2021 sometime....Steve, which Lemons event are you building for? What dates?
The coolant piping sounds really interesting. Will you lose chassis strength from removing the tunnel box?
of course you would lose strength / ridgidity if you remove the underfloor tunnel section, it - in conjunction with the one above the floor (which has big cut outs in it ... probably production afterthoughts most likely as they are not reinforced or edged like the other cutouts that in that section... anyway the squared off edge cutouts crack at the corners ... so it is structural) the one above and below the floor together form a chassis rail
This is a race car - 6 point cage required - so slight loss is made up by large gain once the cage goes in.
this type of piping would be tough on a road car, it specifically says to keep it away from bitumous sealants (building products) and petro solvents / oils, and avoid scratches / gouges / nicks as they affect the pressure integrity ... I'm toying with the idea of passing it all thru a length of 70mm storm water pipe (if I can find an oval equivalent even better) as it runs thru the car to protect it against scratches / cuts etc and also seal it a little in case it does rupture, I can only do that as I'm also cutting into the upper tunnel to make it all fit
SteveC
Do they work with the dimmer?Replaced the 4xT10 dash bulbs in my ‘79 with LEDs.
They do work correctly as the incandescent ones did with the 2 level brightness switch. The dimmer on my ‘79 only affects the centre console lights. To be more clear, I changed the 4 lights in the gauges console behind the steering wheel.Do they work with the dimmer?
I'm not the one who will remind you about originality. My 1980 got a 1987 dash and leather door panel, race seat, modified engine with DCOE carbs breathing into the rear trunk, wide wheels and the plan to fit Faza flares... But I remember the first time I met Yves and when he told me he wants to keep is car ORIGINAL, with only slight mod to make it better... Yeah!Hahaha! No way, I promise! Especially since I know you will be watching me.
Bjorn, just in case you haven't seen this discussed previously, there were two types of dimmers used on the X (for different years, at least in the US). One of them will dim LED lights, the other type will not. Here is a thread describing them:Do they work with the dimmer?
I feel the same way with the system. By replacing all the lamps with LEDs (including the fiber), the current draw could be low enough that the dimmer can handle all of them (If not, an emitter follower transistor could easily buffer it). Unlike the high/low switch for the instrument panel which limits current in the low position with a series resistor, the dimmer is set up like a voltage divider and would be much more effective in dimming low current devices like LEDs. You could use the switch but it would likely need a much larger resistor than it currently has to see significant dimming, and it only provides two brightness levels.Bjorn, just in case you haven't seen this discussed previously, there were two types of dimmers used on the X (for different years, at least in the US). One of them will dim LED lights, the other type will not. Here is a thread describing them:
instrument cluster light switch & panel light rheostat
On the 79....we have both the instrument cluster lighting switch (photo attached) & the panel light rheostat. In looking at the wiring diagrams, it appears that the instr. cluster switch is an OFF-LOW-HIGH function for the instrument cluster ONLY and the panel light rheostat is for the fiber...xwebforums.com
I've never cared for the odd system of switches, dimmers, and lights on the X's dash and console. Converting to LEDs is certainly a great upgrade, but I'd also like to rewire the whole layout. The goals being: 1) eliminate the switch in the console, 2) make all of the lights controlled by the dimmer, 3) eliminate the fiber optic in favor of individual lights, 4) reduce/simplify the number of wires behind the dash.