Definitely has a long way to go but mechanically it's getting there!It's looking great, they always love to run, keeps them in fine form!
They did not used to be so expensive at one time, but it seems that has changed. No idea why really. Typically I would not utilize used parts for replacement fuel system components. But this might be one exception. So long as the used cold start injector doesn't leak (like your old one does) then a used one will be fine...they do very little for a very brief time.I can't for the life of me work out why these cold start injectors are so expensive!
Be aware that the manual specs oil no thinner than 10-30; thinner oils were not used when these cars were made, parts tolerances were wider then; your oil pressure may suffer.I'll likely end up using 5w50
If that doesn't work I would check the alternator brushes, when they start to wear out you can get this type of fault.The ‘75 was running great all weekend. Started today and charge light came on, then off…then on. I’m guessing it’s the regulator since I had the same issue on my ‘71 124 spider. I think it’s the original points regulator so I just ordered an electronic one from MWB. View attachment 56438
They did not used to be so expensive at one time, but it seems that has changed. No idea why really. Typically I would not utilize used parts for replacement fuel system components. But this might be one exception. So long as the used cold start injector doesn't leak (like your old one does) then a used one will be fine...they do very little for a very brief time.
Look for a VW from the 80s, 90s. Many of them had the same fuel hose fitting and mounting base.I don't understand why either. Of all of the injectors, it requires the least consistency and precision. It's literally just held open by a simple circuit during startup. Whatever.
I guess I'll start looking around for LJet cars in scrap yards. If I find a cheap but consistent source I'll be sure to share. Something in the 1.3-2.5L range will likely do. Switching to the Volvo style seems to open up a lot of options as Joe says, so that may end up being the ticket if I don't find a direct swap.
How about removing the original one and sending it to an injector cleaning service?Look for a VW from the 80s, 90s. Many of them had the same fuel hose fitting and mounting base.
Possibly, but usually they leak externally or a part of the plastic breaks after years of getting brittle. So it depends what's wrong with it.How about removing the original one and sending it to an injector cleaning service?
The main problem seems to be that the plastic solenoid body comes loose from the metal part. It's crimped on originally but years of vibration and heat cycles seem to do it in.How about removing the original one and sending it to an injector cleaning service?
Exactly. Does yours work at all?The main problem seems to be that the plastic solenoid body comes loose from the metal part. It's crimped on originally but years of vibration and heat cycles seem to do it in.
You might want to install a Time Sert to repair the ruined threads. Time Fasteners, Reno, Nevada.Used the Christmas-New Year break to replace my new water pump assembly to the engine block. After checking impeller to housing tolerances. Used available gaskets + some JB Weld red that was on hand. Bolted black hi temp sprayed pipe. Chuffed at a job well done. CLR cleaned alternator bracket and clear lacquered. Went to bolt bracket on pump with cleaned bolts. Yikes no threads !
View attachment 56460 Not to be daunted asked and was told 8mm 1.25 thread would do the trick. A little WD 40, a small chuck and slowly back/forward cleaning tap and blowing hole clean. Had not had to tap a thread for a while. Just to be sure some Loctite 565 thread sealant to make sure bolts stayed in. New alternator bottom bolt proved trickier and frustrating. Nylox nut at front end being captive helps.
1982 X 1/9
The solenoid itself works excellently. So well, that I had to unplug it to stop it from dripping fuel inside the engine bay during cold starts.Exactly. Does yours work at all?
From that description I do not believe sending it out for cleaning will help. Sounds like the injector body is broken, with no decent repair possibilities. I'd look for a good replacement.The solenoid itself works excellently. So well, that I had to unplug it to stop it from dripping fuel inside the engine bay during cold starts.
This seems to tell me that the needle and seat are (thankfully) a part of the same housing. It appears that fuel is not spraying where it is supposed to (or maybe the spray pattern is so bad it's entirely non-effective in a cold engine manifold) because the whole reason I checked on it in the first place was long cold starts.
It actually broke free of the housing a long time ago, so I glued it. It was still working fine at that point but it's since gotten so bad it's given up.
I'm sure it could probably be fixed, to be honest.
LED lamp to replace the dome light. Except for headlights I am fully LED.