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K20 project off to a good start, volume 2

Discussion in 'Workshop Forum' started by Rodger, Jul 11, 2017.

  1. Rodger

    Rodger True Classic

    Olympia, WA
    Well, I was pretty bummed when the Photobucket debacle happened as my entire K20 build thread is now pretty useless with no photos. It would take me forever to reload them all, but that is a project for another life. Anyway, I figured I would continue with my progress in a new thread.

    Once I got the AC lines completed, I decided I needed to the get the shift linkage in place first, before working on the plumbing. There is so much going on with the plumbing and electrical connections to the engine in such a tight space that I find I have think about it, play with different ideas and then build it layer by layer. The shift linkage is the first layer.

    I had modified the Honda shift cable connection points on the transmission to accept the 10-32 Heim joints that come on the shift cables with the MWB K20 swap kit. There are also extensions that needed to be added to the shift cable bracket on the transmission. These were welded on before I had them powdercoated. Shift linkage 07.JPG

    I then attached the other ends to the shifter mechanism that comes with the kit. It took a little bit of playing with the adjustment nuts to get the right length, but not a lot of time. Matt had this dialed in pretty nicely.
    Shift linkage 03.JPG

    I did find that the end of the passenger side tab was hitting where I had the AC line routed, so I moved it to the center of the tunnel and attached it to the throttle cable tube. This kept it as low as possible so it didn't interfere with the shifter motions.
    AC hose re-routed.JPG

    Here is what is going on in the tunnel under the parking brake handle.
    Shift linkage 06.JPG

    Here is the shifter bolted into position. All of the gears engage smoothly and with very short throws. Can't wait to drive it someday.
    Shift linkage 05.JPG
    darwoodious likes this.
  2. kmead

    kmead True Classic

    Grand Rapids, MI
    "Can't wait to drive it someday"

    That may well be the understatement of the year.

    Great progress. Can't wait to see more updates.

    Sorry about the PB issue it is distressing for us all.
  3. Rodger

    Rodger True Classic

    Olympia, WA
    With the shift linkage in place, the next layer I worked on was the fuel system. First was figuring out the best location for the fuel pump. Here is the stock location of the fuel pump on a fuel injected X1/9. I’d forgotten how filthy this car was when I was taking it apart.

    Here’s a picture of the mounting holes after the car was painted.
    Fuel pump mounting.jpg

    Anyway, there are two M6 threaded holes for attaching the mounting bracket for the fuel pump in this location that are not there on the earlier carb’ed cars, but I thought that would be the best place to try.

    Unfortunately, the stock bracket holds the pump out too far from the bulkhead and it interferes with the Honda transmission. So, I just got a piece of steel plate, drilled a couple of holes to match up with the holes on the car, and tapped a couple of other holes to line up with the brackets that hold the pump and threaded in some new rubber mounts so that I could still use the parts of the bracket that hold the pump body.
    Fuel system 01.JPG

    I cut off the excess threaded rod that protruded through the plate as the plate will be mounted flush to the car. Bolted the plate in place, then attached the pump with the brackets and the rubber cushion strip to the mounts, then connected the fuel lines to the tank. I used a low pressure fuel filter from MWB to catch any large debris before it gets to the pump since my gas tank had been acid cleaned and sealed, so the internal filter was no longer there.
    Fuel system 03.JPG
    Fuel system 04.JPG
    Fuel system 05.JPG

    I mounted the adjustable fuel pressure regulator that I got from Hybrid Racing to the inner fender just below where the ground post is. I went with this one as you can set it up to have a single feed line to a center port on the fuel rail. The return line to the gas tank comes off the bottom of the FPR. I also got their fuel filter and everything is connected with -6 AN connectors.
    Fuel system 06.JPG
    Fuel system 07.JPG
    Fuel system 08.JPG
    As I was laying out the lines, I had to keep making sure that nothing would interfere with the movement of the large counterweight that is on the shift lever. It pivots from left to right quite a bit as well as goes up and down.
  4. Rodger

    Rodger True Classic

    Olympia, WA
    The fuel pressure gauge can be attached to either the FPR or the fuel rail. I decided on the fuel rail, since if I mounted it on the FPR, it will eventually be hidden by the air filter once I get the throttle body mounted. When I was looking at fuel rails on the internet, I found a lot of photos of “tucked” motors that used the center feed line. That’s where I also got the idea to run the wires to the fuel injectors from below as I think it looks a lot cleaner.
    Fuel system 11.JPG

    I had a few extra feet of the braided hose so I used it to dress up the evaporative emission lines from the gas tank.
    Fuel system 10.JPG

    Here’s how it all looks from above.
    Fuel system 12.JPG

    The next installment will be on the cooling system plumbing.
  5. Ulix

    Ulix True Classic

    Stuttgart, Germany
    Hey Rodger,
    you are succeeding in something that I find quite hard.
    You are making major technical changes to your car, reengineering major components AND applying extreme attention to detail, paying attention to every little nut and bolt.
    I can usually only forcus on one of these two.

    Keep the pics coming!
    motoTrooper and kmead like this.
  6. Rodger

    Rodger True Classic

    Olympia, WA
    Thanks for the encouragement. Not sure I am really re-engineering things, just trying to marry a combination of things to come up with a solution that will hopefully work well together. I am a bit fussy about how it looks and I am really trying to avoid having it look like a patchwork of stuff just thrown together. Of course, I would have never attempted something like this with out the excellent swap kit from MWB and all of the ideas that I have gathered from the great contributors on this forum that take the time to share their knowledge with the group.
  7. kmead

    kmead True Classic

    Grand Rapids, MI
    Out of curiosity, what braided hose are you using? The stuff you have has a shiny look to it which suggests it will hold dirt less. Or are my eyes deceiving me?

    Really nice work as always. I am with Ulix, you are doing a great job of knitting together a clean and considered set of solutions that unifies into a car that looks like the factory put it together. Bravo!
  8. Rodger

    Rodger True Classic

    Olympia, WA
    I used Russell ProClassic II -6 AN hose from Summit Racing. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-632075. There are several brands available that look similar. It is a black nylon braided hose with internal braided stainless bonded into the liner. They say it can be used for fuel, oil, or antifreeze. The nylon does have a shiny, clean appearance that I really like. You can definitely see the difference if you compare it to the standard braided hose shown on the picture I posted of the underside connections to the fuel tank. I already had some of that larger standard braided hose on hand that I had bought from MWB a few years ago when I did my carb to FI conversion on my '79, so I just used that for the supply line from the tank to the fuel filter to the fuel pump, as it is not a pressurized line.

    When I bought the fuel rail from Hybrid Racing, I had also bought their tucked fuel line kit, that came with three pre-made -6 AN black braided hoses. Of course, it was intended for a swap into a Civic, or something like that, so the lengths weren't quite right for what I needed. The Russell hose looked to be a match for what they used, so I bought another 10 feet from Summit Racing along with a couple of fittings that I needed. I took apart the hoses I got from Hybrid Racing and used the fittings to make my own custom hose set. I used the pieces from the Hybrid set to make a lot of the evaporative system hoses. If you look at the above photo of the fuel pressure regulator before I connected the fuel lines to it, you can see the original rubber hoses that I had used to make the evaporative system. Once I had the fuel lines in and how nice they looked, I had to change the evaporative lines to match. Fortunately, I had just enough hose to make it. Total, I probably used about 16 feet of hose, with the 10 feet I bought and what came in the Hybrid kit.
    kmead likes this.
  9. kmead

    kmead True Classic

    Grand Rapids, MI
    Thank you. It was the contrast of the older fabric covered hose under the car versus your evaporative hoses that caused me to ask. Really nice material that looks great and should perform well beyond exactly what is needed.

    Thank you for taking the time.

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