What did you do to your X1/9 today ?

Last night I fired up green car to go run an errand.... and it died a hundred feet from my driveway :(
Starts when I mash the gas pedal, runs for a second and then dies unless I mash the pedal again. Easy diagnosis, the primary main jet is completely blocked so fuel delivery is all through the accelerator pump. No time to fuss with jets after dark, so left the car in front of the neighbors and took another car, got back to green this morning.

The main jet was clogged by the corpse of what appeared to be a small winged ant. One spritz of carb cleaner through the jet and all is well.
 
Finally got the cooling system back to "normal". Was fighting leaks at the heater core and kept breaking those plastic elbows. Broke off the radiator bleeder while bleeding it so I soldered a new on one. I decided to make this new one about 1 1/2" taller so as to make accessing it easier in the frunk. The removable top still stores just fine. Also found out one of my fans was not working in the process so I hardwired both to a switch in the cabin. Ran the car around the block a bit and it stayed at 190 pretty well, only when I was bringing it home did it hit 210 but no higher.

Put all new pads on, pedal a little squishy now, so I'll have to figure out what I did wrong tomorrow.
 
After all these years I finally got rid of that rubber iron lung bellows looking E-brake cover and replaced it with something a little better looking in my opinion.
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Posted pictures and am now having second thoughts.
 
I definitely like it more than the stock rubber cover. Not only do I dislike a rubber boot, but the shape/design of it is really ugly...as you say it looks like an old iron lung or black-smith's bellows....

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Is that a custom made cover or something aftermarket?
 
It is a DIY. I did the designing and my wife did the sewing.
I had the rubber one so long that it is going to take a while for this one not to look strange to me.
 
Project Mutant: Wherein I am resurrecting a true basket case 1982 X1/9. The car was purchased, non-running, and in so many separate pieces that I can't count, along with 4 large containers of misc. parts. After tearing apart large sections of the beast, including the clutch, clutch cylinder, brake cylinders, replacing master cylinders for the brake and clutch, the water pump, the whole interior, removing the radiator, and the coolant tubes and the tray underneath the car that contains them, (drilling out nearly 100 spot welds), and other components and parts too numerous to mention), I got the new improved stainless steel 1.5" tubes in place, the new stainless steel heater tubes in place (both running in the under-tray), and the tray completely rebuilt, after adding approx 3/8" to the top of the tray. Today, the tray and tubes have been reunited with the car. Body panel bonding epoxy, plus pop rivets plus self-tapping screws. Getting the tray mounted is the biggest component of the cooling system that can now proceed to be connected to the rebuilt heater core, the new aluminum 2-fan radiator, and etc. I will try to attach some horror story and success photos in this link.

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Whoever owned the car before me had apparently used radiator leak seal in it, and then left it in place. I have MANY more pictures of the horror that ensued. I am now getting ready to wrap up the cooling system stage of the resurrection, and expect to have the radiator, heater core, new tubes, and ALL associate plumbing connected and back in place and functioning by next weekend. 11 months of a few hours a weekend in, and the car is still not drivable. It runs, and most of the peripheral parts and pieces are slowly getting serviced and replaced and rebuilt and improved. Once the cooling system is completed, the remainder of the list of to-do items is still as long as my arm.
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Indeed good work. A thread of your own documenting all you have done would be a great way to document what you have done.

Your solution to getting everything into the undertray is a good one
 
Darin is right. Pre-bent 45 degree angles with thin wall stainless steel tubing. Only problem is finding someone who can TIG weld .035" wall stainless in Jacksonville, FL. Now, after going through 4 shops and a couple independents, word of mouth worked, and now "I got a guy" that can do that.

Karl - I actually started a thread over on Fiat Forum before I knew that XWeb was even here. I think I'll pick up from this point on XWeb going forward. Still a long journey to go! This is a MUCH more active site than the forum site.

Thanks for the kudos. More to come!

If anyone is interested in 'catching up', the other thread is...
https://www.fiatforum.com/x1-9/452361-restoring-82-x1-9-a.html
 
Wow, tons of progress!! That engine looks like it could be a display in a museum :)

One suggestion that's easier while the engine is out but certainly do-able with it in, is to graft in a permanent installation of a small fuel pressure gage in the line between the pump and filter. It's inconspicuous yet easily read when needed.
 
Got the wife's Blue 82 up and running again. It run's so much better on all 4. And with the exhaust closed up like it is supposed to be it sounds a LOT better now.
Even did the fuel hoses (thanks Bayless) their Kit makes the job a LOT easier.

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Got done with that (hear cycled it about 4-5 times in the garage over a few days and then re-torqued the head bolts. Now she is going to drive it for a week or two and I am thinking re=tork them again.

Got all done with that and then started swapping double relay's and Air flow valve from my 86 to hers to figure out why her fuel pump won't turn on (Had a wire running from the rear window defrost direct to the fuel pump and it would work fine) But I wanted to find the problem and fix it. Well, I should have started at the fuse (drrrr) I know that is where you should alway's start first. But the problem was intermittent so I figured it was something wearing... Turns out it was a "burning problem at the fuse alright."

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put a blade fuse between the wires (that were not damaged in the meltdown) and it worked just like it was supposed to.... (would have been easier to have done that on the side of the road instead of running the temp jump wire (that was put in on the Ashland gathering trip)... but it is fixed now (also cut out a few but crimp connectors) there are a few of them in the fuse panel not happy about that)
 
Also did an upgrade on the frunk trunk latch cable. Purchased a new solid cable and I could not get it to stay clamped on the over center handle. So again with the 10spd break cable.

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did not even have to use the adjuster on the inside. I have about a foot extra on the other side just pulled it all snug with a pair of plyers and tighened the bolt on the latch side and it works great now!

I should do the same for the wifes car. Was funny she had no idea where the handle was as NONE of our car's have ever had a frunk cable that worked. Hood closed like it should. (it would look so much better if Had not crunched the other end of it. But that was another storie. baught some body hammers today might take the hood off and think about bounding the dents out. But I got another project ahead of that one.)
 
Does getting a GREAT tool to work on the x1/9 count?

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very much looking forward to getting this up and working. (don't even have 4 walls or a non-leaking roof yet. but I will soon have a lift!!!

(Now why did I take the pictures toward the most cluttered, did not clean that area at all before starting this project.)

the Wife and I unloaded the lift from a dodge van with just a come-a-long and a cherry picker. (would you believe I have dead explored in the backyard that was parked PERFECT to put a strap to two be able to pull with the come-a-long)
 
On my car the rail to injector hoses like to be just a couple of mm shorter than what MWB calls for---IIRC MWB cuts them at 45mm but on my setup that puts the fuel rail in tight contact with the plenum log. I prefer to have just a smidge of room between the plenum log and the rail, so I go with 42-43mm.
 
Purchased a new solid cable and I could not get it to stay clamped on the over center handle. So again with the 10spd break cable.
Rod, I'm curious what was the issue with getting the solid cable to stay on the handle? I need to replace one and I'm debating on what to use. So knowing more about your experience here will help.

Nice car lift, wish I had one. Be sure to properly mount it to the floor and that the concrete slab is correct construction for it. Just look at some online photos to see why.
 
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