K20 project off to a good start, volume 2

[Rupunzell]

Would highly recommend NOT using those embossed band hose clamps (typically made by Norma, Germany). While they have become the clamp in most EU brand cars today, they have not been proven to be a good long term hose clamp.

These Norma hose clamps are banned from shop inventory and are replaced any time a stock hose is replaced.

Suggest using Breeze or similar brand stainless steel liner band hose clamps with the stainless steel worm or plated steel worm. For either hose clamps apply anti-sieze to the band and worm as this will significantly reduce friction, produced higher band clamping force for any given torque on the worm. Liner clamps must be used with silicon hose, if not hose damage will occur. These Norma clamps are not true smooth band clamps and will emboss the silicon hose to some degree.

http://www.hoseclampkings.com/cat-28-1-92/410-ss-screw.htm

Constant tension clamps would be the upgrade:
http://www.hoseclampkings.com/cat-17-1-18/constant-tension-clamps.htm



Bernice

Here's one final picture of the engine bay with the cooling system in place.

 

[Rodger]

Would highly recommend NOT using those embossed band hose clamps (typically made by Norma, Germany). While they have become the clamp in most EU brand cars today, they have not been proven to be a good long term hose clamp.

These Norma hose clamps are banned from shop inventory and are replaced any time a stock hose is replaced.

Suggest using Breeze or similar brand stainless steel liner band hose clamps with the stainless steel worm or plated steel worm. For either hose clamps apply anti-sieze to the band and worm as this will significantly reduce friction, produced higher band clamping force for any given torque on the worm. Liner clamps must be used with silicon hose, if not hose damage will occur. These Norma clamps are not true smooth band clamps and will emboss the silicon hose to some degree.

http://www.hoseclampkings.com/cat-28-1-92/410-ss-screw.htm

Constant tension clamps would be the upgrade:
http://www.hoseclampkings.com/cat-17-1-18/constant-tension-clamps.htm



Bernice

Thanks as always for your input. I would have had no idea about the hose clamps. Your knowledge about everything related to automotive (and coffee ) never ceases to amaze me. Thanks for the links to a quality vendor. Guess it's time to go shopping again! So speaking of hose clamps, you mention the constant tension clamps. What do you think of the ones that were stock on the K20?

I thought I read somewhere that the purpose of that spring style clamp is that they maintain a constant tension on the hose. I also realize that automakers must love them as they go on fast.

 

[lookforjoe]

I used Oetiker clamps for some hoses that are awkward to get at (and unlikely to be removed in routine service), esp all the smaller OD (under 1.5" OD) ones where a traditional clamp worm drive base can cause that indent that Bernice noted. Honestly, I've not had issues with Norma style clamps over 50-100K mile intervals, I used them extensively on my Volvo - on all the larger intercooler & inlet silicone plumbing. I find the "T-bolt" style clamp ungainly & awkward, esp in tight spaces.

 

[Rodger]

Got the pipe back from the shop and repainted it. Looks way better. Don't know what I was thinking before.

 

[darwoodious]

Nice. Will work way better too.

 

[Rodger]

I finally got back to this project. I reinstalled the welded coolant pipe and changed the hose clamps for the silicone hoses for the lined clamps per Bernice's advice. Here's the connection from the coolant pipe coming under the intake manifold to the thermostat.

Here is my final version of the rat's nest with the connection from the outlet from the cylinder head coming under the intake manifold, going past the thermostat to connect to the underbody pipe to the radiator.

The view from above to show where that hose comes from.

Here is the tap off of the cylinder head that I am using for the supply for my heater, instead of the stock outlet next to the exhaust manifold.

Hose connected and running down past the fuel pump.

Then across the bottom of the engine to the underbody pipe.

That completes my iteration of the cooling system.

 

[kmead]

Your fastidious nature and work ethic is definitely paying off here. The quality of the work will pay off in a reliable and serviceable vehicle. I hope you took good notes of what each hose is and where it came from, that is a bunch of hoses. Wow.

So, the HVAC system is complete, the cooling system is complete, what comes next? There must be a plan.

 

[Rodger]

Hmmm, a plan? Not really. Just trying to find time to chip away at this project. I worked on finishing the wiring harness run into the trunk to the ECU. I added a new hole in the rear firewall to run the additional wiring from the car to the ECU and for the ECU to O2 sensor cable.

On the RSX, the harness goes through the firewall via a two piece plastic grommet.

The harness goes through that and a rubber boot clips on to it to provide water resistance. I cut a hole in the access panel to fit the grommet, then ran the harness to the ECU.

Next up is to fabricate the intake tube to mount the throttle body to the intake manifold. Then on to the exhaust.

 

[JDExSquid]

Does the blue cap on the expansion tank act like a typical 16 lb radiator cap or is there a remote filler with its own cap?

 

[Rodger]

Does the blue cap on the expansion tank act like a typical 16 lb radiator cap or is there a remote filler with its own cap?

Like a typical radiator cap. There is an overflow tube molded into the tank that comes off the well that the cap screws into.

The outlet can be seen in the well towards the bottom of the picture. The vent tube is the plastic extension below that.

 

[kmead]

They are VW parts, they work well, the one on my 18 year old Golf is like new. They can also be wired to give a low coolant warning which would be very nice on a car like this.

 

[Janis]

They are VW parts, they work well, the one on my 18 year old Golf is like new. They can also be wired to give a low coolant warning which would be very nice on a car like this.

Wanted to say same *about “low coolant, not Golf

 

[Rodger]

They are VW parts, they work well, the one on my 18 year old Golf is like new. They can also be wired to give a low coolant warning which would be very nice on a car like this.

I did notice that there is a connector on the tank. There are two wires that just go down into the coolant area. I assume that there must be a current that is applied to the terminals so that when the coolant level is over the wires, it registers a complete circuit. When it drops below the level of the wires, the circuit is broken and the indicator light comes on. I wonder what kind of circuitry is needed for this?

 

[Rodger]

I got my intake tube back from the welder today. MWB provides two end plates in their K20 swap kit, but you still have to make the tube.

I got a couple of mandrel bent 2.5" steel tubes off of eBay, one 45 degrees and one 25 degrees.

After a couple of hours with a hack saw, some duct tape, and super glue, I had my intake parts connected.

Here it is welded together. My welder friend wasn't too thrilled about the superglue as it created some nasty fumes as it burned off. Also, I had bought aluminized tubes. That just creates issues with the TIG welding as the aluminum layer tends to bubble. Best to use plain steel. Anyway, here it is ready to go to powder coating.

I tried it in to make sure that everything came out as I hoped. I was pretty pleased.

The air filter is a K&N cone filter for a snowmobile of all things. It has an angle to it that helps to fit the cone in the space better, plus allows a place to mount the air intake temperature sensor.

A couple of notes on the throttle body. The way it comes on the RSX is with two pulleys, one for the throttle and one for the cruise control. I found a couple of cool parts from a company called Karcepts. They make a pulley kit that deletes the cruise control pulley and also provides a nice bracket for the throttle cable. They also make a block off plate to eliminate the Idle Air Control Valve. They claim that the K20 engine runs fine without it. It cleans up the engine a bit and eliminates the need for the hose to run from this IACV to the intake manifold, along side the intake tube. Here is the cleaned up throttle body. I ended up painting it black for the final install.

For the throttle cable, I decided to reverse the way the cable would normally go. MWB provides what is basically a long brake cable for a tandem bicycle for the throttle cable. There is a round slug that goes into a hole on the throttle body pulley, then the cable goes through a sheath, through the tube in the tunnel to the gas pedal where the slack is taken up. With my Hurricane AC system installed, access to the connection on the gas pedal is severely restricted, so I put the slug end there and adapted a cable clamp to the pulley. That way, I can adjust it at the engine end. Much easier.

Here's how it looks in the tunnel at the gas pedal. I was able to retain the spring action so the pedal can go to the floor even though the throttle plate is fully open before then. I also shortened the shaft of the gas pedal per MWB recommendations because the Honda throttle body range is less than the Fiat one.

Next up is the exhaust.

 

[kmead]

Some possible clues to the way it may be done using a VW relay #42, PN 191919376A

Looking at the diagram, you should be able to just add an LED in the cluster and have the relay side of the unit control grounding of the led. The VW sensor apparently goes from 0-800ohms depending on the conductivity of the fluid it is immersed in. You could likely do some tests to verify.

Some links to ponder:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7102433#top
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=571522&postorder=desc

 

[tedb]

I did notice that there is a connector on the tank.

That connector was the source of the infamous VW coolant migration disaster. The pressurized tank would occasionally leak around the terminals and inject coolant into the wiring harness. Over time, coolant would wick throughout the harness, causing all sorts of faults. Something to keep in mind.

 

[kmead]

I have never heard of that one and being on the EmmKay4 forum for 19 years I have seen a few things...

Which doesn’t mean its not possible. I will look further into this. Thanks

 

[JDExSquid]

So does the hole for the coolant level plug open into the pressurized tank? Will I have to fill the hole with RTV or something to prevent loss of coolant?

 

[Rodger]

So does the hole for the coolant level plug open into the pressurized tank? Will I have to fill the hole with RTV or something to prevent loss of coolant?

No. There are the two wires that are the sensor but they come up into a connector opening that is sealed from the coolant in the tank.

 

[tedb]

kmead: it was a real horror show for those affected by the problem.

http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/3005/3093Coolant_Migration.pdf