What did you do to your X1/9 today ?

Some of the pics in this thread should help:

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Hope that helps.
Fantastical, thank you much! This car is ALL messed up. Fuel filter and pump brackets are missing, hoses running everywhere with no form of management. Surprised it didn't burn down. I keep a fire extinguisher for a reason.

I should have looked harder! I appreciate you digging it up for me. I'll use that to make it correct!
 
Fantastical, thank you much! This car is ALL messed up. Fuel filter and pump brackets are missing, hoses running everywhere with no form of management. Surprised it didn't burn down. I keep a fire extinguisher for a reason.

I should have looked harder! I appreciate you digging it up for me. I'll use that to make it correct!
No problem. There may be some images in the Bertone manual which may help as well. You can download a copy of that over at MiraFiori.com or use the Wiki version.

It’s not that the information isn’t here, its finding it…

BOX, Wiki and now the alternative search engine can help. For the most part it would be rare for someone here to say “use the search“
 
FYI the gauge has a peculiarity to it. It doesn’t really tell you what is happening in the system of the battery and the alternator accurately. What it shows is the relative voltage from the ignition switch and its loads which are as you state rather variable. Being a rather sensitive device and certain nearby loads being notable it tends to overstate the overall reality of certain loads.

This is where reducing the reliance on the now quite old and likely high resistance contacts in the ignition switch is worthwhile. Moving to three relays, two for the primary switched circuits used in the ‘run’ position and one for the start position with a larger supply wire to two of them makes a lot of sense, the third will also gain a significant supply increase due to being fed from the starter main feed. I presume this is what you were referring to in your “power draw” comment above.

I like the LEDs you found for the running and brake light, its light dispersion is somewhat unique and as you noted works well with the lensing. Where did you pick up the 7506R bulbs?

Thanks!

Thanks for the confirmation on the behavior of the voltage gauge. I assumed it to be correct until I noticed that the turn signals drag the gauge down significantly yet the hazards do not, indicating that it's a poor representation of actual battery voltage- but that was just an assumption on my behalf.


As far as the 7506 bulbs:

My goal when trying to find the best LED tail light bulb was to use one that's easily available at local stores.

I somewhat succeeded.

The 7506R, (the suffix indicates a color, R for red, A for Amber) can be found at local parts stores, but they seem to be in low demand and supply. They will likely have to order them, but they're most definitely available.

I have not tried the amber yet, and based on the reflector design of the rear turn signals, I do not think the two diode type will work very well. Thankfully they make ones that have many LEDs in a cylindrical shape that will act more "incandescent" and produce a good beam.

Edit 12/13/21: I have now added all of the above info regarding taillights, and more, to the Wiki! Feel free to edit and add whatever you'd like if you learn anything else about the subject, especially alternate part numbers as bulb part numbers are an absolute tangle of compatible and equivalent parts.
 
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This is the main reason to go out of your way to find a western X. I found this car in Nevada, it had been sitting outside for more than a decade. Nearly every piece of rubber crumbled in my hands. However all that was corrected with 30 min on ebay. The pic is what the floor looked like today after I scraped out all the hardened sound deadening in the foot wells. Freak'n crazy clean, and most importantly NO RUST.
IMG_1871.jpg
 
This is the main reason to go out of your way to find a western X. I found this car in Nevada, it had been sitting outside for more than a decade. Nearly every piece of rubber crumbled in my hands. However all that was corrected with 30 min on ebay. The pic is what the floor looked like today after I scraped out all the hardened sound deadening in the foot wells. Freak'n crazy clean, and most importantly NO RUST.
View attachment 55916
Although when a car sits out in the desert sun too long the paint breaks down and surface rust forms on the outer surfaces. Mainly on the flat (horizontal) panels, but elsewhere as well. And while that isn't as damaging as cancerous rust in other areas, it is a lot of work to properly correct. Because like any rust it will come back through your new paint job, even if you sand it off. Rust has a way of living 'dormant' then coming back to life like a zombie. And having it over 60-70% of the car's exterior panels is a LOT to deal with. Plus being in the desert does not always mean no rust in the floors, rockers, etc. As you found all of the weather seals will deteriorate. And although it doesn't rain often, when it does it rains hard and all of that water goes directly into the inner cavities. Often owners of older cars here do not keep them protected from rain so it is not uncommon to find rusty floor pans, door bottoms, etc. Not to mention having EVERY soft material throughout the entire vehicle completely destroyed by the sun (not just the rubber seals). Take a close look at things like wire harnesses; you may find dried out insulation that has cracked, fallen off, and exposed the wires. And usually plan on replacing the ENTIRE interior, all the way to the bare metal surfaces. Engine seals, hoses, and other materials will be shot. And so on. Desert cars have their own set of problems that rivals rust belt cars in many ways.
 
Although when a car sits out in the desert sun too long the paint breaks down and surface rust forms on the outer surfaces. Mainly on the flat (horizontal) panels, but elsewhere as well. And while that isn't as damaging as cancerous rust in other areas, it is a lot of work to properly correct. Because like any rust it will come back through your new paint job, even if you sand it off. Rust has a way of living 'dormant' then coming back to life like a zombie. And having it over 60-70% of the car's exterior panels is a LOT to deal with. Plus being in the desert does not always mean no rust in the floors, rockers, etc. As you found all of the weather seals will deteriorate. And although it doesn't rain often, when it does it rains hard and all of that water goes directly into the inner cavities. Often owners of older cars here do not keep them protected from rain so it is not uncommon to find rusty floor pans, door bottoms, etc. Not to mention having EVERY soft material throughout the entire vehicle completely destroyed by the sun (not just the rubber seals). Take a close look at things like wire harnesses; you may find dried out insulation that has cracked, fallen off, and exposed the wires. And usually plan on replacing the ENTIRE interior, all the way to the bare metal surfaces. Engine seals, hoses, and other materials will be shot. And so on. Desert cars have their own set of problems that rivals rust belt cars in many ways.
Like mine that came from Carson City Nevada!
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Like mine that came from Carson City Nevada!View attachment 55933View attachment 55934
I have repaired both the toasted and the wet cancer variety of rust. I will HAPPILY take a sun-baked over a wet cancer any day. I will go as far as saying twincam69 would rather deal with what he has on that coupe, rather than having wet cancer over the same area...
My original point is that for someone who is not body-mod proficient, it is much easier and likely cheaper to deal with a near no rust car (to include fetching/shipping) than fixing one that is a panel-off, floor-pan rebuild. Go west...
Just say'n.
 
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The most wanted imported classic US cars in Sweden are from Nevada. They are usually rust free and relative easy to restore. Some people like the "patina" created by the sun so they leave the body shell as is, they just put a heavy layer of vax or WD-40 on it. The Rat Rod culture is not very big here, but the sun fade look on old American cars is popular.
 
"Sun Rust" is certainly a different animal than cancer. I was doing a brand X gasser about 15 years ago that was a desert car. The 1/4 panel shown was uniformly covered in sun rust. The center of the panel was wiped down with CLR and most was gone showing the original paint underneath. Sanding the panel with a DA and coating with 2K primer will buy you 5-8 years under normal conditions (meaning garage kept) before signs of rust start impacting your paint. However, Dr. Jeff is correct; rust never sleeps and whatever the variety, if you want a proper base for paint the panels need to be media blasted or dipped. No amount of sanding or wire wheeling will work. The upside is after blasting, sun rust panels will be clean while cancer rust will will leave you with a panel that looks like Swiss cheese.

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I certainly wasn't disagreeing that a non-cancer body is better than a surface rusted one. I only wanted to make the statement that a "desert" car is not a rust free one and it has its own challenges, requiring a lot of work as well. And I have found a number of Nevada and Calif cars with lots of cancer rust, so where you buy it certainly does not guarantee it to be rust free. :)
 
HI today worked on engine cover and hinges , took cover apart to clean it good and get the old under coating out .
 

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Finally got the injector cooling fan working again...and what a difference it makes- no more two cylinder hot starts.I wanted to fix it before I install the new injectors and lines that came in today...but that'll be on the back burner for a while, since the 500 Abarth is in approximately 100,000 pieces
 
Just had to start the little car and let run a bit today. Currently in storage waiting for better spring weather to enjoy it again.
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happy to say it fired right up. Can’t wait for spring. Happy holidays everyone!
 
Took it for a flat out backroads drive to put the tires to good use! Always seems to run better after an Italian tune up.

Can't do much to the Abarth because I'm waiting on parts, so I guess I'm just gonna enjoy the X, maybe install the injectors and gaskets?


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