Consider getting a really big "Cressent" (adjustable) wrench. They tend to have large wide jaws that reduce the chance of slipping, and being able to adjust it tight onto the sensor reduces the chance of rounding it off. Plus the handle is nice and big. This way you'll also have it for other odd sized, large fasteners when needed.
You should start your own thread for your build. Welcome to the swap club. I wonder how many K20/24 swaps have been done to date? Seems like a lot in progress lately.
. The new radiator didn't fit 100% as it turned out that it is 10mm taller than stock, so I need to lower it a little bit. I also need to weld on tabs for fastening the IC heat exchanger and included tabs didn't fit the aftermarket fans.
I found the same issues with a aluminum radiator for the X. Keep an eye on it for leaks, especially after a few months of use.Today I started a couple of preparations for the upcoming car season.
Last year the stock radiator turned out inefficient with the tuned UT engine, so I decided to go for an aluminum radiator and dual fans instead. Surprisingly this approach also saves a lot of weight. Stock radiator is 10.3kg and the alu is just 5.6 kg including fan(s)
I also prepared the roof for carbon fiber so I shaved off a millimeter from it. I will use the roof as a plug and remove most of existing material from it once the CF skin has been casted. I have big expectations for weight savings when ready as I lost a kilo just by shaving it.
I have still not decided about the wing but made plugs for carbon fiber stands as well. Carbon fiber and resin etc has been ordered but delivery is delayed due to Covid. I am looking forward to start working with it, hopefully next week. Carbon fiber fabrication is new to me.
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It is also time for MOT and I need to temporarily remove 140-150hp to pass inspection. I found a very "soft* wastegate that probably will remove the issue. Most likely a temporary "MOT ECU mapping* is needed as well.
Thats a lot of extra weight. I like the idea of having the extra coolant, but does the extra coolant "outweigh" 
the lower weight of the aluminum rad?
My rad is not yet mounted. I have stock and alu rads side by side so i will fill them with water tomorrow and measure volume and weight.
Maybe I can set my WG completely open but I don't think this is the best option. The boost controller cannot adjust boost lower than WG spring rate (1 bar) but I've found a WG that is soft like a rubber band so I think that will do the trick. But s new tune is probably needed for it to work as expected. Even if the car has no CAT they do emissions tests during MOT. Open crank case ventilation is s big No No, so I need to fix that, but otherwise I don't expect any complaints. With all the modern stuff I put on it, I believe the engine is very "green", even compared some modern cars.
Compared radiators today:Has anyone using the aluminum rad done comparison weights? Stock car wet, vs aluminum rad car wet?
I can believe that the aluminum rads is lighter, but is it also "larger" internally? I've got an aluminum rad on on of my cars. I had the engine out recently and found that when I reinstalled the engine and refilled the cooling system that it took a lot more coolant than the stock system did. (Per the manual.) Like a gallon and a half to two extra gallons.
You’re running which engine? And at what temperature do you start to become concerned with a X1/9? With a brand new, aluminum radiator and dual-fans, I was stuck in a drive thru line yesterday, watching the temp. gauge slowly creep upward....
If this is happening it means your cooling system is not up to spec. When everything in the system is working correctly, and of suitable capacity for your particular needs, then it will maintain a even temperature regardless of the situation. Suggest you start diagnosing the system until you find the weak link(s), and make the necessary repairs before it overheats.
Interesting, especially if you saw the master mechanic overhaul the complete cooling system, rad, fans, hoses, tank, thermostat...the only thing which isn’t new are the “stainless steel” pipes. I was thinking that sitting while idling for 12 minutes, where there was no wind at all, would naturally result in a few degrees elevation. Every now and then the rad fans would turn on. Here’s what happened in eight minutes, too much?
Well, if ‘particular needs’ means stuck in traffic from time to time, or a drive-thru, then yes, I’d certainly expect a rebuilt system to handle those situations. Who wouldn’t? Where’s the best place to take the engine temp, using what tool, and what temperatures are classified as too high? Of all the things they updated, this one (cooling system) seemed like a slam-dunk, lol.
I have the stock sensor/gauge and a separate temp sensor connected to ECU but they show about same temp so I find the stock gauge quite accurate actually. But this probably varies from car to car.
90c, so about 195f. Close enough, but if it shouldn’t increase during long idles, then I guess mine does. Hmmm.
