Removing the head

[lookforjoe]

What you DON'T want to do in this whole process is create more problems than you started with. So, don't wash the bores / block with water or any water based solvents, or you will definitely oxidize the cylinder walls. Rotate the crank & clean the piston crowns @ TDC for each one. I would smear a coat of grease in the exposed bores to keep moisture out of the hatching, especially if the head is going to be off for awhile.

 

[Tavalin]

What you DON'T want to do in this whole process is create more problems than you started with. So, don't wash the bores / block with water or any water based solvents, or you will definitely oxidize the cylinder walls. Rotate the crank & clean the piston crowns @ TDC for each one. I would smear a coat of grease in the exposed bores to keep moisture out of the hatching, especially if the head is going to be off for awhile.

Thank you!!! I will ensure I do that. I didn’t know that oxidation could happen.
My friend knows of a shop that will check and shave the head if necessary. Also, clean everything up. He said all that for less than $100USD. I might try them since they don’t want to automatically perform a total rebuild.
I will let you know what happens.
Now, just waiting on parts to ensure that I have everything I ordered. Then, order what I didn’t...lol
Today, I have a sick boy at home so I doubt I will have the time when I get home from work to do anything. Mama’s going to need a break from both by that time. However, think protecting the cylinder walls is very important, especially here in Florida.
Thanks,
Mike

 

[carl]

There are two dowels that go between the head and block, one at each end of the motor. Not unusual for them to get stuck in the old head gasket when you pull it off. Be sure you have both of them. I concur with others, the piston tops look good. Don't let mission creep take over on this project.

 

[Tavalin]

There are two dowels that go between the head and block, one at each end of the motor. Not unusual for them to get stuck in the old head gasket when you pull it off. Be sure you have both of them. I concur with others, the piston tops look good. Don't let mission creep take over on this project.

Carl,
I didn’t see anything I would call dowels on the block or the bottom of the head. Nothing was in the gasket when I took it off either. I do see something in the two end bolt holes that have are hollow in the middle. Could that be what you are talking about?
If not, maybe another part I have to purchase.

Where on the block should they be?
Mike

 

[JimD]

Where on the block should they be?

I think you found them Mike. Look at the two lower outside holes on this block. You can see the "dowels" which look like little pieces of pipe.

 

[Tavalin]

I think you found them Mike. Look at the two lower outside holes on this block. You can see the "dowels" which look like little pieces of pipe.
View attachment 27454

JimD,
Yep, that what I see. They are still in there waiting patiently for me to get all the pieces and parts together, shave the head and try to follow all the instructions needed to put Humpty Dumpty back together.
While I have the X1/9 on jack stands I am going to remove the radiator and clean all that up too. Doesn’t make sense to me to risk not flushing everything out. I really need to replace the leaky radiator.
Thanks,
Mike

 

[Jefco]

If they shave much off the head, you'll have to make the dowels a little shorter, so they don't keep the head from sealing down.

 

[carl]

Yes, those are the dowels I was mentioning. They should come out without too much effort. If you do remove them be sure to install them on reassembly, they locate the head on the block.

 

[lookforjoe]

Yes, those are the dowels I was mentioning. They should come out without too much effort. If you do remove them be sure to install them on reassembly, they locate the head on the block.

As important, they center the head gasket fire-rings over the bores - which you do want to check, BTW - I had a new HG from Obert (he replaced the gasket after the failure) that was mis-registered and the fire ring overlapped the bore, which led to gasket failure (my last one, Jun2017) within a few hundred miles

 

[Rod Midkiff]

This far in. Also, think about replacing the valve guide seals. with the head off it's an easy job. Also there is a seal behind the cam gear, pull the gear and replace that it's not much $ and very easy to do with the head off.

I saw where you said replacing one fuel hose, No, do them all MWB sells a kit.

 

[Tavalin]

This far in. Also, think about replacing the valve guide seals. with the head off it's an easy job. Also there is a seal behind the cam gear, pull the gear and replace that it's not much $ and very easy to do with the head off.

I saw where you said replacing one fuel hose, No, do them all MWB sells a kit.

Rod,
Midas well is a very deep well, isn’t it? Makes total sense and I hope I have the ability to do that. I am going to look in the service manual on how difficult it is.
I have to replace one fuel injector hose clamp. I dorked it up installing the new fuel injectors and has a very small leak. I am replacing all the hoses while I am in there. I am just buying things little by little. We are in the season of spending (autos on the sideline).
So, we just had our wedding anniversary, now my wife’s birthday then Thanksgiving and finally to top it all off, Christmas/Hanukkah season.
It will be after the first of the year before I can buy new parts (unless one of the radiators offered come to fruition, waiting to hear back on one).
Enjoy this season,
Mike

 

[Tavalin]

This far in. Also, think about replacing the valve guide seals. with the head off it's an easy job. Also there is a seal behind the cam gear, pull the gear and replace that it's not much $ and very easy to do with the head off.

I saw where you said replacing one fuel hose, No, do them all MWB sells a kit.

Rod,
Ordered the valves guide seals and the seal behind the cam gear pulley. I hope these will be easy.

I am going to attack the radiator as soon as get the time and energy. Then on to the head and reassembly of the head. Still need to have it checked and shaved if needed. I have a friend who just had an engine rebuilt so I am just going to take it over to them claiming it is a Chevy or something...lol.
Anyway, slowly getting there.
Mike

 

[Pete Whitstone]

Rod,
Ordered the valves guide seals and the seal behind the cam gear pulley. I hope these will be easy.

The one behind the cam gear is easy. The valve guide seals will require the head to be broken down - in other words, the valves removed. Which you will have to do anyway if the head needs to be skimmed. It's all pretty easy, but you do need a valve spring compressor tool, and you will need to keep all springs, valves and keepers in order and put them back where they came from.

 

[Tavalin]

I started back up the project and had the head looked at by a couple of gentlemen that rebuild classic engines. They do beautiful work. They looked at the head and said it was not warped but wanted to rebuild it. I said thank you and went home.
Now that has been done, I went to mount the thermostat housing back to the head with a new gasket. The gasket works for the head but the thermostat housing is different. It seems to be the one for the EGR type. Do I need to replace the thermostat housing? Is the one pictured below incorrect?
Pictures of the thermostat housing and the head.
Please, help...
Mike

 

[JimD]

Someone will certainly correct me if I am wrong, but I believe the "4th" hole you need to worry about would be in the head, not the t-stat housing. The early carbed 1500 engines (79-80) still had the EGR circuit with the 4th hole in the head. There were 2 t-stat gaskets and you had to be careful to get the correct gasket for what you were trying to accomplish with the EGR circuit. If you were eliminating it, you wanted the gasket that blocked the hole, if you were keeping the EGR circuit you wanted the gasket that allowed coolant to flow thru the hole. These pictures were made by AnthonyG many years ago when he was trying to get the proper gasket for his desmogged 79 1500.


Having said all that, I believe your head doesn't have 4th hole necessary for the EGR circuit. I notice you didn't provide a picture of the gasket you have in hand. What does it look like? I am curious, even though I think the later heads didn't have the EGR circuit and the gasket type issue is moot. You can read the MWB description on the "open" t-stat gasket and see the "not for EGR equipped cars" mentioned.

 

[Tavalin]

Someone will certainly correct me if I am wrong, but I believe the "4th" hole you need to worry about would be in the head, not the t-stat housing. The early carbed 1500 engines (79-80) still had the EGR circuit with the 4th hole in the head. There were 2 t-stat gaskets and you had to be careful to get the correct gasket for what you were trying to accomplish with the EGR circuit. If you were eliminating it, you wanted the gasket that blocked the hole, if you were keeping the EGR circuit you wanted the gasket that allowed coolant to flow thru the hole. These pictures were made by AnthonyG many years ago when he was trying to get the proper gasket for his desmogged 79 1500.
View attachment 27807 View attachment 27808 View attachment 27806

Having said all that, I believe your head doesn't have 4th hole necessary for the EGR circuit. I notice you didn't provide a picture of the gasket you have in hand. What does it look like? I am curious, even though I think the later heads didn't have the EGR circuit and the gasket type issue is moot. You can read the MWB description on the "open" t-stat gasket and see the "not for EGR equipped cars" mentioned.

JimD,
I have the non-egr gasket from MWB. I bought two just in case. So the housing is correct and I don’t need a new one. That is good news. It scared me when the housing opening was different from opening on the head. So if this is correct then I will continue with the assembly. I attempted to look up the torque settings for the thermostat housing bolts but couldn’t find them. I will look in XWeb wiki. Maybe it is there.
I will post more frustrations later...lol

So, tomorrow, clean the block and change out the one engine mount I couldn’t get to earlier. Attach the head and torque down properly, clean the valve cover, replace the cam seal and install the valve box and cover. Then on to the rebuilt distributor set the timing.
Finally, on to the the radiator, AC.
Can’t wait to have all this done.
Mike

 

[Jefco]

install the valve box and cover

Check valve clearances before cover!

 

[Dan Sarandrea (Phila)]

If the head is not warped and you have not found any defects in the head gasket, why were you getting coolant in the oil? You need to find the answer to this question before you put it back together.

 

[Tavalin]

If the head is not warped and you have not found any defects in the head gasket, why were you getting coolant in the oil? You need to find the answer to this question before you put it back together.

Dan,
Looked like the gasket blew in one spot. When the timing was dorked up and the X backfired a couple of times. That is when things started happening. The X1/9 would start run great for a about a minute then over heat and loose power.
Anyway, it seems I needed to do this because of all the neglect from previous. So, this is a good thing I am doing all of this.
Mike

 

[lookforjoe]

I started back up the project and had the head looked at by a couple of gentlemen that rebuild classic engines. They do beautiful work. They looked at the head and said it was not warped but wanted to rebuild it. I said thank you and went home.
Now that has been done, I went to mount the thermostat housing back to the head with a new gasket. The gasket works for the head but the thermostat housing is different. It seems to be the one for the EGR type. Do I need to replace the thermostat housing? Is the one pictured below incorrect?
Pictures of the thermostat housing and the head.
Please, help...
Mike
View attachment 27798 View attachment 27799 View attachment 27800 View attachment 27801

Good news. When you say they 'looked at it" do you mean that literally, or that they checked it with the approriate straight edge for true ?

You are planning on doing the vale seals yourself at this point? You really, really don't want to skip out on doing that at this stage, no matter if they 'look' good or not. A Valve spring compressor will be required, as mentioned earlier.

Small thing, but it's easier to 'read' your pics if you rotate them on your phone before uploading them