Performing Honda K24a3/AST5 6spd Conversion
- Thread starter lookforjoe
- Start date
lookforjoe
True Classic
The Fiat one. K-Tuner is supposed to have the immobilizer disabled - perhaps they didn't do so. I posted on their forum as well.
rx1900
1981 X1/9
Ahh...you will figure it out.
Start with the basics. Your ECU likely requires 2 or 3 pins each of battery power, ignition switched power, and grounds. Double check all of those are hooked up correctly.
If all okay there....check if your ECU has an immobilizer circuit built in. Are you using a US market or JDM ECU ? If it does...that might be a bugger to overcome. It aint easy. Hopefully...your K Tuned unit has the capability to bypass it. If so.. you should be able to have the option to turn on/turn off the immobilizer with the software.
And....sounds silly...but have you tried hooking up an OBD2 reader to see if that might tell you something ??
Start with the basics. Your ECU likely requires 2 or 3 pins each of battery power, ignition switched power, and grounds. Double check all of those are hooked up correctly.
If all okay there....check if your ECU has an immobilizer circuit built in. Are you using a US market or JDM ECU ? If it does...that might be a bugger to overcome. It aint easy. Hopefully...your K Tuned unit has the capability to bypass it. If so.. you should be able to have the option to turn on/turn off the immobilizer with the software.
And....sounds silly...but have you tried hooking up an OBD2 reader to see if that might tell you something ??
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lookforjoe
True Classic
Thanks for the feedback, it helps clarify my process. It's US market ECU. K-tuner does have it in software settings, unlike K-Tuned where an add-on module is required, looking at their website. Of course, my ASUS tablet that I use only for car-related software (being primarily a Mac user) has decided to lock itself in whatever boot utility it comes with, so I can't access my software or account.
I have an older Toshiba laptop, I may have to switch the K-tuned account registration to that device. I only use that one for Volvo VIDA software/diagnosis as it has to run an older OS for that. That one has a battery that only lasts about an hour not connected to power
I'll check all the primary power/ground I/O tonight to confirm those, which will leave only immobilizer (or dead ECU).
I also haven't hooked up the OBDII port yet, that is the last wiring item. I'll do that too, but I don't expect it to show anything since the ECU is not powering up (I believe). Thanks again for the tips.
lookforjoe
True Classic
Tablet is dead, have to send it in for repair. This means I can't access the software or tune I loaded into the ECU.
I found some screenshots I took back in 2018 when I set it up - this one shows the immobilizer disabled.
So, it looks like I did set it to disable. That's bad news, since the ECU is acting like it's disabled/locked : no switched power to E9 via C201:12, or coil relay output (C201:13)
I'll have to remove the EMS relay box to get the ECU out, then I can check to see if I'm getting switched power to A2 & A3. Not hopeful, since I'm pretty sure those are fed the same way, switched contingent on something else...
Finished the ODBII port wiring & location of port - just have to set terminal locations (couldn't remember sequence at the time) 04, 05 = (-) 16=(30) 07=kline 12=WEN. 1-8 wide row, 9-16 narrow row
EDIT - Think I found it! Went over the circuit wiring diagrams again. Found that the (15) feed that goes to E9 is supposed to come from the same fuse that feeds the f/pump relay 30, not the ouput side of the main relay, which somehow is where I put it. No way it will ever energize like this. Not sure how I got such an error, but that is definitely the case, looking at my wiring diagram/pinout schematics.
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lookforjoe
True Classic
added the extra wire from the F/Pump relay feed fuse to E9 circuit, and it's all good! Ran it for just long enough to set the fuel pressure to 50psi and that was about it.
Only ran it for some seconds - the garage had to be wide open at both ends as the hose would not stay on the exhaust pipe. Have two minor cooling leaks (water housng gasket I didn't bother changing, and pin hole in heater hose off T/stat exension housing) to address. No oil or other fluid leaks that I could see
Tach works, etc. Have to set some parameters in K-Tuner, as the idle surged after start idle mode. I read that the TPS has to be calibrated in the software, so need to look into that.
Replaced 6pole ts090 with a 10pole (easternbeaver.com) so I could keep the additional wiring integrated
ODBII port is wired
Got more of the proper latex, still laminating the driver's mat. Looks good so far
Only ran it for some seconds - the garage had to be wide open at both ends as the hose would not stay on the exhaust pipe. Have two minor cooling leaks (water housng gasket I didn't bother changing, and pin hole in heater hose off T/stat exension housing) to address. No oil or other fluid leaks that I could see
Tach works, etc. Have to set some parameters in K-Tuner, as the idle surged after start idle mode. I read that the TPS has to be calibrated in the software, so need to look into that.
Replaced 6pole ts090 with a 10pole (easternbeaver.com) so I could keep the additional wiring integrated
ODBII port is wired
Got more of the proper latex, still laminating the driver's mat. Looks good so far
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motoTrooper
True Classic
Good use of the latex molding rubber, I like using that for some projects too. Should keep the matts from migrating a whole lot too as it's fairly grippy when dry.
lookforjoe
True Classic
Yes - the worst thing about those mats was that they constantly rode forward under the pedals, and bunched when entering/exiting the car. The added weight & solidity should be a big improvement. Since they are original to the car (dealer supplied?) I'd like to save them for now.
Typically I use the mold builder latex for this type of thing
lookforjoe
True Classic
Not much done today. ECU won't show up in K-Tuner software, so I can't set any tuning parameters.
So, I started on a cover for the EMS wiring in the trunk. Something like this, refined hopefully. Chopped up a wheel arch liner from the S40 AWD parts car. Will be tailored to better fit.
So, I started on a cover for the EMS wiring in the trunk. Something like this, refined hopefully. Chopped up a wheel arch liner from the S40 AWD parts car. Will be tailored to better fit.
kmead
Old enough to know better
Indeed! Where the are backflips and back slaps around this momentous moment????!!!
Big congrats on an amazing job, well done!
lookforjoe
True Classic
finished the S40 wheel arch liner cover for the EMS wiring
secured with one plastic rivet, going into an elbow bracket I added beneath
I'll cover it with carpet
Used another piece to make the fuel sender cover. Needs more work, it's too ugly/plain as is.
made a couple extra heat sheilds from some extra material from the S40. Protects the wiring on this side
and the motor mount and some wiring
Have to add one more sheild for the rear body panel
reworked the heater hose feed elbow, it was sticking out too far & causing the expansion tank hose to hit the shift linkage
all good now
Got all the drivers properly installed - had to reinstall the app with the ECU connected & powered for it to work
changed the injector sizing, but didn't realize the dead times had to be manually set - this is the stock 310cc times
After taking care of the cooling system I started & ran the motor for maybe a minute, and saw that the WBO2 was reading 10 (!) so I shut it down.
These are the dead times for the 410cc RDX injectors I should have switched to before running it
I'll reload the tune tomorrow, hopefully it'll be all good now.
secured with one plastic rivet, going into an elbow bracket I added beneath
I'll cover it with carpet
Used another piece to make the fuel sender cover. Needs more work, it's too ugly/plain as is.
made a couple extra heat sheilds from some extra material from the S40. Protects the wiring on this side
and the motor mount and some wiring
Have to add one more sheild for the rear body panel
reworked the heater hose feed elbow, it was sticking out too far & causing the expansion tank hose to hit the shift linkage
all good now
Got all the drivers properly installed - had to reinstall the app with the ECU connected & powered for it to work
changed the injector sizing, but didn't realize the dead times had to be manually set - this is the stock 310cc times
After taking care of the cooling system I started & ran the motor for maybe a minute, and saw that the WBO2 was reading 10 (!) so I shut it down.
These are the dead times for the 410cc RDX injectors I should have switched to before running it
I'll reload the tune tomorrow, hopefully it'll be all good now.
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kmead
Old enough to know better
Used a S40 wheel arch liner to make a cover for the EMS wiring
secured with one plastic rivet
I'll cover it with carpet
made a couple extra heat sheilds from some extra material from the S40
Have to add one more sheild for the rear body panel
reworked the heater hose feed elbow, it was sticking out too far & causing the heater hose to hit the shift linkage
all good now
Got all the drivers properly installed - had to reinstall the app with the ECU connected & powered for it to work
changed the injector sizing, but didn't realize the dead times had to be manually set - this is the stock 310cc times
After taking care of the cooling system I started & ran the motor for maybe a minute, and saw that the WBO2 was reading 10 (!) so I shut it down.
These are the dead times I should have switched to before running it
I'll reload the tune tomorrow, hopefully it'll be all good now.
Nice work, unfortunately looks like you inserted the same image for the dead times.
Sorry I don’t understand the concept of dead times, could you provide some more background for us?
autox19
True Classic
The time required for the injectors to begin to open is referred to as 'Injector Dead Time”. The injector dead time is dependent upon several variables such as the characteristics of the actual injector itself, plus external influences such as fuel pressure and particularly supply voltage
Pretty generic term. I had high rpm issues until i adjusted mine. Was trial and error starting with what was recomended. Then moved it one way, it got worse. Then went the other and the miss went away
Odie
autox19
True Classic
What do they call it? All the aftermarket injectors i looked at have the deadtimes listed. I was amazed on how much it effected things. When i was told to adjust it i thought they were crazy.
Odie
lookforjoe
True Classic
Thank you Karl. I was so happy it started right up I forgot all about my concern that the header flange would leak due to the warpage from re-welding the runners, however that seems to be OK.
I think the others have covered deadtimes/latency as much as I know about them. From experience with the old wagon I just know that having the correct values for any given injector is critical. They are not always published. I was going to switch to 1600cc Bosch injectors on that, as I was running over 80% duty cycle on the 1000cc's I had in it, but couldn't find the latency values listed anywhere.
I really don't understand the correlation between voltage, time in ms & fuel pressure besides that one needs the correct values or everything else will be skewed.
autox19
True Classic
so here is what I understand about the 3. Voltage. the nore voltage, the quicker it can open. so the ECU needs to know at what voltage how long does it take to open. Fuel pressure. the more fuel pressure, the quicker it will open, so once again the ECU needs to know this top make sure it opens at the right time. This is my UNDERSTANDING. it may not be right, but it does make sense.
I have learned quite a bit from Evans tuning. I wish I still had the subscription as he was VERY quick to answer questions like these. but $50 a month, I unsubscribed during winter when I havent been able to drive the car anyway. I would recommend him 100% if he teaches on what you are tuning with. he does quite a few systems as well as the basics. you get access to all the past vids which include the basics of each tuning systems as well as he does full vids on dyno tunes and how/why he does what.
I have also found out that there is sometimes a little PFM (pure F**king magic) when it comes to tuning. LOL. really the more I play, the more I learn. as long as I have the limits set correctly and have a warning light for knock, he sad I am pretty safe with playing around.
Odie