Looks good, Dean! Don't forget I have a crank pulley for you when you need it now that the old engine is out of my car.
Some thoughts: the 4mm dome, 9.8:1 comp pistons (
https://autoricambi.us/piston-set-1756-and-1995cc-9-8-1-compression-ratio/) are what I'm using on my 1.8 and I'm told by Bristow's they'll be fairly accurate to that spec with my engine and should
generally do alright with 92 octane fuel we have in WA. My research and some of our vendors suggest that these pistons in a 2.0-liter engine are over 10.0:1 compression to begin with due to the lengthened stroke of that engine. Add in the 1800 head which further increases compression and you might be at a point where you're closer to 11:1 compression and really struggling with detonation on 92 octane fuel.
I briefly considered oversized valves on my engine, but you need an experienced shop, or one who is following the Guy Croft book to the word. Otherwise you could spend a lot of money and potentially end up with no change or even worse performance. I didn't feel confident the cost/benefit was going to be there for me, or that I knew anyone that could really do the work properly with guaranteed results in our local area. Better safe than sorry, was my final thought.
As far as the dual Weber DCNFs, a properly rebuilt set that's set up correctly by someone who knows what they're doing (like Chad, it appears! Way to go, Chad!) shouldn't need to be touched after they're dialed in. I have several books on Weber tuning that I occasionally try to comprehend -- they make excellent bedtime reading!
According to Guy Croft, you
will need a cold air box to prevent detonation since the engine compartment gets pretty warm. I am likely going to have something custom built in metal that seals off the carbs, but connects to the stock air filter canister in the rear left corner of the engine bay. The Monte Hospital sells a fiberglass airbox specifically for DCNF 40s, but according to Croft it does cost a few horsepower due to the restricted height that allows it to fit under the closed hood. Because the 2.0 block is taller, there may be less space to work with necessitating something closer to the TMH design which was developed for the Montecarlo.
Good luck and Chris at Bristow's should be able to talk about some options when you're ready, whether or not you go with them in the end. Or the owner of Ralli-Round. I ended up buying some unnecessary parts for my project, so my advice is to speak with your builder before doing all your shopping. I also may have some parts you'll need because of this -- a full set of brass valve guides and new valve springs, for example. Csaba at Autoricambi is also great to talk to, especially about compression.
I think 9.8:1 compression, dual carbs, cams, and more efficient exhaust should have you at close to 150 hp on a 2.0-liter engine as it is.
Whew, long post. Good luck!