This might be a time saver. If you don't worry about trying to "open" the tack welds, but just drill right through them and the floor with a regular bit, then use rivets the same size as the holes you drilled. Much less hassle. Maybe use stainless steel rivets if possible. The modern two-part panel adhesives are extremely strong, and available in various "setting rates" to allow enough time to reassemble it. However you'll never get it open again in the future, so be sure to do the pipe job right the first time.I put mine back on with pop rivets and panel epoxy, avoiding the heat issues.
I think he is referring to "Clico fasteners".click-it panel holders
https://www.amazon.com/Cleco-Fasten...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=R630D2AV3788E57B4DN2Paul I was thinking of Fusor and rivits also. What kind of click-it panel holders?
I can't visualize how a panel holder would mount flat to flat surfaces.
I think he is referring to "Clico fasteners".
Today I was able to remove the hoses at the heater box.
Hmm I wonder which pipe could have been suspect?
View attachment 7771
Seems like the bracket and pipe might have had a bit of galvanic corrosion going on here too (?) as the rust started right at the bracket.
Then I cut the bracket and the end of the pipe off.
View attachment 7772
Will likely cut off more of the rusty pipe but wanted to get a new hose first to make sure I had plenty of room to double clamp it as the flange is now gone.
Dimension drawing for the 2nd Heater pipe (which will go into the tunnel box just above the 1st and an inch shorter horizontally and vertically at the front) sent to Brown & Miller to program in.