all I could do was alter the TPS to delay the full rich condition. NA motors don't need richer than high 12's under WOT conditions, IMO. There are differing options on all this of course.

 

[lookforjoe]

Redid the Louvre outer edging/seal

The channel I bought worked, however it's not pliable to the extent of the original, so I had to cut slots where it wraps around at the top. I reversed it so the wide strip is on the inside, and works as a isolator to prevent the louvres from whacking the glass trim as it has been doing for the past 48(?) years

 

[lookforjoe]

Getting too cold to do much outside, in the mid 30's today. Still, I needed to install the belly pan on the Z

Also had replaced the broken door handle on the PS

 

[lookforjoe]

Gathering tubing in a variety of sizes & forms for the V6 conversion, and for the Volvo V8. Much cheaper to buy via AliExpress, 5m are typically same cost as a meter here.

metric nylon 8, 10, 12, 14mm

An -6, -8, -10

 

[lookforjoe]

Replacement rail came today.

Center port was no different than the first one, so I cut a chamfer with a countersink drill. Just went deep enough that the o-ring compresses without any squeeze-out

 

[lookforjoe]

Found a helpful thread on 350Z seat fitment.

Since I've been driving the X1/9 again, with the Honda S2000 seats, I really find the Datsun seats unbearable. My 350Z seats are rough, so while I work on fitting them, I've ordered new leather from Ridies.com. Much more price-friendly than the CanadaSeatSkins that I used for the Volvo seats, and full leather for all panels.

Going for Black w/ dk grey perforated inserts, green stitching. All the examples on their site have more contrast, like this

 

[lookforjoe]

Took the seats out of the 350Z today, and moved the car into her (my Mother) backyard, out of the way for her winter driveway access

Have to cut a section of the harness for each seat tomorrow

Power, heater & SRS

broke the pass seat switch, bent the bracket - seat was behind the car & I backed into it

Thankfully, I didn't damage the seat itself

Cut off the rail standoffs

2 rivets & 2 spot welds for each leg

Assuming these elements are for crash protection - I may want to add them back

Put some paint on the ground-down areas, to protect it for now

 

[lookforjoe]

Also swapped out the ProTunerZ rail today. Old one in foreground



Easy swap out. Injectors stay put. 2 -6 AN fittings and the 2 hold downs on the intake.



Countersunk the first one (hand cut, no chatter or burrs) ProTunerZ didn't want it back.





Oring seats properly now (in the old one)

 

[lookforjoe]

280Z track mounting differs - putting this here so I don't forget -

I may make rails/ brackets to match the 280Z rail location rather than use the stock rail.

 

[kmead]

Old plastic gets old. Embrittlement from plasticizer migration, heat cold cycling and abuse by previous owners takes its toll.

On the Elements one sees the same failure of the seat side plastics over and over where the user drags their leg over an unfaired edge which catches and then snaps a thin tab of plastic going into a very aggressive spring clip. The front edge of the side trims on most Elements is broken away due to this unanticipated user behavior relative to a poor choice by the design team and likely cost as the tool would have been larger and more complex. VWs tend to have the trim go around the entirety of the front seat to ensure the user doesn’t get hung up on seat trim.

 

[lookforjoe]

Took the seat power & heater wiring out of the 350Z







Couple of issues. I neglected to mark the fore/aft setting of the outer rail before I cut off the standoffs, and observe the stock rake of the cushion in the 350Z.





What I have found is that the 350Z rails sit precisely outboard of the 1/8" 1.5"x.5" C channel rails I'm making. Figure it's significantly more rigid than flat stock.







I'll possibly add cross braces of C channel. I'll tack the 350Z rails to these first, after I fill-weld the cuts.



doesn't look like the seat cushion / base will hit anywhere at this drop though



Have to figure out if I can dismantle the rails to allow for welding the new with the existing. Don't want to melt the plastic guide inserts.



Clearances





Recliner is up against the 280Z belt reel guide, without the protective cover. Probably won't be keeping the stock belts. I'll leave the trim off until I figure that out.





up against the ledge, pretty much



tangs for retaining outer cover have to be removed, hits the cross frame







Placement. As far back as it can sit, cushion is still further forward than the driver's seat





Like this, it sits lower than the stock seat cushion , feels comfortable as is.

 

[lookforjoe]

Old plastic gets old. Embrittlement from plasticizer migration, heat cold cycling and abuse by previous owners takes its toll.

On the Elements one sees the same failure of the seat side plastics over and over where the user drags their leg over an unfaired edge which catches and then snaps a thin tab of plastic going into a very aggressive spring clip. The front edge of the side trims on most Elements is broken away due to this unanticipated user behavior relative to a poor choice by the design team and likely cost as the tool would have been larger and more complex. VWs tend to have the trim go around the entirety of the front seat to ensure the user doesn’t get hung up on seat trim.

The trim on the 280Z is in much better shape than the 350Z - even though all the 350Z trim is technically more flexible compound & retained with plastic pegs & spring clips galore.

 

[lookforjoe]

Had a few hours today, so I filled the pie cuts & added reinforcing washers on the PS rails. Cut the 2 DS rails & started welding them also - looked back to check that the DS was the same setup

welded a bead on the backside where I had bent the plate







tools for cleanup



Added a rib across the top side of the bend also

 

[lookforjoe]

Got a dual temp rad switch for the V6 build, to work with the Volvo eFan relay. I'll add a 14x1.5 bung to the aluminum rad I will ultimately purchase for the conversion.

wiring pigtails have the wrong seal for the plug housing, correct for the sender. Waiting to hear back from FCP Euro.

 

[lookforjoe]

Took the airbags, seat belt receivers, and cushions off the seats

documenting wiring. I powered the seats, and made sure the seat tracks were set in the rearward position - they were.

track length

16.75"

airbag bracket

4 bolts on each cushion frame.

 

[lookforjoe]

Took the drivers cushion apart. Foam is pretty screwed, not sure if I can actually repair this EDIT - found a good DS cushion complete with heater pad (mine is damaged) for reasonable (in the scheme of things) pricing. This one has cracks all over the place. Since it's the outer bolster, it's gonna look like crapola if it's not perfect. I'd have bought a pass side since they are always in better shape, but the DS has a bump out between the legs

wire bolster weld was torn

Fixed that aspect - EDIT - looks like a stress crack below the spot weld ridge in line with the welded bar

 

[JKIDD]

Need another 350z?

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