K20 project off to a good start, volume 2

Ahhhhhh brake porn... I like it too... :D

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Looking great as usual roger
Mind giving me a link or part no. to that air filter it fits so well
Thanks
John
 
Rodger said:
I also started on the exhaust. The base header is a cheapie off of eBay. I went with one for the K20A3 engine as the collector output is 2.5". It seems like all of the K20A2 headers have a 3" output but I plan to use 2.5" components for my system.
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One of the guys from that works at the body shop is going to weld it for me at his own shop. He has a lot of welding experience and can TIG weld stainless. He cut off the flange and the end of the collector to get rid of the connector.
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The tubes need to be tilted up from the way they come to allow the collector to exit through rear firewall opening into the muffler bay. He cut them at about the right angle, but it still took a while with my trusty hack saw and grinder to get the angle just right so he can weld the flange back on.
View attachment 13653
One thing that I did find when I put the flange on the head was that the openings in the flange were about three millimeters too small at the bottom of the openings. I assumed that this would create a fair amount of turbulence and restrict the airflow out so I spent some time grinding them to enlarge the openings to match the exhaust ports.
View attachment 13652

Once I got the angles on the tubes right, I compressed them in a vice to make them more oval shaped like the exhaust ports to get the best outflow.
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Rodger - Thank you for the detailed pics on this. Can you provdie more specific info on the brand of header you bought - I'm seeing one from Meghan Racing, but even that seems a little pricey to be chopped up & reworked. MAybe that is the cheapest though?
 
lookforjoe said:
Rodger - Thank you for the detailed pics on this. Can you provdie more specific info on the brand of header you bought - I'm seeing one from Meghan Racing, but even that seems a little pricey to be chopped up & reworked. MAybe that is the cheapest though?
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i got something for you just need to find them
 
lookforjoe said:
Can you provdie more specific info on the brand of header you bought
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This is the one that I bought. https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-1-SS-RACING-MANIFOLD-HEADER-EXHAUST-02-05-ACURA-RSX-DC5-05-CIVIC-Si-EP3-K20A3/190657374778?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649. I bought this one as the output at the collector was 2.5" which is the size of the exhaust system that I plan to make. I did find that after we cut off the flange, I had to open up the bores to match the exhaust ports on the head. I had bought a similar one a few years ago that was for the K20A2 head that has a 3" collector. The flange openings are bigger so it should match the exhaust ports better than the one I am using. It was about the same price. If you want to buy it, I am glad to get rid of it. $40 and I will include the shipping.
 
Rodger said:
I had bought a similar one a few years ago that was for the K20A2 head that has a 3" collector. The flange openings are bigger so it should match the exhaust ports better than the one I am using. It was about the same price. If you want to buy it, I am glad to get rid of it. $40 and I will include the shipping.
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Thanks Roger
Sounds like a plan. I'll PM you on that.
 
lookforjoe said:
Rodger - another question for you - who did you source the Honda boot kits from? I'm assuming the inner CV came with the motor/trans - or did you buy those separately? I'm going to have to source those for mine
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My engine/transaxle was from a Northwest car (I bought the whole car, so I had all the parts I needed), so the engine was pretty dirty and all the aluminum had the typical oxidation. I took everything off that I could unbolt short of the head and lower crankcase. I replaced every gasket and o-ring as I did not want any leaks after I cleaned and repainted everything. Honda uses a silicone material (Hondabond) for things like the oil pan instead of a gasket so I redid any of those joints as well. I also put in a new water pump, rebuilt starter and aftermarket rebuilt alternator so I would not need to worry about those parts for a while. I bought most of the parts from Acurapartsnow.com. Seemed like good prices and they had all the little bits that I wanted, but I am sure there are other similar sources. Here is the link for the boots for the RSX Type S. https://www.acurapartsnow.com/auto-...engine/chassis-cat/driveshaft-half-shaft-scat. Buy the inboard kits as they come with the boots, clamps, snap rings, and the Honda inner CV joint lube that is unique for their inner CV.
 
lookforjoe said:
Rodger - another question for you - who did you source the Honda boot kits from? I'm assuming the inner CV came with the motor/trans - or did you buy those separately? I'm going to have to source those for mine
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If you want the inner CVs, you can get them off Amazon on the cheap as well:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C6N0A2C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C6N0IWY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
Rodger said:
I used Russell ProClassic II -6 AN hose from Summit Racing. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-632075. There are several brands available that look similar. It is a black nylon braided hose with internal braided stainless bonded into the liner. They say it can be used for fuel, oil, or antifreeze. The nylon does have a shiny, clean appearance that I really like. You can definitely see the difference if you compare it to the standard braided hose shown on the picture I posted of the underside connections to the fuel tank. I already had some of that larger standard braided hose on hand that I had bought from MWB a few years ago when I did my carb to FI conversion on my '79, so I just used that for the supply line from the tank to the fuel filter to the fuel pump, as it is not a pressurized line.

When I bought the fuel rail from Hybrid Racing, I had also bought their tucked fuel line kit, that came with three pre-made -6 AN black braided hoses. Of course, it was intended for a swap into a Civic, or something like that, so the lengths weren't quite right for what I needed. The Russell hose looked to be a match for what they used, so I bought another 10 feet from Summit Racing along with a couple of fittings that I needed. I took apart the hoses I got from Hybrid Racing and used the fittings to make my own custom hose set. I used the pieces from the Hybrid set to make a lot of the evaporative system hoses. If you look at the above photo of the fuel pressure regulator before I connected the fuel lines to it, you can see the original rubber hoses that I had used to make the evaporative system. Once I had the fuel lines in and how nice they looked, I had to change the evaporative lines to match. Fortunately, I had just enough hose to make it. Total, I probably used about 16 feet of hose, with the 10 feet I bought and what came in the Hybrid kit.
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More questions, sorry :D

Does one need a modified fuel rail? Or is it for aesthetics?
 
lookforjoe said:
More questions, sorry :D

Does one need a modified fuel rail? Or is it for aesthetics?
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One needs a custom/aftermarket rail if you plan to run it with a return line and fuel pressure control which is highly recommended. Buried under the intercooler tube is my k-tuned rail and the FP unit with the gauge attached above the intake air filter.

PNpCadPaY3ceP6UUQLOiHlVWebBaF_cXNxoNrO5bW6ISVyM26ev9CvkR28cu1o9G59T2hn_Ts32cjJyS83nw4TgSy-swAc1woav1iQ0k5BLDiSA8jEj3x1oEISO6rj72j5-LOkjTKhlet-7MA646vd36WoMew4AjTwnyhkhhBh6t4JHgxbCLGqMOlz2hTwUqQcQVmtMFeX9NCDGEH1u326bNReBv3E1hb8QtxFLDsgkY18eF3Bc4xNdOq4cH6tcxxqSSYZlg8PQdQN1--C3b-Ud6a-zwuDioH2dHocvlwV2CnNWoutqNyycXq5PzwFrJdInGfhn6y0gUghRvL82a5QGY-YyelFktafe9Y1ROaRwDrsICBooF58W6FuoRf5IFAfrl9cKFjYOCOQikCJSnZSGXJ3NilhqTNWSSCo0r-yvZpT1GJWwFL75E6N2h23gWMqNUw5JWi3wfstk9dq3lGLVfOmYsEnh53o_ucqauDC-fpFWpgNyNzFJFtPPug4pjdhYfnxlvVW0015Y-QLkDwhS7NmTs6Gj0pUsi-1weMK_y_HV15t3YkZL8jNcp-Z9b4ML9w990u046FqGcS7Ga9sIPX9lVXQk=w1023-h575-no
 
lookforjoe said:
More questions, sorry :D

Does one need a modified fuel rail? Or is it for aesthetics?
Click to expand...
You do need to have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator as the Honda one (at least on the Acura RSX) is in the fuel tank. There also has to be a return line to the gas tank that is not on the stock fuel rail. The stock rail can be modified to add a fuel pressure regulator and pressure gauge to set it to 50 lbs of pressure, as well as a return line, or you can buy the aftermarket ones that have all of the fittings built in. Plus the stock fuel rail is not all that attractive so if it is going to be visible and engine bay esthetics are important to you, then the aftermarket ones look much nicer. The one I went with has the option of just a supply line with the return line coming off the regulator that is mounted closer to the gas tank. One less hose to run to the engine.
 
I understand. Since I have already built a return-less fuel delivery system with adjustable pressure regulator for my LH2.2/2.4 conversion, I can use a version of that.

Early version for reference:

X19_LH22_00045.jpg
 
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