Another round of block sanding and prime again, only have under targa sail left on body , front and rear hood and headlights are next,no work on then just strip and epoxy prime ,
What did you do to your X1/9 today ?
- Thread starter Eastep
- Start date
Ron Avery
True Classic
That looks amazing! It is interesting what can be accomplished with color sanding and different stages of buffing compound. I had my 1976 done after I purchased it, it took 3 days. It helps if the paint and body work are done to a good standard, like your X1/9. I think more photos of other angles are needed for us to admire.
NEG
True Classic
Bit of a shake down drive today after my camshaft and seal swap. Kept revs below 4K to let the cam bed in a bit then eased the revs up a bit. Feels good, a little happier to rev without much loss lower down. No apparent leaks from the seals or gaskets either, result......however I’ve definitely got a gearbox oil leak problem, pretty sure this maybe the issue!
And I’ve not noticed it before but there appears to be a shaft seal on the outside of the boot! Maybe that’s why it’s leaking
And I’ve not noticed it before but there appears to be a shaft seal on the outside of the boot! Maybe that’s why it’s leaking
kmead
Old enough to know better
What did you do? Fill it with antifreeze?Bit of a shake down drive today after my camshaft and seal swap. Kept revs below 4K to let the cam bed in a bit then eased the revs up a bit. Feels good, a little happier to rev without much loss lower down. No apparent leaks from the seals or gaskets either, result......however I’ve definitely got a gearbox oil leak problem, pretty sure this maybe the issue!
And I’ve not noticed it before but there appears to be a shaft seal on the outside of the boot! Maybe that’s why it’s leaking
Yeah that seal is definitely on the wrong side of the flow.
NEG
True Classic
It‘s a Fiat 4331512 cam. I’ve not done anything to the rest of the engine.
Should of had the drive shaft boot done by now but some previous dipstick replaced one of the 3 bolts holding the boot gasket plate on with an E8 torx bolt and I don’t have a socket for one of those, doh!
Should of had the drive shaft boot done by now but some previous dipstick replaced one of the 3 bolts holding the boot gasket plate on with an E8 torx bolt and I don’t have a socket for one of those, doh!
JNewm
True Classic
Replaced the bushing/washer in the shift-linkage lollipop, took the X for a long-overdue drive over to Virginia Key, then laid down a coat of primer + three coats of gold on my new-to-me (from @MikeHynes) wheels. Planning to clear-coat them tomorrow, but happy with how they look already.
Before:
After:
I'm still trying to figure out the best way to get the lug-bolt recesses black. It's an awkward thing to tape off.
Before:
After:
I'm still trying to figure out the best way to get the lug-bolt recesses black. It's an awkward thing to tape off.
JNewm
True Classic
Finished up the wheels. I went back and forth for awhile on whether to black out the lug-bolt insets, but finally decided all-gold looks better. Interestingly, the clear-coat substantially darkened the color. I'm very happy with how it turned out--it looks like that sort of faded/muted gold you see on '60s and '70s supercars' wheels sometimes (GT40, Stratos come to mind). Before the clear, the gold was really shiny/brassy and a bit tacky-looking.
Comparison of black vs. gold insets. (You can also see the brassy/shiny gold paint, as these are pre-clearcoat.
Comparison of black vs. gold insets. (You can also see the brassy/shiny gold paint, as these are pre-clearcoat.
nichol01
True Classic
I agree. I like the all gold look. Nice
Dr.Jeff
True Classic
Jimmy, I always admire how shinny your paint is and how clean the car looks. I am not good about detailing my cars at all.
NEG
True Classic
Managed to get the drive shaft boot replaced. The long drive shaft on the 1300 has to be removed to do this…the short I understand can be done on the car…
During removal the seal from the old boot just plopped out of the boot, no wonder it was leaking. The replacement is smaller and a slightly different construction. Hopefully it will seal better, I also replaced the tripode bearing whilst I was there.
During removal the seal from the old boot just plopped out of the boot, no wonder it was leaking. The replacement is smaller and a slightly different construction. Hopefully it will seal better, I also replaced the tripode bearing whilst I was there.
NEG
True Classic
Short drive shaft done. For reference no need to remove this one, remove the brake calliper, undo the three short bolts holding the drive shaft inner boot plate and pull the boot forward. Line up the tripode cutouts then disconnect the hub from the strut and swing the A arm down pulling the shaft out of the box. Have a tray underneath to catch the oil. The shaft can then be swung to the rear of the car to gain access to the tripode and boot…
Agnelli
True Classic
Upgraded my battery ground to chassis cable today. Per electrical system threads here on the forum folks that know (Thanks Bob Brown) recommend installing a heavier 2 gauge ground cable. My first attempt a year or two ago was a product acquired at the local parts counter, likely O'Reilly's. Never did like it, the clamp side was inferior and a pain in the neck to secure to the negative terminal. In removing it recently to perform a transaxle out / fix my oil galley plug leak, I failed to regain a secure negative battery clamp connection when attempting to reinstall. Went on to eBay and ordered the following product (no affiliation with vendor). Product listing allows buyer to select bolt dimension to chassis and cable length. Super pleased with the product. Inexpensive, arrived quickly, mounted up beautifully. Treated the chassis end to some dialectric grease while in there for good measure and long term oxidation prevention.
Next I am going to order one for my 128.
Battery Cable Negative 2 Gauge AWG Marine Grade Tinned Copper - Car, Boat, Solar | eBay
The copper conductor features stranding which is tin plated to resist corrosion. The lug choices are 1/4, 5/16 or 3/8 with adhesive heat shrink tubing applied matching your wire color choice. Introducing our multi-rated, multi-purpose, flexible, real copper battery cable.
www.ebay.com
Next I am going to order one for my 128.
