What did you do to your X1/9 today ?
- Thread starter Eastep
- Start date
fiatfactory
Steve Cecchele
2021 sometime....
a few more test fits over the weekend...
cooling pipes and tunnel have been removed from under the floor, water piping will still run thru the tunnel, but above the floor line now. I'm going to use 32mm plastic piping that is rated for hot water, still has 152psi safe working pressure at 80 degrees celcius, I need just 1 bar (15psi) ... no one can tell me how it will last at 110 degrees C, but I guess I will find out. (it's called Auspex piping for anyone thats interested - I believe it's an Aussie product)
radiator is from a 1980's diesel engined Ritmo , cost less than $100 from Italy, huge and light.
Steering rack out of Poland used on a polski/fiat product, 2.5 turns lock to lock with the same travel as the X19 rack... again under $100au
Willwood pedal box, bias adjustable (all brake components do not count in the "lemons dollars" running tally
SteveC
fiatfactory
Steve Cecchele
of course you would lose strength / ridgidity if you remove the underfloor tunnel section, it - in conjunction with the one above the floor (which has big cut outs in it ... probably production afterthoughts most likely as they are not reinforced or edged like the other cutouts that in that section... anyway the squared off edge cutouts crack at the corners ... so it is structural) the one above and below the floor together form a chassis rail
This is a race car - 6 point cage required - so slight loss is made up by large gain once the cage goes in.
this type of piping would be tough on a road car, it specifically says to keep it away from bitumous sealants (building products) and petro solvents / oils, and avoid scratches / gouges / nicks as they affect the pressure integrity ... I'm toying with the idea of passing it all thru a length of 70mm storm water pipe (if I can find an oval equivalent even better) as it runs thru the car to protect it against scratches / cuts etc and also seal it a little in case it does rupture, I can only do that as I'm also cutting into the upper tunnel to make it all fit
SteveC
Last edited:
fiatfactory
Steve Cecchele
A little more X19 play this afternoon after work, sun was out and clear skies and good light until about 6.30pm, in a couple of hours I did a test fit of the transmission oil cooler and oil pump, and test fitted my adjustable steering column. A couple of the potential drivers are not small guys, and to make it easy for driver ingress / egress I thought it would be a handy feature. I also cut the upper tunnel on one side and sectioned a piece out, moving that side across about 50mm / 2 inches, and the steering column is about 25mm/ 1 inch offset to the centre from the original LHD position / centreline, the reason again is driver comfort, and I'll move the seat and pedals to this new column centre.
SteveC
SteveC
DanielForest
True Classic
Why the steering wheel on the left? Because it was easier to mount the brake/master cylinder in the battery box?
gene cooley
Autocrosser
The Auspex piping specs say it's good for brief periods as high as 90C. Temps above that usually aren't rated. In a car that could see 100C or above it's most likely "off the chart". Some of the industrial piping used over here don't rate plastic piping above 200F.
As with everything else, there are exceptions.
BerlinaTO
Daily Driver
Replaced the 4xT10 dash bulbs in my ‘79 with LEDs. They fit without any modifications to the blue lens.
Here’s the eBay link if you’re looking for the same.....
Also changed the overhead dome light with this festoon LED. Size was supposed to be 38mm. It’s actually 39mm but fits fine.
Anything to help these aging eyes!
Livio
Here’s the eBay link if you’re looking for the same.....
10Pcs Warm White 5 LED T10 Car Dashboard Light Interior W5W 2825 158 192 194 | eBay
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ebay.us
Also changed the overhead dome light with this festoon LED. Size was supposed to be 38mm. It’s actually 39mm but fits fine.
2x WARM WHITE 38mm LED Festoon Dome Light Bulb 12x LED chips - 12v | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 2x WARM WHITE 38mm LED Festoon Dome Light Bulb 12x LED chips - 12v at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
ebay.us
Anything to help these aging eyes!
Livio
DanielForest
True Classic
Led light first, then, in no time, you will be fitting a K20. Ruining a perfectly stock car. I start to feeling guilt about introducing you to Dennis. 
Bjorn Nilson
True Classic
Do they work with the dimmer?
BerlinaTO
Daily Driver
They do work correctly as the incandescent ones did with the 2 level brightness switch. The dimmer on my ‘79 only affects the centre console lights. To be more clear, I changed the 4 lights in the gauges console behind the steering wheel.
DanielForest
True Classic
I'm not the one who will remind you about originality. My 1980 got a 1987 dash and leather door panel, race seat, modified engine with DCOE carbs breathing into the rear trunk, wide wheels and the plan to fit Faza flares... But I remember the first time I met Yves and when he told me he wants to keep is car ORIGINAL, with only slight mod to make it better... Yeah!
Dr.Jeff
True Classic
Bjorn, just in case you haven't seen this discussed previously, there were two types of dimmers used on the X (for different years, at least in the US). One of them will dim LED lights, the other type will not. Here is a thread describing them:
instrument cluster light switch & panel light rheostat
On the 79....we have both the instrument cluster lighting switch (photo attached) & the panel light rheostat. In looking at the wiring diagrams, it appears that the instr. cluster switch is an OFF-LOW-HIGH function for the instrument cluster ONLY and the panel light rheostat is for the fiber...
xwebforums.com
I've never cared for the odd system of switches, dimmers, and lights on the X's dash and console. Converting to LEDs is certainly a great upgrade, but I'd also like to rewire the whole layout. The goals being: 1) eliminate the switch in the console, 2) make all of the lights controlled by the dimmer, 3) eliminate the fiber optic in favor of individual lights, 4) reduce/simplify the number of wires behind the dash.
dllubin
Don
I feel the same way with the system. By replacing all the lamps with LEDs (including the fiber), the current draw could be low enough that the dimmer can handle all of them (If not, an emitter follower transistor could easily buffer it). Unlike the high/low switch for the instrument panel which limits current in the low position with a series resistor, the dimmer is set up like a voltage divider and would be much more effective in dimming low current devices like LEDs. You could use the switch but it would likely need a much larger resistor than it currently has to see significant dimming, and it only provides two brightness levels.
Tom Ginefra
True Classic
This afternoon I replaced the clutch slave cylinder that left me stranded, yesterday. Then I took her out for a nice long test drive until it was time to come home for dinner.