I would certainly think so. It's essentially the same setup, just in front. Anything to stop the engine moving around under load I think would be a benefit. Between my urethane top steady and three more points of attachment, I don't think I'll be tearing any mounts soon or breaking the exhaust manifold..... That extra left side trans mount is essentially solid, there's a urethane bushing there for noise, but it's basically just a 14mm ARP bolt into the frame rail so it really can't flex at all... I like Jeff's idea of filling in the standard mounts, certainly easier than making a new solid bushing from scratch..👍🏼
Good thoughts I agree with your analysis. I've driven the X once with the suppressor and it does seem to improve the instant response nature of throttle tip in. As you say a 128 is pretty much identical just relocated driveline, so it ought to help in the regard just mentioned, and also from Steve's earlier post regarding transaxle preservation, both of which I am interested in improving.
 
I used to race a guy who drove an early 80's ford festiva. Fast as hell on a shoestring budget. Anyways, he would drive the the race, pop the hood and use a cable and shackle from the front frame to the front of the engine. Basically tying the engine down. Worked like a champ.
 
I used to race a guy who drove an early 80's ford festiva. Fast as hell on a shoestring budget. Anyways, he would drive the the race, pop the hood and use a cable and shackle from the front frame to the front of the engine. Basically tying the engine down. Worked like a champ.
I've seen similar to that with other FWD cars for track use. Basically solid mounts all around, including a beefy torque strut directly to the engine.

I seem to recall the Festiva was one of those cars that were easily engine swapped with another models engine? Cheap hot rod.
 
Is there a thread where you described the added mounts on your 128?
Pretty sure it's here, post#4:
And here for the poly bush Dog bone conversion:
 
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Pretty sure it's here, post#4:
Thanks. So this statement: "Since that trans had a left side mount, I added a tab to the left unibody rail with a captive nut welded in and used a urethane bushing and an ARP 14mm bolt", corresponds with this pic?:
IMG_20191124_204741679.jpg


I'd forgotten you used a Strada trans, so back in post #17 (in this thread) when you said "My engine/trans assembly is supported at both sides, so the center mount isn't really doing much" threw me off at first. I was hoping for a clever idea to add a extra mount to the X/128 trans. 😄 A long time ago we discussed various thoughts about redesigning and/or adding different mounts.
 
Yes, that pic plus one from underneath. That's before the weld got cleaned up and painted (hard to weld upside down, damn gravity...)
It's actually a South American Regatta trans, but I think they are the same.
IMG_20191124_204830369.jpg

This was that mount before welding to the rail...
IMG_20191124_175344371~2.jpg
 
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Thanks. So this statement: "Since that trans had a left side mount, I added a tab to the left unibody rail with a captive nut welded in and used a urethane bushing and an ARP 14mm bolt", corresponds with this pic?:
View attachment 60279

I'd forgotten you used a Strada trans, so back in post #17 (in this thread) when you said "My engine/trans assembly is supported at both sides, so the center mount isn't really doing much" threw me off at first. I was hoping for a clever idea to add a extra mount to the X/128 trans. 😄 A long time ago we discussed various thoughts about redesigning and/or adding different mounts.
I would think you could make a flange similar to the Regatta/Strada out of plate, either steel or aluminum, bolted to the outside edge of the case with slightly longer bolts. Then a similar one to mine on the frame if it's a 128. I'm not familiar with the clearances in an X/19, but I'm sure it wouldn't be too hard to come up with something suitable... Should only take 1 or 2 afternoons...?.🤔
 
Driving report after second run in the X with torque suppressor. I do observe slightly greater vibration at the steering wheel a medium speeds off throttle. So with lower revs, the frequency of the motor running seems to translate to some vibration.

I'd conclude it's a good tradeoff, the crisper immediate torque response and preservation of the transaxle.

Next, I will modify another crossmember for the 128 wagon, just spoke to the machinist on the 1600 engine build.
 
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