1976 Scorpion; Gold

The vacuum takeoff on the manifold, with my cams, provides almost no vacuum, so I'm looking at a separate vacuum pump for the hvac unit.

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From what I have read, there needs to be at least 3/4 inch clearance above the airhorn in the air filters, so that is probably the reason they are not on the carbs. I also wonder if that is why your car has so much induction "roar". My other Scorpion has dual 40 DCOE's with small airhorns with mesh filters and it is loud but not too loud. I'll know more as I put this all together.
I was test driving it with no filters at all so I could peek around the carbs to see if there were any leaks from the new fuel hoses.
 
Look up "brake booster vacuum pump", many show up for under $70, you'll also need a vac switch to activate it.
 
You might want to test the hvac controls before spending the money for a pump, those panels were from a Dodge Aspen, and were crappy when new.
 
Mira is like maybe 10th grade
Xweb is like 4th grade.

As I recall the Miata forum was like 12th grade nerds only interested in electronics.

The BMW 2002 forum was the adults in the room.
 
More research on vacuum pumps. Probably a good idea to even out the brake boost response on the Scorpion. The feedback control loop keeps vacuum constant to ensure even braking feel at all times. They probably should have used this back then but the technology was not developed. Seems most cars these days have them, for example, any that shut the engine off unexpectedly.

The Jegs unit in post #81 is NOT a demand pump, but this one from Leed is. The pump assembly contains the vacuum sensor for the feedback loop and one-way valve to the booster and accessory vacuum chamber. It is a little on the big side, but there is plenty of room in the engine compartment on the driver's side.

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Something else I wish I had 30 years ago. Hub stands. With only a single jack point on each side of the car, lifting all 4 wheels has always been a challenge. I already in the 1980s had to pound out the dents in the floor boards from some clown lifting the car from the footwells.

This will let me get all 4 wheels off to go to the wheel restoration shop. I made the mistake on my 308 sending only 2 wheels at a time and they came back slightly different colors.

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Going through that effort would do an adjustable bias control.


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Something else I wish I had 30 years ago. Hub stands. With only a single jack point on each side of the car, lifting all 4 wheels has always been a challenge. I already in the 1980s had to pound out the dents in the floor boards from some clown lifting the car from the footwells.

This will let me get all 4 wheels off to go to the wheel restoration shop. I made the mistake on my 308 sending only 2 wheels at a time and they came back slightly different colors.
Fabricate a rally pin stand system

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Schematic of the brake power booster like on my car. Works a little different from the usual brake booster connected to the master cylinder in most cars. On my car it is connected to only the front brakes and is remote from the brake master cylinder. With equal master cylinder piston sizes, equal caliper piston sizes and equal disk sizes front and rear, the booster on my car gives near perfect braking bias.
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I'm planning on putting the vacuum pump in place of the carbon canister. Power is close, there is an 8A circuit for an emission diverter valve that was in the area.

Thing is, the pump I want to use is 12A, so I'll only power the pump's relay from the 8A circuit (relay draws 0.7A) and power the pump itself from the battery connection on the starter solenoid (+).
 
Still looking around, but presently this one is at the top of the list. It uses two power wires like I need and has adjustable vacuum. In essence the adjustable vacuum will be like an adjustable brake bias for the front.

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Vacuum pump mounting mockup. Changing a mounting hole location on the pump's bracket should allow it to mount in the engine compartment on existing studs.

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