patrick garcia
Daily Driver
Does anyone have any good pics of how much i need to cut out so i can shoehorn a k20 motor into my X? Thx Patrick
You took a big chunk out of the driver side frame rail for the transaxle. Did you need to takePost welding phots - hopefully these help.
The shifter linkage as well:Does anyone have any good pics of how much i need to cut out so i can shoehorn a k20 motor into my X? Thx Patrick
I was just looking at my original cuts into the driver side for the trans and I took out even more metal on my first project. On a more recent one, I took out far less metal and managed to get the trans to fit with a decent amount of room. My experience is the torque that moves the engine is front-back, so as long as you give the edge near toward the firewall the room for an up/down force, you are good.When I got my MWB kit and the instructions, photos etc of the cuts for the frame rail where the K20 trans needs to go, I was super conservative for the first fitting. I cut around and inch deep but it wasn't nearly enough. Ended up cutting the entire ... width from in on my setup. So I welded in a much thicker gauge replacement there and a LOT of gussets. I should have taken WAY more photos but of course didn't.
This replacement steel ran all the way up to the existing internal gusset that binds the front engine bay beam, the drivers side wheel well and the drivers side "box section".
Patrick, I agree that it would be very nice to have a guide to tell you how much to cut out, but in the end it comes down to your specific car and the subframe you either bought (MWB or other) or built. My only advice is to *think* about what you're cutting and when replacing the steel, think about the forces the existing metal were designed to deal with. In the end it's fun - makes you feel like a bit of a Bertone designer.
Including a couple of photos of my setup.
Best of luck!
View attachment 9412 View attachment 9413
UPDATE: One of the photos shows only the tack welds. I've also attached a (blurry) pic of the final kit.
Here's some before/middle pics (attached) - hope they help.
I should mention this tho: the one place I've both read about and experienced that doesn't ever show in pictures well is this - when you are cutting the left (US drivers side) frame-rail to make space for the nose cone of the transmission, you really cut out the entire box section (from the inside) to the edge of the inner wheel well. I'll try to find a pic of it... there's one where I found it wouldn't fit and snapped a nice photo.
Otherwise, the info you get from MWB in their kit as well as the other pix available online are pretty good.
Good luck with the build!
Patrick - sorry to hear about the family. Hope you and yours are ok. Can't say much on the weather. We have had our share of rain lately but sunnier days are here.good morning everyone! my project has gotten off to a slow start! death in the family and the weather is not helping! Art the point where I'm about to pull the K20 from my donor car and was wondering what else I'm going to need to remove from the car. wiring harness and the ECU are givens!! anything else I'm going to need Thx Patrick1
Man - I totally forgot about the C101 and E connector. Both are on the donor car harness now - or should be.You will need the body side C101 connector (or you can buy a new one on eBay for $40) and the E connector. If you want cruise control you can remove the switch and the control box and install it relatively easily. You will also need the primary O2 sensor and body side connector.
If you plan on using the stock ECU you will need the Keys, ignition switch, interlock mod and secondary O2s (if you upgrade to a Hondata you wont need them)
(if you upgrade to a Hondata you wont need them)
you mean theres another Arl????? I'm kiddin! here in Taxes i mean Texas!!Haltech is also an option, that's what I am running. The cost is about the same, but I imagine the Hondata probably has a larger user base, and I'm assuming more grass roots support out in the Honda forums.
So Patrick, what Arlington are you in, TX, VA or some other one?
Pete
Thx guy, so dig this i was removing the wiring harness the other day and trying to get to the starter i noticed that a wire was hangin down, come to find out its the knock sensor! i have a 2000 prelude and i put a F20Bin the lude and going to throw the old one away, but i never got around to doin it so it sat in my garage! well low and behold thats the sensor that is broken!!!!!Patrick - sorry to hear about the family. Hope you and yours are ok. Can't say much on the weather. We have had our share of rain lately but sunnier days are here.
The list:
Engine/Trans
Engine side harness (ECU to TB, injectors, etc.,
The inner CVs if they are in good condition, otherwise get them here:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C6N0IWY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C6N0A2C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Try to get ALL of the sensors with the engine and keep them from breaking. They add up.
Look for the ODB2 plug and try to save it with cables. It will come in handy when you it's not easy to get to your ECU for CEL comes on for any codes.
The charging harness is worth keep handy, but you may not use it.
Brayden, Darin - what am I missing?
the Hondata is the way to go then!!well its settled! Hondata it is!You will need the body side C101 connector (or you can buy a new one on eBay for $40) and the E connector. If you want cruise control you can remove the switch and the control box and install it relatively easily. You will also need the primary O2 sensor and body side connector.
If you plan on using the stock ECU you will need the Keys, ignition switch, interlock mod and secondary O2s (if you upgrade to a Hondata you wont need them)