What did you do to your X1/9 today ?
- Thread starter Eastep
- Start date
Jonohhh
True Classic
Definitely has a long way to go but mechanically it's getting there!
Jonohhh
True Classic
Had to unplug the cold start injector because it appears that the injector body and solenoid itself are going through a break up...which causes it to drip fuel from the housing during actuation.
I can't for the life of me work out why these cold start injectors are so expensive! I was hoping it was just the X1/9 ones that are so expensive, because I was hoping to just get a cheaper one from a similarly sized engine car... But it appears they are all ludicrously expensive for some reason, despite metering and accuracy mattering much less on these than on the port fuel injectors.
Otherwise, not much done. I did do an oil change, and switched to 10w40 from 10w30 (I just grabbed some oil when first starting it after sitting for two years, to change at a short interval after the rust and all that has collected has fallen into the oil).
I'll likely end up using 5w50, but I just wanted to get that old oil out. It only had about 800 mi on it, but a little over a year, so it was time for a change.
I can't for the life of me work out why these cold start injectors are so expensive! I was hoping it was just the X1/9 ones that are so expensive, because I was hoping to just get a cheaper one from a similarly sized engine car... But it appears they are all ludicrously expensive for some reason, despite metering and accuracy mattering much less on these than on the port fuel injectors.
Otherwise, not much done. I did do an oil change, and switched to 10w40 from 10w30 (I just grabbed some oil when first starting it after sitting for two years, to change at a short interval after the rust and all that has collected has fallen into the oil).
I'll likely end up using 5w50, but I just wanted to get that old oil out. It only had about 800 mi on it, but a little over a year, so it was time for a change.
Dr.Jeff
True Classic
They did not used to be so expensive at one time, but it seems that has changed. No idea why really. Typically I would not utilize used parts for replacement fuel system components. But this might be one exception. So long as the used cold start injector doesn't leak (like your old one does) then a used one will be fine...they do very little for a very brief time.
Jefco
daily driven if I drive daily
Be aware that the manual specs oil no thinner than 10-30; thinner oils were not used when these cars were made, parts tolerances were wider then; your oil pressure may suffer.
Schmenge
Canada West Coast
If that doesn't work I would check the alternator brushes, when they start to wear out you can get this type of fault.
Jonohhh
True Classic
I don't understand why either. Of all of the injectors, it requires the least consistency and precision. It's literally just held open by a simple circuit during startup. Whatever.
I guess I'll start looking around for LJet cars in scrap yards. If I find a cheap but consistent source I'll be sure to share. Something in the 1.3-2.5L range will likely do. Switching to the Volvo style seems to open up a lot of options as Joe says, so that may end up being the ticket if I don't find a direct swap.
Dr.Jeff
True Classic
Look for a VW from the 80s, 90s. Many of them had the same fuel hose fitting and mounting base.
johnph
True Classic
How about removing the original one and sending it to an injector cleaning service?
Dr.Jeff
True Classic
Possibly, but usually they leak externally or a part of the plastic breaks after years of getting brittle. So it depends what's wrong with it.
Used the Christmas-New Year break to replace my new water pump assembly to the engine block. After checking impeller to housing tolerances. Used available gaskets + some JB Weld red that was on hand. Bolted black hi temp sprayed pipe. Chuffed at a job well done. CLR cleaned alternator bracket and clear lacquered. Went to bolt bracket on pump with cleaned bolts. Yikes no threads !
Not to be daunted asked and was told 8mm 1.25 thread would do the trick. A little WD 40, a small chuck and slowly back/forward cleaning tap and blowing hole clean. Had not had to tap a thread for a while. Just to be sure some Loctite 565 thread sealant to make sure bolts stayed in. New alternator bottom bolt proved trickier and frustrating. Nylox nut at front end being captive helps.
1982 X 1/9
Not to be daunted asked and was told 8mm 1.25 thread would do the trick. A little WD 40, a small chuck and slowly back/forward cleaning tap and blowing hole clean. Had not had to tap a thread for a while. Just to be sure some Loctite 565 thread sealant to make sure bolts stayed in. New alternator bottom bolt proved trickier and frustrating. Nylox nut at front end being captive helps.1982 X 1/9
Jonohhh
True Classic
The main problem seems to be that the plastic solenoid body comes loose from the metal part. It's crimped on originally but years of vibration and heat cycles seem to do it in.
Dr.Jeff
True Classic
Exactly. Does yours work at all?
johnph
True Classic
You might want to install a Time Sert to repair the ruined threads. Time Fasteners, Reno, Nevada.
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Jonohhh
True Classic
The solenoid itself works excellently. So well, that I had to unplug it to stop it from dripping fuel inside the engine bay during cold starts.
This seems to tell me that the needle and seat are (thankfully) a part of the same housing. It appears that fuel is not spraying where it is supposed to (or maybe the spray pattern is so bad it's entirely non-effective in a cold engine manifold) because the whole reason I checked on it in the first place was long cold starts.
It actually broke free of the housing a long time ago, so I glued it. It was still working fine at that point but it's since gotten so bad it's given up.
I'm sure it could probably be fixed, to be honest.
Dr.Jeff
True Classic
From that description I do not believe sending it out for cleaning will help. Sounds like the injector body is broken, with no decent repair possibilities. I'd look for a good replacement.
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I used the 36mm, I had to use a bit of foam tape to take up the gap between the metal clip and the bulb. Polarity has to be correct. Works fine. I tried the other one mentioned and the circumference is too large to fit the clip.