What did you do to your X1/9 today ?

kmead said:
Yes he was one of the two folks who had an issue with the B Series cooling and piping. Honda piping to all the elements in the system is notably complex and hard to parse out what port leads to what. The K series are much simpler in many ways.


You are recalling this thread. There was another from a gent in England I haven’t tracked down.

b16, 2 steps forward, 1.5 steps back.

So after initial start up from last post; 2nd engine purrs like a kitten at idle once cam timing was fixed re-pulled engine clutch plate (new) was bad engine back in retweaked shifter rod to make 5th and reverse easier. noticed digital gauge I oppsed and programmed peak rather than live for ECT...
xwebforums.com
Click to expand...
Thanks Karl, I thought so. I'm thinking there might be something to his whole design layout that's not as easy to suss out like a basic stock cooling system. Might take some investigating, as it sounds like Odie is doing. ;)
 
kmead said:
Yes he was one of the two folks who had an issue with the B Series cooling and piping. Honda piping to all the elements in the system is notably complex and hard to parse out what port leads to what. The K series are much simpler in many ways.


You are recalling this thread. There was another from a gent in England I haven’t tracked down.

b16, 2 steps forward, 1.5 steps back.

So after initial start up from last post; 2nd engine purrs like a kitten at idle once cam timing was fixed re-pulled engine clutch plate (new) was bad engine back in retweaked shifter rod to make 5th and reverse easier. noticed digital gauge I oppsed and programmed peak rather than live for ECT...
xwebforums.com
Click to expand...
Karl for the win. Ran
Dr.Jeff said:
Thanks Karl, I thought so. I'm thinking there might be something to his whole design layout that's not as easy to suss out like a basic stock cooling system. Might take some investigating, as it sounds like Odie is doing. ;)
Click to expand...
Investigation is my middle name! Yeah. Ran cool as a cucumber for quite awhile. Probably something easy. If not. B20 vtec (like the other b swap) here I come!

Odie.
 
Well went to our first local car get together, lots of compliments, here is a few pictures
 

Attachments

  • 8C58F982-76E5-4040-A9E9-2D8FCAFB9D23.jpeg
    8C58F982-76E5-4040-A9E9-2D8FCAFB9D23.jpeg
    158.1 KB · Views: 107
  • BC22689C-447C-4472-8BD4-D0CC7C85A95F.jpeg
    BC22689C-447C-4472-8BD4-D0CC7C85A95F.jpeg
    269 KB · Views: 114
  • 4B196DAB-C111-4D5C-86FB-20C5B1184382.jpeg
    4B196DAB-C111-4D5C-86FB-20C5B1184382.jpeg
    324.1 KB · Views: 117
  • 4EB8AC07-56BE-4778-93FD-5971A68040F9.jpeg
    4EB8AC07-56BE-4778-93FD-5971A68040F9.jpeg
    167.5 KB · Views: 108
Took her to a track nearby for some testing in 30 deg Celsius heat. With her new high performance MWB head, aluminium radiator, repaired gearbox, adjustable AVO suspension and Porterfield performance brake pads, she behaved quite well. Next stop, early June: Empire Cup Vintage racing event at Lime Rock, CT.
 

Attachments

  • xsanair.JPG
    xsanair.JPG
    57.6 KB · Views: 90
  • 280374143_5139529419434300_3464659563037494716_n.jpg
    280374143_5139529419434300_3464659563037494716_n.jpg
    151.3 KB · Views: 88
Finally unwrapped the Miata and the X. The X started literally on the first tap. Died and then started and ran fine shortly thereafter. I never cease to be amazed at how easy and reliably this car starts.

The Miata will need to be towed by my tractor so I can replace the timing belt but that is a different story. Need a battery too, I guess being a 2013 vintage battery will do that.
 
Cleaned and repainted the lower door sill and re-attached the trim

Before - the lower door trim had worn though the paint & primer:

IMG_1827.JPG


Removed the trim piece from the door bottom. It was dirty underneath but no rust. So just cleaned up some of the rustproofing. A coat of rust converter on the sill and let dry.

Cleaned the lower door sill, scuffed with 320 grit and masked off:

IMG_2012.JPG


Etching primer and paint. Then added a .75" wide strip of 2mil Teflon clear tape:

IMG_2013.JPG


IMG_2016.JPG


catalog.cshyde.com

Optically clear FEP tape made with Teflon® fluoropolymer | .75" x 5 yds. | CS Hyde Company

23-FEP Tape is a combination of optically clear FEP Film offering excellent electrical and chemical resistance and a pressure sensitive high temperature silicone adhesive system.
catalog.cshyde.com catalog.cshyde.com

Thin coat of silicon lube on the rubber trim and re-attached to the door. Hopefully this will prevent any more scuffing.


Roy
 
kmead said:
Congrats.

Would that be this suspension kit?

Fiat X19 Avo GTZ Coilover Kit Av-GTZ220-221 Only £0.00

www.dcperformance.co.uk
Click to expand...
Yes, that's the one. Springs: 175 lb front / 225 lb rear. Had to order and install top collets with flat bearing on the front struts. AVO provided 2 machined collets with bearings for £20 each. I feel that it should have been included with the set. Otherwise, steering effort increases and the collets will wear out. Photo below collet as supplied (top) and machined collet with flat bearing (bottom)

20210312_101535.jpg
 
Alain - The Red Scorpion said:
Took her to a track nearby for some testing in 30 deg Celsius heat. With her new high performance MWB head, aluminium radiator, repaired gearbox, adjustable AVO suspension and Porterfield performance brake pads, she behaved quite well. Next stop, early June: Empire Cup Vintage racing event at Lime Rock, CT.
Click to expand...
Also, what have you done to keep the rear trunk open when driving? I have a few ideas about how I was going to do that, but I'm curious about your installation. Having DCOE's breathing in the rear trunk makes me want to help air circulating. I will fit the Faza snorkel, I have cut all the meshes in the side scoops, I will not put back the panel between the trunk and engine compartment (unless building an air box.... that also may be another future project) and I was thinking about doing 2 or 3 inches circular holes behind the license plate (and moving the plate a little outward with spacers to help air flow).

But in the meantime, I'm concentratig on keeping the family float running (wife, son and daughter each having their own car), removing the head from my Audi a4 (timing belt tensions failed, and engine won't turn all the way with new chain). My daily driver is a 2001 Nissan Sentra, my son Bertone x19 needing a new head gasket, then finishing the brake job on my 1980 solo car (putting back the pedal box in place and bleeding the brakes and clutch). My 19 years old son is becoming better and better working on car. It won't be long before he will be able to show me stuff and I'm sure he will be a better mechanics than I am!
 
Alain - The Red Scorpion said:
Yes, that's the one. Springs: 175 lb front / 225 lb rear. Had to order and install top collets with flat bearing on the front struts. AVO provided 2 machined collets with bearings for £20 each. I feel that it should have been included with the set. Otherwise, steering effort increases and the collets will wear out. Photo below collet as supplied (top) and machined collet with flat bearing (bottom)

View attachment 61802
Click to expand...
Let us know how much you like the handling. I'm running stiffer springs (I think I have 300 in front and 200 in the rear) and I'm considering upping more (400 in front and 350 in the rear). Autoslalom car could use much stiffer, but my car will see some street duty for awhile
 
DanielForest said:
Let us know how much you like the handling. I'm running stiffer springs (I think I have 300 in front and 200 in the rear) and I'm considering upping more (400 in front and 350 in the rear). Autoslalom car could use much stiffer, but my car will see some street duty for awhile
Click to expand...
With 175 lb front and 225 lb rear and shocks at their "softest", the car is reasonably confortable on the road. Moving shock to +1 in front and +2 in rear makes it "jumpy" on anything but very smooth surface. On track, with 7 and 8 in. wheels and 185-60/205-60 Toyo R888, the car is "glued" to the pavement, very neutral with slight understeer easily corrected with mild lift-off of the gas pedal. May benefit from front antiroll bar. Most noticeable improvement (besides more potent engine) are the brakes, with Porterfield pads on all 4. Thanks Matt!
 
DanielForest said:
Also, what have you done to keep the rear trunk open when driving? I have a few ideas about how I was going to do that, but I'm curious about your installation. Having DCOE's breathing in the rear trunk makes me want to help air circulating. I will fit the Faza snorkel, I have cut all the meshes in the side scoops, I will not put back the panel between the trunk and engine compartment (unless building an air box.... that also may be another future project) and I was thinking about doing 2 or 3 inches circular holes behind the license plate (and moving the plate a little outward with spacers to help air flow).

But in the meantime, I'm concentratig on keeping the family float running (wife, son and daughter each having their own car), removing the head from my Audi a4 (timing belt tensions failed, and engine won't turn all the way with new chain). My daily driver is a 2001 Nissan Sentra, my son Bertone x19 needing a new head gasket, then finishing the brake job on my 1980 solo car (putting back the pedal box in place and bleeding the brakes and clutch). My 19 years old son is becoming better and better working on car. It won't be long before he will be able to show me stuff and I'm sure he will be a better mechanics than I am!
Click to expand...
Rear trunk cover: a small piece of wood held with tie-wraps to the U-shaped lock rod. I think it helps evacuate some of the hot air from the engine through the rear trunk (panel removed)
 
roys said:
Cleaned and repainted the lower door sill and re-attached the trim

Before - the lower door trim had worn though the paint & primer:

View attachment 61798

Removed the trim piece from the door bottom. It was dirty underneath but no rust. So just cleaned up some of the rustproofing. A coat of rust converter on the sill and let dry.

Cleaned the lower door sill, scuffed with 320 grit and masked off:

View attachment 61799

Etching primer and paint. Then added a .75" wide strip of 2mil Teflon clear tape:

View attachment 61800

View attachment 61801

catalog.cshyde.com

Optically clear FEP tape made with Teflon® fluoropolymer | .75" x 5 yds. | CS Hyde Company

23-FEP Tape is a combination of optically clear FEP Film offering excellent electrical and chemical resistance and a pressure sensitive high temperature silicone adhesive system.
catalog.cshyde.com catalog.cshyde.com

Thin coat of silicon lube on the rubber trim and re-attached to the door. Hopefully this will prevent any more scuffing.


Roy
Click to expand...
A suggestion to avoid the scuffing would be to acquire a strip of the urethane plastic they use for bug/stone guard to cover the sill. That stuff is pretty indestructable and would protect the paint. My X has the same problem.
 
Dr.Jeff said:
These sort of situations are very frustrating indeed. As I read you post one of my first thoughts was like you - the voltage regulator, considering you've already taken care of the usual bad grounds, etc.

I'm with you, I don't see how the lower fuse rating could cause any issue so long as it had not blown. I recall that thread regarding the incorrect fuse installed in later X's. It still sounds very odd to me.

If your issue has resolved then I assume it was the ignition switch. If so I'd consider doing a "master relay" mod to eliminate the current through the switch, transferring it to a high quality, large amperage relay. I'm not talking about any BWM, relays to individual accessories, etc, as I know you have sorted all of that already. This is a main power relay to "bypass" the load from the ignition switch completely. I went the other route and added relays to every electrical component that can draw more than a moderate level of load, giving each component a separate power feed. But it turned out to be more than I anticipated with several new relays and a lot of rewiring (I installed all of the new relays into the existing fuse/relay box by adding more of those little factory plastic relay holders to it). If I were to do it again I think I'd go the other route and add a master relay at the ignition switch instead of most of the individual ones. @kmead has discussed this approach in better detail before, maybe he can elaborate more.
Click to expand...
I think you're right, the master relay is probably the ultimate bulletproof setup. I think I'll put that on the Winter docket :)
 
Took my X out for some testing. Comparing acceleration times from 3000 to 5000 rpm in 4th gear. Standard Fuel Injection. With stock engine: 17 sec. With MWB perfomance head: 15 sec. May be able to drop another sec. with some more weight removal and cam tuning on dynamometer.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top