Hasbro
True Classic
Homegrown, what coilovers are you using?
Here is another k20 swap.
- Thread starter homegrown32
- Start date
Homegrown, what coilovers are you using?
homegrown32
True Classic
They are the ones from Vick's. With 225# and 275# it drives and handles very nice.
homegrown32
True Classic
I've made some more progress on the dashboard.
I'm going to cover it with the top being black and the bottom being the tan color of the seats. Along with the center tan.
I still need to modify and mount the heater controls. I think that's going to be really easy or really hard nowhere in between. I don't quite have a plan there yet but I'm using the metal controls out of a 128.
The only other thing I plan on adding is two more round vents for the fresh air. And a Bertone logo in front of the passenger.
I'm going to cover it with the top being black and the bottom being the tan color of the seats. Along with the center tan.
I still need to modify and mount the heater controls. I think that's going to be really easy or really hard nowhere in between. I don't quite have a plan there yet but I'm using the metal controls out of a 128.
The only other thing I plan on adding is two more round vents for the fresh air. And a Bertone logo in front of the passenger.
homegrown32
True Classic
Does anybody know where I can get a badge like this?
The one I have is broken.
The one I have is broken.
lookforjoe
True Classic
That has come out really nicely - very clean lines. The additional Dash vents will be on either end, as on original?
That nicely formed console must have been fun to cut for the gauges/switches/controls! I like that the lower section over the shifter/tunnel is a separate piece - no need to pull the console if the shifter needs attention, I presume?
I'd love to see how you addressed the attachment points - did you integrate tangs that locate in the stock bulkhead mounts? How is the vertical supported underneath? Once you cover it, how will you resolve the upper/lower attachment screws along the facing edge?
Very impressive. I also love the low budget metal brake - I have a length of an old stair bannister rail that someone was discarding on one of our bulk pickup days - now I know why I saved it
That nicely formed console must have been fun to cut for the gauges/switches/controls! I like that the lower section over the shifter/tunnel is a separate piece - no need to pull the console if the shifter needs attention, I presume?
I'd love to see how you addressed the attachment points - did you integrate tangs that locate in the stock bulkhead mounts? How is the vertical supported underneath? Once you cover it, how will you resolve the upper/lower attachment screws along the facing edge?
Very impressive. I also love the low budget metal brake - I have a length of an old stair bannister rail that someone was discarding on one of our bulk pickup days - now I know why I saved it
JDExSquid
Dodge 2.2TII Swap
I have this one on my shelf without a home. I reinforced one of the pins with superglue. It’s yours if you can use it.
Attachments
homegrown32
True Classic
I am almost finished and figured more pictures would answer most questions.
The final mounting on some of the parts t will do after upholstery. The additional thickness moves where the holes are needed. The parts for nice and tight so limited fasteners are needed. But they will be in similar locations my originals were.
The final mounting on some of the parts t will do after upholstery. The additional thickness moves where the holes are needed. The parts for nice and tight so limited fasteners are needed. But they will be in similar locations my originals were.
homegrown32
True Classic
kmead
Old enough to know better
It could be a drop down from underneath the right side like the early X IP glove box. Just bigger.
homegrown32
True Classic
How would that work around the fuse box, and the funky dropping that it does?
homegrown32
True Classic
Starting to wrap up the interior.
If anyone is looking at what type of adhesive to use for interior I used Dap landau top & trim hhr contact adhesive. It works very good! I have used many other types including 77, 90, Dap contact cement (the original) plus others, most with good success. But the landau top stuff is just better. It is the stuff upholsterers use.
If anyone is looking at what type of adhesive to use for interior I used Dap landau top & trim hhr contact adhesive. It works very good! I have used many other types including 77, 90, Dap contact cement (the original) plus others, most with good success. But the landau top stuff is just better. It is the stuff upholsterers use.
motoTrooper
True Classic
Really nice work all around. The styling of the front end reminds me of the NART Ferrari Daytona.
Dr.Jeff
True Classic
Looks great. I really like the carpet on the rear wall - might have to steal that idea.
Agreed about Dap Landau Top & Trim HHR. As you say that's what the pros use. Did you spray it from a gun or brush it on? I like the even thin coat that spraying gives, but the clean up is a pain.
Agreed about Dap Landau Top & Trim HHR. As you say that's what the pros use. Did you spray it from a gun or brush it on? I like the even thin coat that spraying gives, but the clean up is a pain.
homegrown32
True Classic
I sprayed and brushed it on. I had an old paint gun that wasn't spraying nice for me and I planned on using it as a primer gun. But I was able to turn it way down and still spray this directly from the can.
Some spots I couldn't mask or get a good angle with the gun I used a paint brush. I was told to just let the brush harden up between uses, and not worrying about it. You are painting on glue it doesn't need to be perfect.
I have not had to clean up over spray yet. Do you have any suggestions?
Some spots I couldn't mask or get a good angle with the gun I used a paint brush. I was told to just let the brush harden up between uses, and not worrying about it. You are painting on glue it doesn't need to be perfect.
I have not had to clean up over spray yet. Do you have any suggestions?
Dr.Jeff
True Classic
The clean up I was referring to is the spray gun. I find cleaning guns after painting to be no fun, and after using glue is just as bad. I also use a old cheap gun that's not good for painting, but it still has to be cleaned. As you said, a cheap brush can just be thrown away (I get those "chip brushes" by the box really cheap). But spraying seems to give a better coat.
You were able to spray the glue without reducing? Unfortunately where I live the climate has zero humidity and very high temps, so everything drys out and thickens instantly. Therefore I need to thin the glue to use it.
Some people say they just leave the glue in the gun and it is still good the next time they need it. Perhaps if you use the gun every day like a upholstery shop then that might work. But especially in my climate it will turn into a solid rock in a day.
According to the DAP tech sheet (see link) clean up is done with mineral spirits. So that's what I've used. But honestly it is a lot of work. According to many guys online toluene works MUCH better. Maybe that's why I hate clean up so much, I've been using the wrong solvent? Perhaps I should try toluene next time.
You were able to spray the glue without reducing? Unfortunately where I live the climate has zero humidity and very high temps, so everything drys out and thickens instantly. Therefore I need to thin the glue to use it.
Some people say they just leave the glue in the gun and it is still good the next time they need it. Perhaps if you use the gun every day like a upholstery shop then that might work. But especially in my climate it will turn into a solid rock in a day.
According to the DAP tech sheet (see link) clean up is done with mineral spirits. So that's what I've used. But honestly it is a lot of work. According to many guys online toluene works MUCH better. Maybe that's why I hate clean up so much, I've been using the wrong solvent? Perhaps I should try toluene next time.
motoTrooper
True Classic
Toluene is much more volatile if I remember, more like acetone. I just rebuilt the automatic transmission for my truck and was recommended to use mineral spirits to clean parts. Slow going with that stuff.
homegrown32
True Classic
actually I think xylene would be a better solvent for cleaning. Xylene is an adhesive solvent.
Adhesive removers are typically made out of a mixture of solvents like xylene, naptha, tolulene and benzene.
I believe Manufacturers need to be very careful about what they recommend as solvents due to VOC regulations. VOC regulations change around the country so not everyone has access to the same solvents.
As for cleaning the gun. I use a 3M PPS cup. This is a disposable liner. The rest of the gun I really don't mind cleaning that much. But I kind of like taking finicky things apart and fiddling with them. And I'm not out anything if I just have to throw the gun right straight in the garbage.
Adhesive removers are typically made out of a mixture of solvents like xylene, naptha, tolulene and benzene.
I believe Manufacturers need to be very careful about what they recommend as solvents due to VOC regulations. VOC regulations change around the country so not everyone has access to the same solvents.
As for cleaning the gun. I use a 3M PPS cup. This is a disposable liner. The rest of the gun I really don't mind cleaning that much. But I kind of like taking finicky things apart and fiddling with them. And I'm not out anything if I just have to throw the gun right straight in the garbage.
Dr.Jeff
True Classic
I recall xylene is what's used to thin or clean up those "PlastiDip" type coating materials.
Is the gun you used for this a gravity fed/top cup, or siphon feed/bottom cup? I think the PPS cup is a top mounted HVLP? Due to the viscosity of the glue a old style siphon (bottom cup) gun seems to work best.
I've seen cheap siphon guns available for less than $10. Almost cheap enough to do as you say - dump the whole gun in the trash when done. Especially if you only do upholstery work once or twice. I do the same thing when I do any ceramic coating. A little airbrush gun works best. And the ceramic material is very difficult to clean completely, plus if the gun isn't pristine then it will ruin the finish. And the ceramic material is rather expensive. So I get really cheap airbrush guns from Harbor Freight and just throw them away afterwards. Truck bed coatings and undercoatings are also a lot of work to clean up after.
Is the gun you used for this a gravity fed/top cup, or siphon feed/bottom cup? I think the PPS cup is a top mounted HVLP? Due to the viscosity of the glue a old style siphon (bottom cup) gun seems to work best.
I've seen cheap siphon guns available for less than $10. Almost cheap enough to do as you say - dump the whole gun in the trash when done. Especially if you only do upholstery work once or twice. I do the same thing when I do any ceramic coating. A little airbrush gun works best. And the ceramic material is very difficult to clean completely, plus if the gun isn't pristine then it will ruin the finish. And the ceramic material is rather expensive. So I get really cheap airbrush guns from Harbor Freight and just throw them away afterwards. Truck bed coatings and undercoatings are also a lot of work to clean up after.