Looking good so far.
Additional tips for the next couple of steps:
1. Those magnets are strong but can be brittle, so try not to put them under any mechanical pressure, like accidentally squashing them with a cam lobe. At this point I would remove the magnets, and then remove the buckets and shims (buckets are also sometimes called tappets and cam followers), keeping the shims with their buckets and the buckets in order.
2. When cleaning, treat your cam box-to-cyl head surfaces delicately. I would suggest purchasing this scraper or equivalent good quality:
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/SER...RV8QyF81gGJcxP5vX2ZRrvy2U3h8pYegaAhQLEALw_wcB Clean the two cam box-to-cyl head surfaces first while the tool is still factory sharp, and use a very light touch...gouging will create messy leaks! I am of the opinion that a good quality sharp gasket scraper, wielded with delicacy, and from very shallow cutting angles, is better for this particular job than razor blade-based solutions.
3. Once the head is off the block, post good close-up pics of the business side of the head, and the head gasket in-place and undisturbed on the block, for examination by our "braintrust." We should be able to see if there was a detonation situation.
4. In all fairness because it's pretty much a given with aluminum cyl heads, you should expect to take the head to a good local machine shop and have them check it for flatness within spec and, if necessary, resurfacing. Unless something really bad happened, the block won't need resurfacing.
5. The block will have head gasket residue on it. To clean the top surface of the block, first thing is to stuff up ALL of the many coolant and oil holes in the block BUT of course be careful that you do not accidentally put the stuffing too far down to where it gets lodged in the hole! No need to stuff the bolt holes or the cyl bores. Start your cleaning by doing a couple of quick passes with the scraper to get the big stuff, and vacuum up debris between passes. Then use a gasket solvent
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80645-Low-Gasket-Remover/dp/B0018PXX2I and small steel bristle brushes to scrub the surface. You'll find the surface of the block is not perfectly smooth, it has very fine rotary broach marks from factory machining. Once you can see and feel them with a fingernail, it's clean enough.
***DON"T use any kind of "whizzer cookie"--they remove metal, NOT desirable. DON'T use a bristle based cookie like this
https://www.amazon.com/3M-3M-18730-...HTG9CDXVB67&psc=1&refRID=G51SMYBBAHTG9CDXVB67, they work but they are not a great idea for cleaning a block in-place----they create too much debris that is guaranteed to get into the crankcase and coolant passages.
Gun bore brushes and general solvent like carb or brake cleaner are great for cleaning out head bolt holes in the block. .40 or .45 will work. 9mm too small.